money dance
You are dead right about caps. Last night I fried a nice JBL titanium tweeter just unpluging a RCA plug. The tweeter would have survived with the cap in series.Bad night.
The thing is, what cap that do not cost tons of money? People are talking about very expensive pieces here. And then, there's the issue of the "sound ruining" by the cap.
And for the mid horn, we are taking about a relatively large cap. Fs: 1.5 Khz and the cap sould be two octaves down, to avoid disturbing the curve imposed by the digital active crossover. Same for the tweeter. Big caps, expensive and potencialy bad sounding.
Unless, you can suggest me a good brand not so crazy priced. I'm in the dark here, so any suggestion is welcomed.
cheers
Ric
You are dead right about caps. Last night I fried a nice JBL titanium tweeter just unpluging a RCA plug. The tweeter would have survived with the cap in series.Bad night.
The thing is, what cap that do not cost tons of money? People are talking about very expensive pieces here. And then, there's the issue of the "sound ruining" by the cap.
And for the mid horn, we are taking about a relatively large cap. Fs: 1.5 Khz and the cap sould be two octaves down, to avoid disturbing the curve imposed by the digital active crossover. Same for the tweeter. Big caps, expensive and potencialy bad sounding.
Unless, you can suggest me a good brand not so crazy priced. I'm in the dark here, so any suggestion is welcomed.
cheers
Ric
Some use it and some not
I was doing some light research on manufacturers that buuild active speakers .
Some use a capacitor on the tweeter, like Genelec, but 2 octaves lower that the frecuency crossing poing. Others, like JBL in their new monitors go directly. They use one LM3886 for the tweeter and two LM 3886 in bridge config for the woofer.
cherrs
Ric
I was doing some light research on manufacturers that buuild active speakers .
Some use a capacitor on the tweeter, like Genelec, but 2 octaves lower that the frecuency crossing poing. Others, like JBL in their new monitors go directly. They use one LM3886 for the tweeter and two LM 3886 in bridge config for the woofer.
cherrs
Ric
Hello Greg and everybody,
I measured DC offset of about 6mV; a friend told me everything below 100mV would be nice so I did not worry. Any Two-Way-Speaker (as i used and will use) has an cap in series with the tweeter so I do not worry about it.
I had no RF filter on input. And, yes the PS was poorly dimensioned. As soon as I get a new chip and bolder transformers i will report my results. meybe I should put cap/R across input. As said this will be in a few weeks. I will report in this thread.
Cheers
Christian.
I measured DC offset of about 6mV; a friend told me everything below 100mV would be nice so I did not worry. Any Two-Way-Speaker (as i used and will use) has an cap in series with the tweeter so I do not worry about it.
I had no RF filter on input. And, yes the PS was poorly dimensioned. As soon as I get a new chip and bolder transformers i will report my results. meybe I should put cap/R across input. As said this will be in a few weeks. I will report in this thread.
Cheers
Christian.
Christian,
Thanks for the feedback. I like the 6mV DC offset too. I guess the reason I'm paying too much attention to the offset is that at quiescent current of the amp at 50mA, offset of 30 mV/6Ohms is about 5mA or 10 % imbalance. I the quiescent current was 200mA it would be a different story. But again if it sounds good, who cares.
Looking forward to hear about the sound of it with the new parts. I hope I'l have mine ready during the weekend.
Greg
Thanks for the feedback. I like the 6mV DC offset too. I guess the reason I'm paying too much attention to the offset is that at quiescent current of the amp at 50mA, offset of 30 mV/6Ohms is about 5mA or 10 % imbalance. I the quiescent current was 200mA it would be a different story. But again if it sounds good, who cares.
Looking forward to hear about the sound of it with the new parts. I hope I'l have mine ready during the weekend.
Greg
Hello again,
I ordered everything I need today and will start building the new one next week. (I hope so).
One question occurred: what wires do you use for the signal (from RCAs to chip and from there to the speaker terminals)?
Would be nice if there is a cheap and really good solution.
Cheers
Christian.
I ordered everything I need today and will start building the new one next week. (I hope so).
One question occurred: what wires do you use for the signal (from RCAs to chip and from there to the speaker terminals)?
Would be nice if there is a cheap and really good solution.
Cheers
Christian.
ever tried ....
ever tried wires for thermostat ?
if not try it out and then change them for the real high end stuff....
the result could very well be a sad day in your life as the cheap wire (about $0.16 /ft) does the same thing and it is solid core as well so you can pretend it's made in heaven!
J-P
ever tried wires for thermostat ?
if not try it out and then change them for the real high end stuff....
the result could very well be a sad day in your life as the cheap wire (about $0.16 /ft) does the same thing and it is solid core as well so you can pretend it's made in heaven!
J-P
I forgot something to ask ...
Greg, would you mmind me putting your schematic (which I used) on my website? I will describe my experience with chipamps there when I finished everything ... I will write that it is from you and may link your website or whatever you want ...
Have a nice Weekend!
Cheers
Christian.
Greg, would you mmind me putting your schematic (which I used) on my website? I will describe my experience with chipamps there when I finished everything ... I will write that it is from you and may link your website or whatever you want ...
Have a nice Weekend!
Cheers
Christian.
krishu said:Hello again,
I ordered everything I need today and will start building the new one next week. (I hope so).
One question occurred: what wires do you use for the signal (from RCAs to chip and from there to the speaker terminals)?
Would be nice if there is a cheap and really good solution.
Cheers
Christian.
I'd use solid wire for the speaker connection. It should be very short anyway. Otherwise, shielded cable. I'm sure there are all kinds of exotic types but they are not my type.
In my case, 10cm of shielded wire from in RCA to In select sw. and from there just normal solid wire to the attenuator and the IC. They are very close. From IC to the speaker connector, normal solid wire. Again less than 5cm length.
I can't hear a difference between different types of wires in case like that.
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