Hi I am busy making speakers as in pic but due to limited space in the design I need to put my mid range port at top of the cabinet on the side (cabinet is wider than it is deep) for adequate clearance to the rear of port.
The lower port for the bass I want to put on the front under the bass driver it won't have enough clearance to back of cabinet either but I have room there to put a 90 degree elbow in it
Is it OK to have a side and front firing port on the same cabinet?
Please ignore marks it has been altered a number of times.
The lower port for the bass I want to put on the front under the bass driver it won't have enough clearance to back of cabinet either but I have room there to put a 90 degree elbow in it
Is it OK to have a side and front firing port on the same cabinet?
Please ignore marks it has been altered a number of times.
Ported midrange?
Am I doing this the wrong way? I have a dividing MDF panel in the cabinet to separate my bass woofer from my mid? I'm not sure if this the correct way to do it? The reason for it was that I was able to do calculations online for each separate compartment. As a result I have both mid and bass ported?
Am I doing it wrong? I would certainly prefer to have my mid
Compartment sealed if that is viable as it would leave me much more room for my ported bass section?
What would be best. How is it normally done?
Regards
Tim
Am I doing this the wrong way? I have a dividing MDF panel in the cabinet to separate my bass woofer from my mid? I'm not sure if this the correct way to do it? The reason for it was that I was able to do calculations online for each separate compartment. As a result I have both mid and bass ported?
Am I doing it wrong? I would certainly prefer to have my mid
Compartment sealed if that is viable as it would leave me much more room for my ported bass section?
What would be best. How is it normally done?
Regards
Tim
Midranges are usually not ported. An aperiodic TL is different. Most mids are in sealed boxes.
The slower roll-off makes the XO easier. Often much easier. Aperiodic also brings flattish impedance but likely won’t go as low.
Also note that MDF is not great speaker building material.
dave
The slower roll-off makes the XO easier. Often much easier. Aperiodic also brings flattish impedance but likely won’t go as low.
Also note that MDF is not great speaker building material.
dave
Ok I will make it sealed thankyou,
I thought mdf was good for speakers due to its even consistency.
What material is best?
I thought mdf was good for speakers due to its even consistency.
What material is best?
MDF’s great “superiority” is a significant achievment of the marketing department. Its only real advantage is it is cheap.
Quality ply is better. The good bamboo plywood is very good.
Now i know good ply is sometimes hard to find in Oz. 17mm hoop pine ply seems most common. Bamboo ply, at least variety, seems much more avaialble in Oz than here, but it is pricey (but that is offset by only the need for clearcoat for finish).
dave
Quality ply is better. The good bamboo plywood is very good.
Now i know good ply is sometimes hard to find in Oz. 17mm hoop pine ply seems most common. Bamboo ply, at least variety, seems much more avaialble in Oz than here, but it is pricey (but that is offset by only the need for clearcoat for finish).
dave
Those speakers are a work of art!
I wish I had known with mine, is there any way I can improve it? The 1 inch thick MDF I used was twice the price of the 18mm. I have a lot of epoxy resin it might soak in a little and increase the surface hardness.
I haven't done the back yet but have some good quality 18mm hardwood ply I could use for that. Would that help?
I wish I had known with mine, is there any way I can improve it? The 1 inch thick MDF I used was twice the price of the 18mm. I have a lot of epoxy resin it might soak in a little and increase the surface hardness.
I haven't done the back yet but have some good quality 18mm hardwood ply I could use for that. Would that help?
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You need to stiffen it. When i last used MDF/HDF i lamenated formica-like stuff on both sides. And bracing. The epoxy resin would work if you can get it to seep fairly deeply into the MDF without causin git to blow up (expand).
A 15mm quality ply panel will outperform an 18mm MDF panel.
dave
A 15mm quality ply panel will outperform an 18mm MDF panel.
dave
It’s not the surface hardness of MDF that is its main sonic detriment, but rather its much lower stiffness per unit of weight compared to quality plywoods. Depending on the particular brand / grade, the face of some MDF panels are essentially tempered by the heat /pressure processor fabrication, and speaking from experience, I can attest are hard enough that with sharpest of woodworking tools can take a beveled edge keen enough to cut like a knife; then 1or 2 mm below that face can be soft enough to score with a thumbnail.
Those PAWOs seem like a lifetime ago.
Those PAWOs seem like a lifetime ago.