Old Skool Retro PJ - UK

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Hello chaps, first off id like to thank DJ homes for his help, and also procode for his contribution 😉


I started off with an old skool PJ and a CMV CT529a tft and a 250watt mh kit. unfortunately i dropped the tft and the ribbons on the side had torn and i had dodgy lines all over the show 🙁

anyhow i bought a iiyama e380s, and i CAN confirm its the exact same insides as the CT529a, and pretty much the same specs 😛.

A little warning to noobs like me 🙂 do not put a piece of wood under the bulb, as it will burn it (see piccies).

i know have my pj hooked up to my 360, this pj does take up a fair bit of space, but its not bad in pitch black.

i have pics, but there not great or in focus. Plus my wall is currently peach, and i need to get some whiteboard or something to get the proper colours.

anyhow, im not completely confident that my wires are 99% safe, could some1 pleez tell us, if anything will get burnt or anything like that, i have moved bits from b4, like the capicitor to the corner, same with the ZRM. will the wires be ok? and not melt allowing the wires to touch the case? the bottom of the pj case does get prettty hot,(i can put my finger there and leave it. so its not burning) is this normal?

ill try n get more pics of ingame action 🙂



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Hi Mr Pink, all i can think that you need is some kind of reflector under the bulb, this will increase brightness by probably two times what you have now as you are loosing half the light from the lamp due to there not being one!
Even a piece of a foil carton like what you get rice in from the indian might help reflect more light through the fresnels, giving a brighter picture!
Might not help though, but would'nt hurt to try!
D2D

P.S. have you no cooling inside your OHP?
If it works ok, maybe you dont need it!
The box thing you have on the lens, hanging down, dont think it is necessary, as i had one and all it did was obscure my view of the screen, so i removed it, and the picture is the same.
Try making some shielding for the vents in the front of the OHP to stop light escaping from the front hitting the screen, the makers of OHP's dont seem to take this into consideration. 🙂
D2D
 
Thanks for the info dust,

ive played the 360 with the pj for about an hour and ecerything seemed ok, the bottom part of the case was hot but nothing scorching or out, and the ballast remained warm quite some time after that.
so the outside cooling seems fine, but ive got some 80mm fans ordered, which ill attemt a usb mod to. one will be ontop flowing air ontop/bottom of the panel, and one inside infront ventilation, to alow the airflow again.

the reason for that box thing is because this pj lights thw whole room up, even if its pitch black, even when ppl come in, there like y havent u turned the lights off. ill have to get some black duck tape and cover up the wholes like you suggested 🙂

ill give the curry contaner a try and see if i get any improvements

ill report back after me usb speakers arrive as i wont need an extra plug.
 
Hi again Mr Pink, NO! dont cover the air vents! make a cover that allows the air to get in, but blocks the light from leaving the OHP front.
I had to make a box with three sides, leaving the bottom clear so that air can still get in the front of my OHP, as the vents where casting three bright lines on the screen.
When i covered the vents, the OHP shut the lamp down, as it has a temperature probe near the lamp and covering it up caused the OHP to shut the lamp off after only a short time! (less than a minute!)
Ventilation is very important, you dont want to melt your Fresnel lens!
Have you no old PC's? even an old 486 has got some good fans inside it, the power supply has a good one.
Check out our site, diy cinema
We have a lot of info, and are happy to help anyone!
D2D
 
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