Also, you might be surprised by the sound that comes out of this little turntable. I once had a dual that wasn't much different, and it was a lot of fun.
As others have noted, if the cartridge is ceramic,, un-mount it and throw it directly into the trash. Get a vintage shure M75 (with a fresh needle) and you will be pleasantly surprised.
As others have noted, if the cartridge is ceramic,, un-mount it and throw it directly into the trash. Get a vintage shure M75 (with a fresh needle) and you will be pleasantly surprised.
Realistic was a budget brand from Radioshack I think. Not sure it would count as top-quality but not the bottom of the heap either.She told me he said it was a top-quality, the best available turntable from the early 70s.
Realistic was a private-label brand offered exclusively by Radio Shack.
The Realistic name was applied to a variety of manufacturers' products, such as Audio-Technica cartridges and this Goldring G800 stylus:
The Realistic LAB-12A is featured on the front cover of the 1973 Radio Shack catalogue, where is described as having a "diamond magnetic cartridge and a custom base".
The Realistic name was applied to a variety of manufacturers' products, such as Audio-Technica cartridges and this Goldring G800 stylus:
The Realistic LAB-12A is featured on the front cover of the 1973 Radio Shack catalogue, where is described as having a "diamond magnetic cartridge and a custom base".
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Inside the 1973 cat, the Lab-12A is described as "Our lowest priced 'magnetic' stereo changer package".
The price was $49.95, including a $12.95 "value magnetic cartridge".
According to a U.S. inflation calculator, $50 is now equivalent to just over $350.
Today, just over $350 could buy you the likes of a U-Turn Audio Orbit Plus:
The price was $49.95, including a $12.95 "value magnetic cartridge".
According to a U.S. inflation calculator, $50 is now equivalent to just over $350.
Today, just over $350 could buy you the likes of a U-Turn Audio Orbit Plus:
Thank you, everyone, for all the advice. I really didn't expect to get this many helpful responses.
I was able to find the Youtube videos about servicing the BSR, which I probably wouldn't have found had I not known it was a BSR. I found that the root cause was a stuck cycling cam. No way would I have figured out how to remove that thing without the Youtube video. It was the "Gerrard Glue".
The turntable is well on its way to recovery - probably needs a new cartridge and maybe a new idler wheel. I probably couldn't have gotten this far without you folks!
I was able to find the Youtube videos about servicing the BSR, which I probably wouldn't have found had I not known it was a BSR. I found that the root cause was a stuck cycling cam. No way would I have figured out how to remove that thing without the Youtube video. It was the "Gerrard Glue".
The turntable is well on its way to recovery - probably needs a new cartridge and maybe a new idler wheel. I probably couldn't have gotten this far without you folks!
Provided the rubber on the idler wheel has not gone rock hard and is beginning to crack, it may be sufficient to clean its driving edge with isopropyl alcohol (or Vodka!). If the edge remains shiny and doesn't provide enough purchase when turning the platter, then a gentle rub all round its circumference with fine emery paper may be sufficient to restore its grip. It worked for the idlers in both of my Garrard SP25 Mk2 turntables.
And don't forget, you have that generous offer from @Drbulj in post #12!
And don't forget, you have that generous offer from @Drbulj in post #12!
Best get Byron to post an image of his idler wheel, but this is the one said to be fitted in almost all BSR autochangers:
Hi, I'm so sorry, I actually don't have right part.
Went to quickly open one BSR to confirm so man doesn't wait shipping in vane, it is good OD but bushing is for smaller shaft... I was 100 % sure this was for them (as for what else could it be) but it is for something else.... Bushing could be drilled to right dimension, but guess it's better to get real thing.. This must be avaliable and cheap, BSR was really mass production. Sorry once again 😞
Went to quickly open one BSR to confirm so man doesn't wait shipping in vane, it is good OD but bushing is for smaller shaft... I was 100 % sure this was for them (as for what else could it be) but it is for something else.... Bushing could be drilled to right dimension, but guess it's better to get real thing.. This must be avaliable and cheap, BSR was really mass production. Sorry once again 😞
it is good OD but bushing is for smaller shaft
The dimensions of the idler I illustrated are: outside diameter 40mm, hole diameter 4 mm, overall height 7.6 mm, rubber thickness 2.6 mm.
There's a company in the UK that offers to exchange the customer's old BSR idler wheel for one with a new rubber tyre.
The old grease turned to glue will be most of the work. WD40 works very well to melt all the old grease glue in the mechanisms. Clean all the WD40 off with alcohol before using new grease. Soaking in ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal can restore the rubber pieces.
Have never come across one in the wild with a magnetic cartridge. They always have had a Tetrad. The last BSR I worked on was seized so bad (platter), I had to put a high wattage soldering iron down into the spindle hole and let it bake for a minute. Of course, the whole apparatus had pasty grease in it. It hadn't played a record for 20 years when I got it.
Paraffin is a suitable solvent for old grease, it evaporates away (slowly). WD40 is not designed as a solvent, its a water repellent containing waxes that linger, but its often abused this way(!).
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