Sorry if I'm in the wrong forum but my NS-10 preamp has developed a weird issue and was looking for other's thoughts.
When turning it on, the left channel seems to randomly mute for short periods. This seems to solve itself after a minute or so but I'm afraid it will get worse if I don't address it.
I originally thought it was the active crossover I built for my homebrew hybrid ESL/TL design. I replaced that with a dbx Driverack VENU 360 but the problem persisted. Then I changed all the cabling but that didn't work either. I finally replaced the NS-10 with a Stax preamp and the problem disappeared.
I've recapped the electrolytics but that didn't seem to solve the issue (it needed that anyway). My current thought is that it has something to do with the time-delay output suppression circuitry.
Does anyone have schematics or experience with that part of the NS-10?
When turning it on, the left channel seems to randomly mute for short periods. This seems to solve itself after a minute or so but I'm afraid it will get worse if I don't address it.
I originally thought it was the active crossover I built for my homebrew hybrid ESL/TL design. I replaced that with a dbx Driverack VENU 360 but the problem persisted. Then I changed all the cabling but that didn't work either. I finally replaced the NS-10 with a Stax preamp and the problem disappeared.
I've recapped the electrolytics but that didn't seem to solve the issue (it needed that anyway). My current thought is that it has something to do with the time-delay output suppression circuitry.
Does anyone have schematics or experience with that part of the NS-10?
never having one on my bench and never heard about muting circuit in NS-10
which doesn't mean there is no one inside
careful resoldering of all components sometimes is problem solver
which doesn't mean there is no one inside
careful resoldering of all components sometimes is problem solver
What I'm talking about is the turn on when the led blinks for several seconds to let everything become nominal before the outputs become live.
I will say that this thing is built like a tank. To replace the electrolytics, requires removing a gazillion screws, de-soldering the ground and mains power leads and detaching the audio jacks to be able to lift the board enough to safely solder. I was surprised to find that the ICs are in sockets but that was the norm for those days.
I will say that this thing is built like a tank. To replace the electrolytics, requires removing a gazillion screws, de-soldering the ground and mains power leads and detaching the audio jacks to be able to lift the board enough to safely solder. I was surprised to find that the ICs are in sockets but that was the norm for those days.
Success. It took a bit of re-soldering and cleaning the riser contacts to the daughterboard, but it's better than before. Seems that all the years of oxidation took a toll on this unit's sound. I'm hearing a transparency that I feared was lost.