I don't think it matters that much if the circuit grounds are isolated from
each other through resistance and/or diodes.
Thanks.
Now with the giant caps I have, it's time to design a new amp layout - a variation of yours of course.
Either you design really great stuff, or I'm too naive to try another's design. Either way, my life is very straightforward.
Oh Yes only the best for Papa amp
Thing is that running the cables troug the case directley to the PCB is even beter
after all you not on the road and once the thing is working it will stay there for a while
at least till the next project is ready.
i use lemos for the signal inputs, already have them on my dac for the twisted pair and coax and i use them on my headphones for portable and at home for great and small balanced cables. these small 1, 2 and 4 pin are not cheap, but quite reasonable for the quality. i draw the line at the larger ones, until i win the lottery; i can get all the functionality without the pretty looks and quick release locking mechanism other ways.
yeah i'll look into hardwiring with grommet and strain relief, but i think i would prefer to be able to pull the plug if something goes crazy.
anyway enough cable talk, think i'm set on single large master psu and 2 x mongrel Alephotron JX 'monoblocks' with localized C with film shunt in the amp cases
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What sort of spark could that create? Hopefully not too much inductance in the path from PS to PA. If your power supply were a constant current design, you could get a nice bolt of lightning...i think i would prefer to be able to pull the plug if something goes crazy.
and its better to let things melt down, or continue to burn with 100% certainty?
obviously protection is better but i would not want a design that cannot be unplugged in an emergency. that would be just like hardwiring something to its wall outlet
obviously protection is better but i would not want a design that cannot be unplugged in an emergency. that would be just like hardwiring something to its wall outlet
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After al is not that you are cutting the competition FM RG278.

Apart from the jokes
By the time that you realise someting is wrong grab the cable and Jank
Woofers be gone

Agree that a plug is more user friendly for moving things around but for protection NTE7100 or such work fine for me.
Yes I know relay in the signal pat but Amplimo got same with 2 sets of contacts Tungsten and gold
Gold open first tungsten takes care of the arching.
Well-known fact when a mosfet goes it goes short circuit.
(Yes I know and my old set of Celestion Ditton knows as well)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/182480-holco-mfr-15ppm-2w-sale.html
Attachments
Speaking of the wall outlet, why can't you just unplug the PSU from the wall? None of the Pass amplifiers have a manual kill switch between the internal PS and the rest of the circuitry, so it doesn't exactly seem like a necessity to be able to pull that link.and its better to let things melt down, or continue to burn with 100% certainty?
obviously protection is better but i would not want a design that cannot be unplugged in an emergency. that would be just like hardwiring something to its wall outlet
Besides, I merely questioned what would happen if you did pull it while it was conducting full power - you'd certainly need a break-before-make type of connector that would not short against anything else in the process of being pulled, or else you'd get the nasty shock instead of your DIY equipment.
pulling the wall outlet from a central psu with many many uf will not do a great deal to stop an immediate problem, there is plenty enough storage to cause issues without anything plugged in anymore. i'm not even talking about saving the speakers, i am also not proposing it as a replacement for proper safety and protection (although this area is controversial, bksabath i had seen your recommendation for amplimo last week thanks for that, i only wish they were easier to obtain) i'm proposing it for a last ditch effort to stop complete destruction or fire if all safety mechs fail and also for reasons of practicality as mentioned above. i just do not like the idea of it, but hey each to his own
Hi qusp
You right of course just my silly jokes.
Fire safety should be built in the component you use
Low allogen vires for smoke emmision main fuses for short circuit situation and so on.
I am particulary scared by the CL60.
(they get realy hot)
On the Amplimo 2 things
1) I was looking for alternatives EG Car relays that handle DC but poor contacts
2) wondering if the issue of DC arking is taken in consideration by the protection circuits sold commercialy and on fleebay.
I am quite luky to be in the UK for a change as Amplimo is relatively close by.
They had enoug free promotion to further comment on delivery and such.
Sorry to quote myself Quote>
I don't have any wish to sell those and if you know a similar or better relay for the job please let me know.
end quote
More than promoting them I was asking if any one know alternative components.
Other option that I am considering is a mosfet to cut the suply and maybe a second one to discharge the caps (crow bar)
As those are switched hard on heat load should be low?
(I am not confident enoug to came up with a viable circuit could You help)
We are crearly talking different aspects of safety isues
1)my selfish way to save the speakers
2)your more than justified concern for your family
From rsdio post clearly the issue of "Lemos" (Or any brand you wish) to disconect DC from suply box to amplifier propper may not be entirely understud (I think that this is a positive and most welcome thing as it rise a discussion on safety)
Yes Papa amp go no fancy Kill switch but they are built and designed by competent engineers they are tested and inspected and have certificate of compliance for healt and safety law internationaly Just the EMF testing cost loads.
Now the stuff that I build has none of this....
1 Thing for shure I will also use same sorth of plug.
You right of course just my silly jokes.
Fire safety should be built in the component you use
Low allogen vires for smoke emmision main fuses for short circuit situation and so on.
I am particulary scared by the CL60.
(they get realy hot)
On the Amplimo 2 things
1) I was looking for alternatives EG Car relays that handle DC but poor contacts
2) wondering if the issue of DC arking is taken in consideration by the protection circuits sold commercialy and on fleebay.
I am quite luky to be in the UK for a change as Amplimo is relatively close by.
They had enoug free promotion to further comment on delivery and such.
Sorry to quote myself Quote>
I don't have any wish to sell those and if you know a similar or better relay for the job please let me know.
end quote
More than promoting them I was asking if any one know alternative components.
Other option that I am considering is a mosfet to cut the suply and maybe a second one to discharge the caps (crow bar)
As those are switched hard on heat load should be low?
(I am not confident enoug to came up with a viable circuit could You help)
We are crearly talking different aspects of safety isues
1)my selfish way to save the speakers
2)your more than justified concern for your family
From rsdio post clearly the issue of "Lemos" (Or any brand you wish) to disconect DC from suply box to amplifier propper may not be entirely understud (I think that this is a positive and most welcome thing as it rise a discussion on safety)
Yes Papa amp go no fancy Kill switch but they are built and designed by competent engineers they are tested and inspected and have certificate of compliance for healt and safety law internationaly Just the EMF testing cost loads.
Now the stuff that I build has none of this....
1 Thing for shure I will also use same sorth of plug.
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