I was wondering, for those of you with non-electronic MH ballasts like the ones at 1000bulbs.com, do you hear a humming/buzzing sound coming from your ballast? I want to know if it's really worth a $115 difference between an MH400 ballast and one of the electronic ballasts at diylabs.org (the IceCap 400W). Thanks. 😕
Don't know. But I've been using IceCaps for years to drive my VHO lamps on my aquariums and have never had a problem or heard a sound come from them.
hi spudd, interesting question, magnetic coil and core ballasts use a big 15lbs
transformer, as with most large transformers there can be hum and
vibration. much depends on how they are mounted. if they are bolted to
a sheet metal chasis, they can often make a racket. the 250w mh here
lighting my office as i speak is propped up on a couple neoprene pads to
quiet the case. just take care in mounting. some electronics can give off
some very high freq noise or squeal, some older ones may have slight
flicker. somewhat a matter of the luck of the draw on the unit you end up
with and the lamp used with it.
transformer, as with most large transformers there can be hum and
vibration. much depends on how they are mounted. if they are bolted to
a sheet metal chasis, they can often make a racket. the 250w mh here
lighting my office as i speak is propped up on a couple neoprene pads to
quiet the case. just take care in mounting. some electronics can give off
some very high freq noise or squeal, some older ones may have slight
flicker. somewhat a matter of the luck of the draw on the unit you end up
with and the lamp used with it.
Thanks for the insightful post tonydean. I hadn't thought about using cushioning such as your neoprene example, to minimize the noise. Do you happen to use a non-electronic ballast in your PJ (I know I'm assuming you have one setup up. Sorry! hehe).
I guess what I'm trying to do is convince myself that it's worth it spending $160 for a 250W electronic ballast with the lamp kit at diylabs.org.
From what I have read, the electronic ballasts also are supposed to run a lot cooler, and virtually eliminate flickering of your light source as well. At least that's what the advertising says, which is why I'm asking you guys for your input. Thanks again tonydean. Anybody else have anymore input for us all, as I'm sure there are a bunch of other lurkers thinking the same things now.
I guess what I'm trying to do is convince myself that it's worth it spending $160 for a 250W electronic ballast with the lamp kit at diylabs.org.
From what I have read, the electronic ballasts also are supposed to run a lot cooler, and virtually eliminate flickering of your light source as well. At least that's what the advertising says, which is why I'm asking you guys for your input. Thanks again tonydean. Anybody else have anymore input for us all, as I'm sure there are a bunch of other lurkers thinking the same things now.
hey spudd, yep i have used the magnetic ones in a diy projector 🙂 .
i have not posted much in a long time but i have some pics of the
ballast and lightbox here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=37611
the ballast is quiet all bolted to the wood bottom for the projector.
but it does generate much heat, and when warm that 15lbs of steel stays
warm forever on cooldown. i used a 400w conversion lamp that uses a
hps ballast, and at the time there were not any electronic ones to drive it.
also the icecap 400w is kind of spendy. if your going 250w i would pay the
extra for electronic. the icecap 250w is not that much more than the
magnetic ballast. although, i would not go with only 250w. i have an unused
icecap 250 ballast here, and i'm going to rebuild my 400w projector back
to 50,000 lumen 575w lamps. 250w will be on the dim side for 15" and
larger lcds.
i have not posted much in a long time but i have some pics of the
ballast and lightbox here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=37611
the ballast is quiet all bolted to the wood bottom for the projector.
but it does generate much heat, and when warm that 15lbs of steel stays
warm forever on cooldown. i used a 400w conversion lamp that uses a
hps ballast, and at the time there were not any electronic ones to drive it.
also the icecap 400w is kind of spendy. if your going 250w i would pay the
extra for electronic. the icecap 250w is not that much more than the
magnetic ballast. although, i would not go with only 250w. i have an unused
icecap 250 ballast here, and i'm going to rebuild my 400w projector back
to 50,000 lumen 575w lamps. 250w will be on the dim side for 15" and
larger lcds.
Interesting. I bought a CMV Ct-522a to strip down, should be here Monday. It's supposed to have a 500:1 contrast ratio.
So, you think that the 250W IceCap would be too dim for my 15" lcd? If I have to go 400W I would definitely have to go the route of a non-electronic. The 400W electronic ballasts are uber expensive.
What would be your recoomendation for a ballast and lamp (and who's a reputable retailer) since you're a veteran at this DIY PJ hobby? Thanks again. 😀
So, you think that the 250W IceCap would be too dim for my 15" lcd? If I have to go 400W I would definitely have to go the route of a non-electronic. The 400W electronic ballasts are uber expensive.
What would be your recoomendation for a ballast and lamp (and who's a reputable retailer) since you're a veteran at this DIY PJ hobby? Thanks again. 😀
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