There is plethora of choices on Bay but does any of you have a positive experience with any particular fan brand/design ? I need a small unit 3"x3" max to cool down overheating old cd player. I found in my junk drawer brushless 12V /0.18A unit and hooked it up to 5V power supply inside the player and can confirm it's effectiveness but it's way too noisy. It is a pretty old unit so maybe newer designs are quieter.
See the noise figures, mains operated fans may be quieter.
And check the power supply in the CD player, bad caps or defective transistors may be cause of overheating, unless it was like that from new.
That tells me something, possibly a motor, is pulling too much current, and its life will be shorter than expected.
A scope would be useful, but on a 10+ year old unit I would change all the caps on the low voltage side of the supply, unless they are of superlative quality.
And check the power supply in the CD player, bad caps or defective transistors may be cause of overheating, unless it was like that from new.
That tells me something, possibly a motor, is pulling too much current, and its life will be shorter than expected.
A scope would be useful, but on a 10+ year old unit I would change all the caps on the low voltage side of the supply, unless they are of superlative quality.
You may find a rubber plug under the sticker on the fan center, open it, add some thick oil or a little grease + light oil, and work the shaft front to back against the spring, and put it back together.
Add just enough so that nothing comes out when the plug is put back, about two drops is usually enough.
A dry bearing can also be noisy, this helps a lot.
Add just enough so that nothing comes out when the plug is put back, about two drops is usually enough.
A dry bearing can also be noisy, this helps a lot.
I’ve used several of the Noctua fans, and their commutation drive is silent, no high frequency ringing. Their blades however are not silent, they are notched or finned depending on the model to generate a varied frequency spectrum.
Their bearings are very quiet and last. I has one leak on a 120mm fan and it slung oil over all the blades, but it remained quiet and is about 8 or 9 years of age.
To keep the noise down I run a series resistor and adjustable speed controller. My one concern is they are not balanced as well as they could be, and this vibration transfers to the bodies they are mounted in. The 60mm ones are louder to my ears than the big ones. The silicone grommets help a limited amount, but bringing the speed as low as allowable for the motor to reliably start is the most effective method I found.
Their bearings are very quiet and last. I has one leak on a 120mm fan and it slung oil over all the blades, but it remained quiet and is about 8 or 9 years of age.
To keep the noise down I run a series resistor and adjustable speed controller. My one concern is they are not balanced as well as they could be, and this vibration transfers to the bodies they are mounted in. The 60mm ones are louder to my ears than the big ones. The silicone grommets help a limited amount, but bringing the speed as low as allowable for the motor to reliably start is the most effective method I found.
Thank you guys. You're most helpful.See the noise figures, mains operated fans may be quieter.
And check the power supply in the CD player, bad caps or defective transistors may be cause of overheating, unless it was like that from new.
That tells me something, possibly a motor, is pulling too much current, and its life will be shorter than expected.
A scope would be useful, but on a 10+ year old unit I would change all the caps on the low voltage side of the supply, unless they are of superlative quality.
Cd player is totally re- caped and based on old Philips model and cdm2 mech. Before it was ,re caped it could play one CD and it overheated and now it can play 3 CDs . The bugger is once you take the cover off to measure it never overheats . It's probably one of 3 regulators, one of 3 protection termistors or one of 4 old servo Op amps almost touching added power regulators. With the fan I have it ON for three days already and it keeps playing. I think just a minimal air movement will work so I will experiment with series resistor.
If something is getting so hot, within the span of one CD, that it stops the machine from working then it should be getting pretty hot to the touch with the lid off. At least to the point where it's going to be the thing that's obviously warmer than everything else.
I can't imagine this was there when the thing was new so it does imply excess current draw somewhere inside. It's even possible that the issue is a voltage regulator going into thermal shutdown if something somewhere else is misbehaving.
I can't imagine this was there when the thing was new so it does imply excess current draw somewhere inside. It's even possible that the issue is a voltage regulator going into thermal shutdown if something somewhere else is misbehaving.
it's an over 40 years old player ( Meridian MCD Pro).Very tight ,compact design with added bottom can containing additional electronics and power supply and small vent . Regular MCD ( Philips Cd-101) which I had was running hot. This one is baking and everything is hot inside. I'm sure it was working fine when designed but they didn't plan for it to be used 40 years..
If you want a smaller fan, there are plenty of fans from 1" and up, mostly used in CPU cooling in desktops and laptops, and some are very quiet.
Some even have ducts, so you can choose an appropriate one for your needs.
Some even have ducts, so you can choose an appropriate one for your needs.
I will try suggested Noctua. They are a fair bit more expensive than what you can source from the Bay but a working Meridian MCD Pro is a very rare player. I read that only about 100 were made for studios around the world and decent example can still fetch $1k.
I just finished work on vintage Meridian 100 system. I Re- capped 105 monoblocks , changed power trans ( universal mains) in restored , upgraded and aligned 104 tuner and changed transformer and re- caped 101 preamp. Initially I thought that 206 series CD will be a visually better match but I landed a clunker which is giving me grief and actually doesn't match series 100 at all . Not sure what I was thinking. So it must be MCD Pro which I was going to sell and drink & womanize for a couple of weeks .eh ...always uphill battle
I just finished work on vintage Meridian 100 system. I Re- capped 105 monoblocks , changed power trans ( universal mains) in restored , upgraded and aligned 104 tuner and changed transformer and re- caped 101 preamp. Initially I thought that 206 series CD will be a visually better match but I landed a clunker which is giving me grief and actually doesn't match series 100 at all . Not sure what I was thinking. So it must be MCD Pro which I was going to sell and drink & womanize for a couple of weeks .eh ...always uphill battle
I have three 140 mm Noctuas moving air 24/7 around a temperature controlled area, so far working four years without a hitch.
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