This is in market place this question.
Are there no manufacturers of amplifiers that are not directed at subs ?
Like you go and build a nice two way Genelec imitation, where would you buy an amp for it? Because i would love to have an amp with variable crossover and tweeter attenuation pre built that will fit in my new 2way speaks.
Are there no manufacturers of amplifiers that are not directed at subs ?
Like you go and build a nice two way Genelec imitation, where would you buy an amp for it? Because i would love to have an amp with variable crossover and tweeter attenuation pre built that will fit in my new 2way speaks.
Hi Madmike,
You want to biamp your 2 way? You want a tunable active xover and two stereo amps then? Power?
You want to biamp your 2 way? You want a tunable active xover and two stereo amps then? Power?
There are full range amps but there normally 2 channel, 5 channel or 5.1. I havent seen off hand a amp like your asking for. A better 4 car amp would have those features but Im assuming your wanting home use. I think active bi-amped systems are usually Pa or like commerical sound products..
I would guess because the average user may not be able to set up a Lpad or crossovers properly for there speakers.
I would guess because the average user may not be able to set up a Lpad or crossovers properly for there speakers.
amplifierguru said:
i think about 50 watts ought to do it and 25 for the tweets. Or do they have to be ballanced per chassis then 50 watts per channel will do although the tweeter will never see that. The woofers are 85 db and tweets are 95 db efficiency. Thus the castrate the tweeter comments on trading post 🙂
I think ApexJr had some suitable modules, or maybe it was a private seller in Trading Post that had some Alesis LM3886 modules with 8th-order crossovers built in.
I think you're vastly overestimating the amount of power needed for tweeters. Even if you crossed at a fairly low 1kHz, you only get perhaps 25% of the total power to the tweeter. Then with a 10dB higher sensitivity you only need 1/10 the power, so with 50W to the woofer you only need ~1.7W for the tweeter!Madmike2 said:
like i said The tweeter will never see that. I dont know if he has to build a 50 50 amp if its 50 watts/chn or it can be 50/20 watts/chn 😀 i know it will not need 50 watts it cant even accept 50 watts as it says 40 watts MAX thermal capacity
richie00boy said:
must go back to their website and check it out again
8th order is like a surgical penis removal 🙁 the higher the order the more need for a processor and the less musical its going to sound.
I am probably stuck with a passive x-over. I just dont know where to begin. L-pad or straight resistors for attenuation. DO i need BSC ? 2k or 2500 it hurts my my pea thinking about it. i am just going to finish assembling them first. The morels are sittingon my desk as i type. so obviously hand made they are beautifully bad. They better sound good or ill be there taking back my donations from Shule.
There IS exactly what you want. A kit expressly intended for bi-amplificatiom. Problem I can't remember the URL.
I know this much --
It's in the EU (.nl ?)
It'd NOT Maplin
It's not Donberg
It;s NOT Farnell
Maybe members here with more knowlege of EU DIY sources can nudge my memory.
If that fails, you could make your own kit with a pair of ESP x-over PCB (sound.au.com) and four individual amp pcbs/kits from ESP or elsewhere.
I know this much --
It's in the EU (.nl ?)
It'd NOT Maplin
It's not Donberg
It;s NOT Farnell
Maybe members here with more knowlege of EU DIY sources can nudge my memory.
If that fails, you could make your own kit with a pair of ESP x-over PCB (sound.au.com) and four individual amp pcbs/kits from ESP or elsewhere.
Madmike2 said:
you could hook up a kilowatt amp to your tweeters and they'll be fine as long as you keep the volume down. your ears will bleed before you hit 40 watts, so don't sweat that part.
You can make a nice small class A amp for your tweeters, but it does not need to be small.
BobEllis said:
with that kind of efficiency ya 😛 was just pointing out indirectly that i can see the obvious 😀 i think i will have to suck it up and accept that i will be using passive in the box 🙁
Madmike2 said:
how come you will be stuck with passive? Look at the message board and I've found alot of info indicating active is better... If you want a lesser slope crossover perhaps something from nightfire, they mostly do smd stuff. Order arrived quickly to me. There pcbs should work for 12db/octave or 6db/oct. amps maybe based on lm1875(25W)? nightfire
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