Hello my friend,
I posted this answer on the other thread of ours..
Believe it or not the the bigger you go with the cylinders, ex Janus 50, 70 the more you accentuate the high frecvency response and flatten the rest.. A bigger influence factor is the contact between the coil and the membranes. The more weight you add to the cylinders you lose efficency.
To lose more of your impedance peaks, you have to make an overhung coil structure.. If it is underhung, and the magnetic gap isnt large enought and the mebranes arent stiff enought to keep the coil in the gap, the coil goes out of the gap, gets hot and the impedance goes higher at that time...
The solution is a clever overhung design with a bigger gauge or continue in undergung design by using a smaller diameter wire and tighten the elastics that centeres the coil in the gap so that the coil remains in the gap all the time.
Look at the elastics from the two pictures bellow:
This elastic smart "trick" will keep the coil centered in the gap, linearise the impedance, and get rid of some nasty resonances. The elastic is tighten in two points on the chasis here and one point on the cylinders...
And now look at the picture bellow :
As you can see the elastic is tighten in one point not in two points (like in the two pictures above) on the chasis and lets the coil move freely in the gap.. If in this third pic the magnets arent strong enought or if it isnt overhung design it will have impedance peaks just like you have.
Please keep this in mind.
Cheers
Sergiu
I posted this answer on the other thread of ours..
Believe it or not the the bigger you go with the cylinders, ex Janus 50, 70 the more you accentuate the high frecvency response and flatten the rest.. A bigger influence factor is the contact between the coil and the membranes. The more weight you add to the cylinders you lose efficency.
To lose more of your impedance peaks, you have to make an overhung coil structure.. If it is underhung, and the magnetic gap isnt large enought and the mebranes arent stiff enought to keep the coil in the gap, the coil goes out of the gap, gets hot and the impedance goes higher at that time...
The solution is a clever overhung design with a bigger gauge or continue in undergung design by using a smaller diameter wire and tighten the elastics that centeres the coil in the gap so that the coil remains in the gap all the time.
Look at the elastics from the two pictures bellow:
This elastic smart "trick" will keep the coil centered in the gap, linearise the impedance, and get rid of some nasty resonances. The elastic is tighten in two points on the chasis here and one point on the cylinders...
And now look at the picture bellow :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As you can see the elastic is tighten in one point not in two points (like in the two pictures above) on the chasis and lets the coil move freely in the gap.. If in this third pic the magnets arent strong enought or if it isnt overhung design it will have impedance peaks just like you have.
Please keep this in mind.
Cheers
Sergiu
The original thread is located hear. 😉
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...on-speaker-different-kind-27.html#post4344025
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/plan...on-speaker-different-kind-27.html#post4344025
i did that with the resistor used to calibrate the setup 🙂, but nevermind an ADmin may close this thread. sorry for making a mess 🙂
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