I have a pair of MartinLogan Summits, which has 2 powered woofers (one in front, one on bottom). One of my pairs seems to have a dead woofer in front. But it measures flatter in my room according to REW.
Is it okay to disconnect the other front woofer in the "good" speaker? Will that cause any issues with the onboard woofer amp in the long run?
Is it okay to disconnect the other front woofer in the "good" speaker? Will that cause any issues with the onboard woofer amp in the long run?
Do you mean permanent damage by issues? I don't think so.
Though if it's some kind of push pull configuration (I believe they could be as the 'x' model ML are) bass will drop off significantly, minus half the setups function.
Those look nice, not to mention pricey, I would really rather track down the problem with the dead woofer and set it right $0.02.
Though if it's some kind of push pull configuration (I believe they could be as the 'x' model ML are) bass will drop off significantly, minus half the setups function.
Those look nice, not to mention pricey, I would really rather track down the problem with the dead woofer and set it right $0.02.
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Yes I mean permanent damage to the amp or internals.
Regarding my Summits, my panels had lost most of its volume after many years (as electrostat panels do) and I had the panels rebuilt by Russ Knotts instead of buying new panels from ML (which would've cost close to $3K including shipping to Asia). The rebuilt panels work "ok" but has quite a lot lower volume, which makes the speakers boomy. The speaker actually sounds more balanced across frequencies without the front woofer. I rarely use these speakers so it's not too big a deal to me.
Since one of the front woofers appear to have died I thought I may want to disable the other. I can also get the woofer repaired easily here, assuming it's the voice coil. But then I would end up with boomy speakers again with the rebuilt stat panels at a lower volume.
Regarding my Summits, my panels had lost most of its volume after many years (as electrostat panels do) and I had the panels rebuilt by Russ Knotts instead of buying new panels from ML (which would've cost close to $3K including shipping to Asia). The rebuilt panels work "ok" but has quite a lot lower volume, which makes the speakers boomy. The speaker actually sounds more balanced across frequencies without the front woofer. I rarely use these speakers so it's not too big a deal to me.
Since one of the front woofers appear to have died I thought I may want to disable the other. I can also get the woofer repaired easily here, assuming it's the voice coil. But then I would end up with boomy speakers again with the rebuilt stat panels at a lower volume.
Are you sure it's the woofer?
Just as you know each woofer is powered by its own amplifier and it could also be the cause (a fuse?).
If loudspeakers were mine I would check first because the woofer seems failed and then I would restore everything like the original design (amp or woofer).
Then you can always adjust the low frequencies with the 2 potentiometers related to the two bands of adjustable low frequencies to try to restore sound balance, or by positioning the loudspeakers differently within the limits of your possibilities of space.
Just as you know each woofer is powered by its own amplifier and it could also be the cause (a fuse?).
If loudspeakers were mine I would check first because the woofer seems failed and then I would restore everything like the original design (amp or woofer).
Then you can always adjust the low frequencies with the 2 potentiometers related to the two bands of adjustable low frequencies to try to restore sound balance, or by positioning the loudspeakers differently within the limits of your possibilities of space.
Here are some measurements. The Summit's crossover is at 270Hz. Red is the "good" speaker with both woofers working. Green is the "bad" speaker with only the bottom-firing woofer working. As you can see it is a lot flatter. The ultimate issue is that my rebuilt panels are putting out a lot less volume than they should which is causing the imbalance, but I'm not willing to fork out $3K to replace them at this time (this system is in my bedroom which I very rarely use).
The 2 pots at the back allow you to adjust 25Hz and 50Hz. The blue line below is with both pots at their minimum, -10dB. As you can see it doesn't help much as 80Hz to 300+Hz is still too high.
The "bad" speaker (green line) seems reasonably flat so I'm wondering if I should just disable the front woofer on the "good" speaker also. Just want to make sure it's not going to cause any damage to the amp or internals if I simply unplug it.
The 2 pots at the back allow you to adjust 25Hz and 50Hz. The blue line below is with both pots at their minimum, -10dB. As you can see it doesn't help much as 80Hz to 300+Hz is still too high.
The "bad" speaker (green line) seems reasonably flat so I'm wondering if I should just disable the front woofer on the "good" speaker also. Just want to make sure it's not going to cause any damage to the amp or internals if I simply unplug it.
What happens if I've an amp ON and nothing connected?
Electric energy consumption only, I don't think the amplifier may be damaged at all.
However it is much more rational to detach the amps. IMO
Electric energy consumption only, I don't think the amplifier may be damaged at all.
However it is much more rational to detach the amps. IMO
Does it still consume the same current? Seems like it should not since there is no load connected?
Without the load of louspeakers no current should run.
However there are active parts with a reduced elecric energy consumption compared to driving loudspeakers.
If you detach the 2 woofers no damage there generally is for the 2 amps, but I would always detach the amps, even if it is difficult to do, just as a matter of principle.
However there are active parts with a reduced elecric energy consumption compared to driving loudspeakers.
If you detach the 2 woofers no damage there generally is for the 2 amps, but I would always detach the amps, even if it is difficult to do, just as a matter of principle.
Before doing any operation on the active loudspeakers please don't forget to detach the power cord from the AC power wall outlet!
And anyway - on second thought - if you really don't feel like doing it, then detaches only the 2 woofers at least as an initial test.
I would not want you to board an operation that you are not sure to safely complete.
And anyway - on second thought - if you really don't feel like doing it, then detaches only the 2 woofers at least as an initial test.
I would not want you to board an operation that you are not sure to safely complete.
I would be suspect of a room issue not the speaker. With the added energy of the second woofer its just enough to make resonance more noticeable.
The more you increase SPL levels the more resonance will rear its ugly head. It seems to me your broke the threshold where it became more noticeable.
Id alter placement slightly, to see that leads in any positive direction. Some well made bass traps are always a good idea. Or a shaggy rug if thats your taste. Or other more efficient absorber.
If the woofers were creating resonance they always will until problem gets adressed.
With both woofers going, excite resonance, then un plug your HF. I'd bet a dollar it will still exist.
Sealed and push/pull are my favorite. Not a snow balls chance I'd be unplugging anything on mine.
The more you increase SPL levels the more resonance will rear its ugly head. It seems to me your broke the threshold where it became more noticeable.
Id alter placement slightly, to see that leads in any positive direction. Some well made bass traps are always a good idea. Or a shaggy rug if thats your taste. Or other more efficient absorber.
If the woofers were creating resonance they always will until problem gets adressed.
With both woofers going, excite resonance, then un plug your HF. I'd bet a dollar it will still exist.
Sealed and push/pull are my favorite. Not a snow balls chance I'd be unplugging anything on mine.