sorry if i posted this in the wrong thread, i did actually try to figure out which one would be best.
i am installing floodlights 30 ft in the air on scaffolding,
the design will look like this
120v floodlight in coercion with motion sensor, to 3 prong outlet
floodlight has 3 wires, white, green, black. (Standard)
motion sensor ill be using is heath zenith HZ-5407-BZ (says it is rated for 500w max)
since our floodlights are 240w and 150w, these should do nicely.
here is the wiring layout on the schematic for the motion sensor,
well i dont have the lamp device that the lights go to, i am wiring my own lights in, so it doesnt exactly tell you how to do this but it said that a switch is recommended, i figured a fuse breaker would be similar to a switch lol so i wouldnt have to install a switch it i didnt want to.
the wires lead to an extension cord which is plugged into an outlet.
on the motion sensor itself, the wires are labeled,
BLACK connect to switched hot wire
WHITE connect to white floodlight wire
RED connect to black floodlightwire.
a schematic of how i should wire this would be extremely helpful on microsoft paint or something, thank you all.
so the wires i have are black green white from standard outlet, and black green white from floodlight, and black white red from sensor,
UPDATE
i ended up trying to figure this out on my own before anyone replied, just looking for confirmation that i did it correctly in microsoft paint below. i dont want to blow any devices or wires!
i am installing floodlights 30 ft in the air on scaffolding,
the design will look like this
120v floodlight in coercion with motion sensor, to 3 prong outlet
floodlight has 3 wires, white, green, black. (Standard)
motion sensor ill be using is heath zenith HZ-5407-BZ (says it is rated for 500w max)
since our floodlights are 240w and 150w, these should do nicely.
here is the wiring layout on the schematic for the motion sensor,
well i dont have the lamp device that the lights go to, i am wiring my own lights in, so it doesnt exactly tell you how to do this but it said that a switch is recommended, i figured a fuse breaker would be similar to a switch lol so i wouldnt have to install a switch it i didnt want to.
the wires lead to an extension cord which is plugged into an outlet.
on the motion sensor itself, the wires are labeled,
BLACK connect to switched hot wire
WHITE connect to white floodlight wire
RED connect to black floodlightwire.
a schematic of how i should wire this would be extremely helpful on microsoft paint or something, thank you all.
so the wires i have are black green white from standard outlet, and black green white from floodlight, and black white red from sensor,
UPDATE
i ended up trying to figure this out on my own before anyone replied, just looking for confirmation that i did it correctly in microsoft paint below. i dont want to blow any devices or wires!
Attachments
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Power is supplied from the outlet to the sensor via white (neutral) and black (live) connections.
Power is supplied from the sensor to the floodlight via white (neutral) and red (switched live) connections.
P.S. Your diagram follows that pattern. And your ground is correct too!
Power is supplied from the sensor to the floodlight via white (neutral) and red (switched live) connections.
P.S. Your diagram follows that pattern. And your ground is correct too!
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Use a solid state relay and proper wires if it is needed long term, extension wires are not durable.
I would use a solid state relay or contactor, with a circuit breaker / fuse.
Oh ... and keep the sensors safe from the weather, along with the connections.
And use the proper procedures and materials for outdoor work, suppose it rains?
I would use a solid state relay or contactor, with a circuit breaker / fuse.
Oh ... and keep the sensors safe from the weather, along with the connections.
And use the proper procedures and materials for outdoor work, suppose it rains?
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⚠️ You say you are a "noob", kon3, so...
I must state that installations such as the one you propose should be carried out and certified by a qualified electrician.
Doing it yourself may violate wiring regulations and make house insurance invalid.
At least, that is the case in the UK.
In the UK you have a legal duty of care for anyone in your home, and if a visitor is electrocuted as a result of electrical work you have done, you can be prosecuted.
Regulations in the USA may differ. Best check.
I must state that installations such as the one you propose should be carried out and certified by a qualified electrician.
Doing it yourself may violate wiring regulations and make house insurance invalid.
At least, that is the case in the UK.
In the UK you have a legal duty of care for anyone in your home, and if a visitor is electrocuted as a result of electrical work you have done, you can be prosecuted.
Regulations in the USA may differ. Best check.
thank you for this, i have decided to call the local building code in my city to figure out the "proper way" of doing this permanently. Thank you
That Heath is rated for full weather exposure and direct control of 500 Watts 120V of lights. (But 500 Watts is a LOT of light in today's world of LEDs?)
Outside Boston, NYC, Chicago, few Inspectors would blink at self-wiring a yard-light. Unless it burned or killed somebody.
IMHO you DO want a switch (or plug) inside the house/barn. It is part of the self-test. It is how you jam the light to burn all night for Solstice joy (or to annoy porcupines too small to trip the sensor). When (not if) the sensor goes bad, you will not want it running all night and all day; switch/plug it off until you get a new sensor. Of course you MUST have a disconnect when you wire, and should power-off for relamping (I been zapped).
It wires just about like the tangled drawing in the manual:
https://heath-zenith.com/system/spr...00/036/977/original/206443-02A.pdf?1565892917
In principle the Ground should tie the sensor and the box(es) too. In this case the sensor is stated to be all-plastic. You can get sturdy (grey, not blue) plastic boxes as "Carlon", and I'd go with that on metal scaffolding.
But I agree-- if you have to ask, hire an experienced wire-guy. Not worth your life, or anybody who may touch the scaffold legs. (May not be grounded to dirt-- rubber wheels/feet.)
Outside Boston, NYC, Chicago, few Inspectors would blink at self-wiring a yard-light. Unless it burned or killed somebody.
IMHO you DO want a switch (or plug) inside the house/barn. It is part of the self-test. It is how you jam the light to burn all night for Solstice joy (or to annoy porcupines too small to trip the sensor). When (not if) the sensor goes bad, you will not want it running all night and all day; switch/plug it off until you get a new sensor. Of course you MUST have a disconnect when you wire, and should power-off for relamping (I been zapped).
It wires just about like the tangled drawing in the manual:
https://heath-zenith.com/system/spr...00/036/977/original/206443-02A.pdf?1565892917
In principle the Ground should tie the sensor and the box(es) too. In this case the sensor is stated to be all-plastic. You can get sturdy (grey, not blue) plastic boxes as "Carlon", and I'd go with that on metal scaffolding.
But I agree-- if you have to ask, hire an experienced wire-guy. Not worth your life, or anybody who may touch the scaffold legs. (May not be grounded to dirt-- rubber wheels/feet.)
very informative, i am sorry but perhaps i did not make myself clear in the original post, i meant i will be installing the light on a building, but i will be on scaffolding to perform the install. (sorry should have been more clear)
your post is excellent!
can anyone chime in at what wires i should use? i was thinking of continuing the 12 gauge with a 12-2 UF romex cable>? or is there possibly another one i could use thats not as expensive and will still get the job done? it will be traveling under siding (so it will get hot and cold, but not wet)
the wires are going under siding, so i dont know about getting or fitting any plastic boxes, i dont have much room at all. i was going to run the wire on the outside under the siding and tuck all the wires, wire nuts underneath the siding.
as for the switch part you say, i figured the main fuse box panel was pretty much like a switch? i honestly am only wiring these lights to dedicate this line only. is that an okay way to get out of wiring a switch in? and if photocell ever goes bad i could just cut the power until its repaired
and if its not okay to rely on the fuse panel and i absolutely must install a switch, can someone please tell me how to wire the switch in>?
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Going by your last sentence I think you should hire a local electrician.
High current AC is not something to play around with and why risk killing somebody.
High current AC is not something to play around with and why risk killing somebody.
Terrible idea. Many roofers and carpenters have been killed by unexpected electricity under siding.
Wires go inside the walls (even if difficult) or in exposed conduit over the siding.
Yes, not audio, should be on an electrical forum. All I have visited would refuse to discuss it because they can't know what you don't know and could do dangerously.
okay thank you on the siding comment, is there anyway i can get thick plastic for conduit instead of typical metal they use? i fear the space for the metal would still be too small, but very very close. something like this ? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...e-Non-Metallic-PVC-Conduit-58046201/203364971
i put all my cash into this building, so at this point, im running on no funds and consider myself to have enough experience to at least perform basic wiring, i just want to double check my wiring is correct and how to perform this in a commercial building appropriately but not expensively.
all my knowledge and experience is with DC voltage and car audio, AC is much much different apparently and i do not know that spectrum.
there is no way to get into the roof, no access, because it was once burned they built another roof ontop of that, so it has a double roof with no roof access.
i would have to circular saw an access space, and even then its possible i could fall through the old roof at any given point, so that is why the easier and safer way would be to run the wires under the siding in my situation, even if i have to force metal conduit under it or if they have difference circumference sizes like half inch that would work way way better.
and i really dont like the look of exposed conduit outside the siding.... there is no way it cannot go under even with conduit? i want things to look...sleek. not sloppy
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This sort of work is best left to properly equipped and licensed electricians. There are real and serious safety concerns involved in this discussion. The thread is closed to further discussion pending moderation action.- Status
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