Hello guys! I’m having a pair of vintage Saba qx30k that I like very much ,for close listening ,paired with an Cyrus one and I was thinking , being that old should I rebuild the crossover? Also I have little idea on crossover design and you migh tell me what parts do I need.thank you!
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As rayma has said, the 15 uF capacitors are likely to be bipolar electrolytic types and would benefit from replacement.
Add your country of origin and we will be better placed to suggest a supplier of suitable replacements.
Here's an example of what you need (UK supplier): https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/mundorf...pacitors/15-fd-ecap100-electrolytic-capacitor
The inductors (L) will not require to be replaced if your speakers are currently working satisfactorily.
This one?
Tweeter looks like the widespread budget small Audax tweeter which suggest the XO is also mad eof budget parts. I note that the n=magnet size siuggests it might not be.
Can you post a pic of the XO? From the diagram you posted a 2nd order electrik XO.
dave
Tweeter looks like the widespread budget small Audax tweeter which suggest the XO is also mad eof budget parts. I note that the n=magnet size siuggests it might not be.
Can you post a pic of the XO? From the diagram you posted a 2nd order electrik XO.
dave
I leave in România,I can order on farnell or digikeyView attachment 1300921
As rayma has said, the 15 uF capacitors are likely to be bipolar electrolytic types and would benefit from replacement.
Add your country of origin and we will be better placed to suggest a supplier of suitable replacements.
Here's an example of what you need (UK supplier): https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/mundorf...pacitors/15-fd-ecap100-electrolytic-capacitor
The inductors (L) will not require to be replaced if your speakers are currently working satisfactorily.
If it sounds fine...and the caps look OK to me...I'd just leave it be and enjoy. Those electrolytics are good quality units and are probably just fine, but if you have access to a good capacitance meter it never hurts to check...you would need to disconnect one of the leads on each cap to get valid readings though. I don't see the resistor "R35" in the pictures so I wonder if it is actually there? Inductors rarely ware out or fail, so it is probably OK too.
Mike
Mike
Michael could be right. In any case, I'd just run through some options at Farnell and Digikey so I'll post the links..
https://ro.farnell.com/multicomp/mcnp63v105m5x11/cap-1-f-20/dp/1236677
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cornell-dubilier-illinois-capacitor/475BPA100M/5412668
https://ro.farnell.com/multicomp/mcnp63v105m5x11/cap-1-f-20/dp/1236677
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cornell-dubilier-illinois-capacitor/475BPA100M/5412668
These electrolytics aren'r even bipolar, but polarized ones! I've seen things like that rather often and continue scratching my head what the designer might have been thinking. Replace them by non polarized electrolytics or better foil types. Motor run capacitiors will serve wel and are relatively cheap.
Best regards!
Best regards!
I don t mind the price , I have like 4 caps and 2 resistors , meaning the expensive one are not that expensive so I can buy the better ones, also I might redo all the wires and joints, to pun off and a little more thick ones , and also my make DIN plugs are not that great, any ideea how those are named? They look like this.
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These are also DIN speaker plugs, mainly intended for car radios, where space behind the dashboard may be tight.
Best regards!
Best regards!
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These speakers are buyed from a well regarded speaker manufacturer, he says that the tweeter design in this specific speakers are a very very good model and a inspiration for some of his designs. I don’t know, on low medium levels they sound pretty accurate , the midrange driver is nothing special. I had some studio monitors lsr and focal and these things sound more natural to me . I can also put a dsp on the chain and correct for room.
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