I have a pair, Brand new in box. $1200 / pair. They are sexy!
Also have a lightly used pair, message me if interested.
G.
Also have a lightly used pair, message me if interested.
G.
Hi, i actually still have all of them, 2 NIB, 2 used in a prototype system i was working on.
Geoffrey
Geoffrey
12" aura open dipole to dual 6" focal Audiom mids, to a mundorf ATM, not an MTM, 6" focal pushed together, tweeter to the side of the drivers and offset and mirrored, bi amped an EQ using a mini DSP, 4th order LP on th mids, 4th to 8th order ( low Q) HP with a impedance notch at the tweeters resonance which causes the super high filter slope rate on the tweeter while simultaneously damping the tweeter at its resonance, tweeter and mids are currently in their own enclosure but will probably make as a dipole as well, say that 10 times quickly!
Wonder how high you would run the subs if the mids are dipole and can't do much low end. Sounds like a great project! What are the crossover points with the mids in the sealed box?
So this project was designed around an Audio Note Neio amp with around 7watts of output. This is why I used 2 6" mids, the 1W/1M SPL was 95dB. Unfortunately, I got divorced, my amps were worth as much as a slightly used Toyota so I sold them. If I continue with the project, there is no need to have dual mids. Strangely, I really enjoy the sound of a good Class D amp which seems odd coming from single ended so I will have gobs of power. In its next incarnation, I will use at least 2 12" per side or 2 15" per side, 1 mid and a Mondorf or another AMT. I have designed loudspeakers both as a hobby and professionally since I was 15, im now 60!
I selected elements for this project from years of experience. My ears find dipole bass to be far superior to a vented or sealed enclosure, the attack and dynamics are on another level. The cone material of the Focal W cones is extremely good, their motors not so much but they make great mids, I also think that AMT tweeters intrinsically have a better sound than conventional tweeters or horns. I wanted to combine all my likes into one system. I probably will not do a true dipole for the mids, or tweeter (Mondorf does make dipoles) maybe something like what GR Reasearch does. I don't need the rear output of mids or a dipole tweeter splashing off my rear walls but like the idea and sound of a semi open back enclosure, I have no data to backup why I think open boxes are better, maybe internal reflections, maybe back pressure on the cone, these are pretty easy to measure but never found an answer, I just like the way it sounds, less congestion, more clarity.
Current crossover points are around 180Hz and 2K Hz, opening the mid enclosure will probably push this up a tad maybe 250Hz?? I can deal with any crossover issue passively between the mids and tweeter, I may run into some issues between the woofers and mids, Linkwitz has much info about this and his work was way under rated. I supposed that much of this system is based on my subjective opinion, but the system also measures very will +- 1.5dB with some room issues in the upped bass which really isn't an issue.
I find it extremely important to have a low tweeter crossover point, between the mids and tweeters, if possible,1/2 the wavelength of the center to center inter driver spacing. This directly improves imaging / the soundstage, this is also why I use an impedance notch at the tweeters resonance. If done right, the output is down around 80dB at the crossover point, the HP slope rate is -48dB or greater with 5 components, it's an elegant design choice and no blown up or distorted tweeter. Look at the Jeff Joseph loudspeakers, he has some nonsense patent that creates a notch by having multi taps on his inductor... if i remember correctly, anyway, this works really well and is included in almost every system that I have built. Always make sure to compensate for diffraction loss and you got a good speaker! I don't do much shop talk these days, sorry if I'm rambling. Enjoy!
I selected elements for this project from years of experience. My ears find dipole bass to be far superior to a vented or sealed enclosure, the attack and dynamics are on another level. The cone material of the Focal W cones is extremely good, their motors not so much but they make great mids, I also think that AMT tweeters intrinsically have a better sound than conventional tweeters or horns. I wanted to combine all my likes into one system. I probably will not do a true dipole for the mids, or tweeter (Mondorf does make dipoles) maybe something like what GR Reasearch does. I don't need the rear output of mids or a dipole tweeter splashing off my rear walls but like the idea and sound of a semi open back enclosure, I have no data to backup why I think open boxes are better, maybe internal reflections, maybe back pressure on the cone, these are pretty easy to measure but never found an answer, I just like the way it sounds, less congestion, more clarity.
Current crossover points are around 180Hz and 2K Hz, opening the mid enclosure will probably push this up a tad maybe 250Hz?? I can deal with any crossover issue passively between the mids and tweeter, I may run into some issues between the woofers and mids, Linkwitz has much info about this and his work was way under rated. I supposed that much of this system is based on my subjective opinion, but the system also measures very will +- 1.5dB with some room issues in the upped bass which really isn't an issue.
I find it extremely important to have a low tweeter crossover point, between the mids and tweeters, if possible,1/2 the wavelength of the center to center inter driver spacing. This directly improves imaging / the soundstage, this is also why I use an impedance notch at the tweeters resonance. If done right, the output is down around 80dB at the crossover point, the HP slope rate is -48dB or greater with 5 components, it's an elegant design choice and no blown up or distorted tweeter. Look at the Jeff Joseph loudspeakers, he has some nonsense patent that creates a notch by having multi taps on his inductor... if i remember correctly, anyway, this works really well and is included in almost every system that I have built. Always make sure to compensate for diffraction loss and you got a good speaker! I don't do much shop talk these days, sorry if I'm rambling. Enjoy!
