Hi. Have a read of Troels Gravesen's webpage on updating the crossover for the NS1000. http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Yamaha-NS1000.htm#The New Crossover.
Having listened to the NS1000 for many years, the problems I have is the amount of bass extension, and extension at the top end. Going active will enable you to turn up the bass, but read Troels comment on integration between the woofer and the dome mid. Adding a super tweeter would fix the extension problem. Other than that, the balance of the speaker is very good and very spacious presentation. I like a bit of bass and a sub is what provides the extra at the bottom for me. If you want to get the same level out of the speakers but you want more bass, then the woofer will run out of level before the mid and tweeter. You might not get the same level of dynamics.
Having listened to the NS1000 for many years, the problems I have is the amount of bass extension, and extension at the top end. Going active will enable you to turn up the bass, but read Troels comment on integration between the woofer and the dome mid. Adding a super tweeter would fix the extension problem. Other than that, the balance of the speaker is very good and very spacious presentation. I like a bit of bass and a sub is what provides the extra at the bottom for me. If you want to get the same level out of the speakers but you want more bass, then the woofer will run out of level before the mid and tweeter. You might not get the same level of dynamics.
Thanks for this.
I’d read Troels Gravesens NS1000 before I bought mine, so have absorbed a lot of that already, and understood the shortcomings he’d found, which prompted my initial plan.
The first step is going active on the bass and that should enable better integration and level matching. As you say brining the bass level up to mid level without attenuation.
If that yields good results then I’ll go fully active on the mid to tweeter. Again going active should enable a better integration, eliminating the problems Gravesens has seen. I’ll probably play around with a higher cutoff for the mid too, and that might improve things further.
If all that works well, a new bass driver will be the next step, enabling lower bass and better control.
Your first step will not be easy to get right, and it certainly involves quite a bit of measuring and modelling work. Doing all this is not necessary to go fully active, so I'd say it would be a lot easier to go fully active right away.
The bass driver isn't designed to go low, or handle a lot of power, it's the first driver to show signs of compression as you turn the wick up.
I have RAAL 140-15d in place of the tweeters on mine and its a clear upgrade, heard and measured, flatter response.
I know two people who have gone active on the vass, one uses 1200 Watts of lab grupen class d and PEQ the other swapped the bass driver and went active bass xo, class ab.
I have RAAL 140-15d in place of the tweeters on mine and its a clear upgrade, heard and measured, flatter response.
I know two people who have gone active on the vass, one uses 1200 Watts of lab grupen class d and PEQ the other swapped the bass driver and went active bass xo, class ab.
I think a certain way to improve update ns1000m is an additional wave guide to increase effeiciency, something similar to atc scm75 mid range.
The mid range of ns1000 is around 88/89db, if we could increase around 3db more we can have more matching drivers to play around.
The mid range of ns1000 is around 88/89db, if we could increase around 3db more we can have more matching drivers to play around.
Matching the efficiencies of the different drivers is not important for an active system, where the levels will be very easily matched by a "simple twist on the volume control".
Adding a wave guide will change the dispersion of the driver, resulting in a different dispersion of the entire speaker system. This may be undesired.
Adding a wave guide will change the dispersion of the driver, resulting in a different dispersion of the entire speaker system. This may be undesired.
I've never owned a set of them but I have listened to them enough to ask why would you want to change them>??
If I owned a pair in good condition I might be tempted to add a subwoofer to get the presentation down to 16Hz tho and running the sub over ~2 octaves to about 60Hz
If I owned a pair in good condition I might be tempted to add a subwoofer to get the presentation down to 16Hz tho and running the sub over ~2 octaves to about 60Hz