30, maybe 40 watts. The 6 1/2 " may be more robust than the poor little 4" Aiwa's, but then you'll probabaly just fry the tweeter. Unless you turn it down, of course.
That's essentially what limiters are for. You can dial it in for the speaker and application, regarldess if the amp is higher power. In a real professional setup, the amps are usually over powered for headroom and to keep them comfortable by not running them too hard. The signal is peak limited to keep woofer excursion safe, and RMS limited at a lower power to respect the drivers' thermal capacity.
Limiting by intentionally undersizing the amp shifts the burden from the speaker to the amp. You only really want to do that if you run an impedance where the amp is loafing - like running a 2 ohm capable amp at 8 ohms. You can clip it all night.
i forgot to attach pics on my last comment 😀
there are 4 tweeters on this speaker setup. the main middle 5cm directly connected to woofer using 4.7uf(forgot actual value) is both busted on left and right due to insect/bug eating the cone.
the 3 othe tweeters are connected in series, like this: left cone tweeter(8 ohms) -> piezo tweeter with 1uf parallel caps -> right cone tweeter(8 ohms). no label as to what wattages they are though even on the internet.
http://donlife.ru/upload/normal/tolyatti-kolonki_Sony_SS-L90VH_20520.jpeg
there are 4 tweeters on this speaker setup. the main middle 5cm directly connected to woofer using 4.7uf(forgot actual value) is both busted on left and right due to insect/bug eating the cone.
the 3 othe tweeters are connected in series, like this: left cone tweeter(8 ohms) -> piezo tweeter with 1uf parallel caps -> right cone tweeter(8 ohms). no label as to what wattages they are though even on the internet.
http://donlife.ru/upload/normal/tolyatti-kolonki_Sony_SS-L90VH_20520.jpeg
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those 3" magnets might have room for a 1" voice coil, but more likely to be around 3/4" V.C.
10W to 20W of continuous power if tested to professional standards.
But that does not restrict the operator to using a 10W to 20W amplifier.
Speakers can tolerate enormous overload when the signal is of very short duration. This is the only reason a tweeter survives.
Music naturally has transient peaks.
One should use an amplifier and a speaker that can reproduce those peaks without clipping.
Many professional speakers recommend an amplifier twice the rated speaker power.
You could easily use a 50W chipamp with domestic speakers using a 3/4" V.C.
You can safely use amplifiers at double (and more) the speaker's continuous rating. Remember what I said:
10W to 20W of continuous power if tested to professional standards.
But that does not restrict the operator to using a 10W to 20W amplifier.
Speakers can tolerate enormous overload when the signal is of very short duration. This is the only reason a tweeter survives.
Music naturally has transient peaks.
One should use an amplifier and a speaker that can reproduce those peaks without clipping.
Many professional speakers recommend an amplifier twice the rated speaker power.
You could easily use a 50W chipamp with domestic speakers using a 3/4" V.C.
You can safely use amplifiers at double (and more) the speaker's continuous rating. Remember what I said:
The operator sets volume to minimise the risk of clipping and audible distortion.
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Speaker ratings are very misleading to say the least. I still have a pair of Altec Lansing Model 9's that I purchased new in 1976. They were rated at 60 watts continuous using pink noise and were recommended for amplifiers between I believe 12 watts and 250 watts.
During the first year of operation I found out that using a Pioneer SA8500 which was rated at 60 watts resulted in me loosing a pair of midranges and one woofer. The speakers were repaired under warranty and I was saved the cost. I learned that in my case I was clipping the amp and causing the problems. I upgraded to a 200 watt per channel amplifier and never had another problem again. I'm not saying this is going to be the solution for everyone but in my case having more power resulted in no more damage.
Granted I pushed the hell out of my system primarily because I was young and simply wanted loud music. Times have changed .. no longer young and my ears seem to ring from time to time these days. The last 23+ years have been spent on the larger commercial/industrial type systems and I tend to think that more power results in less damage.
During the first year of operation I found out that using a Pioneer SA8500 which was rated at 60 watts resulted in me loosing a pair of midranges and one woofer. The speakers were repaired under warranty and I was saved the cost. I learned that in my case I was clipping the amp and causing the problems. I upgraded to a 200 watt per channel amplifier and never had another problem again. I'm not saying this is going to be the solution for everyone but in my case having more power resulted in no more damage.
Granted I pushed the hell out of my system primarily because I was young and simply wanted loud music. Times have changed .. no longer young and my ears seem to ring from time to time these days. The last 23+ years have been spent on the larger commercial/industrial type systems and I tend to think that more power results in less damage.
"The speaker will survive as long as you never clip your amp" is not always true. 4" full range from a plastic boombox vs. Phase Linear. The PL won - the LED peak meters never went above 60 watts and there were sparks. It wasn't even very loud.
Of course, gross clipping will kill - the "500 watt" 3-way Pioneers played too loud on a QSC Model 41. That went over like a Led Zeppelin (or Hindenburg) - because the result was actual fire and an overheated amp from a shorted VC. That woofer only had a 1.5" VC - so 50-60 watts, tops. Years later I found a similar white cone 12" driver on a dumpster dive, and intentionally tried to burn it out and couldn't. Resorted to 120V/60Hz to finish it off. Actual power capacities can vary quite a bit. If those Pioneers had been equipped with those woofers, they would have survived - but the tweeters would still be toast.
I eventually learned how to build speakers that would take that sort of punishment - I was DJing my way through school and couldn't afford the real stuff at the time. Found that there is a world of difference between what you can buy from McGee and Parts Express and what passes for consumer gear.
Of course, gross clipping will kill - the "500 watt" 3-way Pioneers played too loud on a QSC Model 41. That went over like a Led Zeppelin (or Hindenburg) - because the result was actual fire and an overheated amp from a shorted VC. That woofer only had a 1.5" VC - so 50-60 watts, tops. Years later I found a similar white cone 12" driver on a dumpster dive, and intentionally tried to burn it out and couldn't. Resorted to 120V/60Hz to finish it off. Actual power capacities can vary quite a bit. If those Pioneers had been equipped with those woofers, they would have survived - but the tweeters would still be toast.
I eventually learned how to build speakers that would take that sort of punishment - I was DJing my way through school and couldn't afford the real stuff at the time. Found that there is a world of difference between what you can buy from McGee and Parts Express and what passes for consumer gear.
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