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O2 Front Panel GB Interest

Interested In being a Part of the Group?

  • Yes

    Votes: 81 94.2%
  • No

    Votes: 5 5.8%

  • Total voters
    86
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Do we want to skip boxes, and just order the front panels? I just need to know so I can move forward with them.

Do we just want to order from FPE, and skip ordering from china? Need to get this finalized so we can move on it. Need finalized input!

I've already bought the boxes, so am really only in need of front panels. I'm fine with ordering from FPE.

(I also agree that "12VAC" should be changed to reflect something more technically accurate, e.g., ~15VAC.)
 
One more kick at the cat

I'm not sure what the latest design is, but here's what I had in mind, with some compromises to having more information, while remaining as uncluttered as possible. Since I am building some "desktops"(B3 case), I've also included front and rear panels for them, in case others are interested and we can get the price down. The front panel has the volume control, 1/4" jack and a 4MM hole for a Power LED. The rear panel has the volume control removed, the led hole removed (it still needs to be connected inside since it is part of the circuit) and RCA inputs are added..
 

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Hi guys,

I changed layout a little,
1. an alternative with 12-20vac on it
2. and the little changed old design with 15vac instead of the 12
I myself prefer the old one for the looks.
 

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@Architect: I really like the design.
But, sorry for nitpicking, the symbol before the 15VAC in the second design irritates me a little.
I know it is used for approximate values, but its also the common symbol for alternating current.
And the symbol in the front plus the "VAC" in the back... as an engineer it just doesn't feel right.
Most people should be building their own O2's, so they should know about the input voltage range.
And for those that purchase it, exactly 15V is a good thing to go shopping for.
And for those that build it, but don't RTFM (read the f'in manual)... tough luck. Don't play with stuff you don't understand... ^^
So my recommendation would be either "15 VAC" (maybe better for non-technical people) or the "~15V" (looks nicer, but some might not understand the "~" correctly).

But other than this detail, I'm really liking the design.
Prefer the second (right) one though. The writing looks less imposing and more elegant underneath the connectors.
 
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+1
Jokener makes all good points. Couldn't have said it better. And I hope no one takes any of this as nitpicking. It isn't about that at all. If it is taken as such, then at least consider it worth the bother because the example on the right looks great. A fine job, architect. Thanks for the effort.
 
Just thinking aloud as long as you have not blocked the design.....
"I/O" (or O/I) for me associates with In/Out function. Would On/Off or PWR not be better?
Also, would "In" (rather than "Source") not be more coherent with "Out"?
Anyway, I will be happy with anything you settle for.
Keep up the good work and reserve 2 pieces for me!
Cheers,
Nic
 
@NicMac: Maybe you're right about the In-Out thing.
I just own too many Apple computers and they all have the I/O symbol (though the I sits half inside the O).

The "IN" would actually make more sense with the "OUT", I agree.
Or, if it doesnt end up looking clumsy and cluttered, "Input" and "Output" would do the trick.
And that in turn could lead to using "words" for all labels except the 15VAC (Power, Output, Volume, Gain, Input).
Alternatively, if coherence is a goal: 15VAC, PWR, OUT, VOL, GAIN, IN (all shortened as far as possible/sensible).

Choices, over choices... To be or not to be? What whas the question? 🙂

Regards,
Jokener
 
@Architect: I really like the design.
But, sorry for nitpicking, the symbol before the 15VAC in the second design irritates me a little.
I know it is used for approximate values, but its also the common symbol for alternating current.
And the symbol in the front plus the "VAC" in the back... as an engineer it just doesn't feel right.
Most people should be building their own O2's, so they should know about the input voltage range.
And for those that purchase it, exactly 15V is a good thing to go shopping for.
And for those that build it, but don't RTFM (read the f'in manual)... tough luck. Don't play with stuff you don't understand... ^^
So my recommendation would be either "15 VAC" (maybe better for non-technical people) or the "~15V" (looks nicer, but some might not understand the "~" correctly).

But other than this detail, I'm really liking the design.
Prefer the second (right) one though. The writing looks less imposing and more elegant underneath the connectors.

I'm an engineer too and know that a tilde symbol preceding a value means "approximately." But I would certainly choose "15VAC" over "~15V," which would certainly be confusing.

Minor issues aside, I also very much like architect's design with the lettering below the connectors.
 
Watch out I'm gonna nitpick! 🙂
I/O ("eye-oh") is a computer term. OFF/ON should rightly become O/I.
I've grown to like the horizontal line. With the pushbuttons slightly offset from the other controls, the horizontal line helps put everything "in formation", in an aesthetic sense.
 
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But it's NOT an Off/On switch. It's an On/Off switch.
Because it always has to be turned on first, before it can be turned back off.
And therefore it should be I/O.
(And it was used as an on/off label long before it was used as in-/output.)

Boy are we discussing minuscule details 🙂
I will take whatever turns up in the end...

Regards,
Jokener
 
Are we finally settled on the last one that arch posted? If so, I'll submit the new updated file.

I’m also going to need some help organizing this. Between my pro-bono work and grad school, I seem to have a lot of time, then none at all.

Once we make the order it's 8-days for production, then shipping to everyone.
 
You're on the other end of this little planet of ours, otherwise I'd offer to help you out...
Except if collecting PayPal payments is any help, then I could do that.
(Already did it for the O2 parts GB, so it's nothing new to me.)
Otherwise I could offer to do a little spreadsheet for this GB just like the one in my signature.
But you'd have to send me all the updates, so I don't know how much work it would save you...

Regards,
Jokener
 
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