Hello all,
I'm hoping to get some good advice from you experts as I embark on building a tube phono pre. Thinking about PH16. A couple of basic questions:
Is it a good idea to put the power supply in a separate box/chassis?
What's the best way to get PH16 (or similar) to work with 0.4mV MC cartridge?
What's the best way to cut my own holes in a blank chassis, and any specific recommendation for rectangular holes?
Would you typically go with the parts kit (separate from the tubes) that are available for purchase with the PCBs or buy your own parts?
Are there important factors other than "it looks cool" vs "more issues with dust" in whether to have the tubes coming up out of the top of the chassis?
Thanks very much for any advice!
Ross in Colorado
I'm hoping to get some good advice from you experts as I embark on building a tube phono pre. Thinking about PH16. A couple of basic questions:
Is it a good idea to put the power supply in a separate box/chassis?
What's the best way to get PH16 (or similar) to work with 0.4mV MC cartridge?
What's the best way to cut my own holes in a blank chassis, and any specific recommendation for rectangular holes?
Would you typically go with the parts kit (separate from the tubes) that are available for purchase with the PCBs or buy your own parts?
Are there important factors other than "it looks cool" vs "more issues with dust" in whether to have the tubes coming up out of the top of the chassis?
Thanks very much for any advice!
Ross in Colorado
Hello all,
I'm hoping to get some good advice from you experts as I embark on building a tube phono pre. Thinking about PH16. A couple of basic questions:
I will assume your are talking about the Vacuum Tube Audio PH16 kit.
Is it a good idea to put the power supply in a separate box/chassis?
If you are new to kit building I would keep it all in one chassis to make the build a little easier.
What's the best way to get PH16 (or similar) to work with 0.4mV MC cartridge?
You will need a step up transformer which is available from VTA, they use Lundahl. Jensen and Cinemag are other options.
What's the best way to cut my own holes in a blank chassis, and any specific recommendation for rectangular holes?
I would use a step bit for round holes you might want to put a block of wood behind where you are drilling to prevent hole from deforming. There are rectangular punches but they can be pricey.
Would you typically go with the parts kit (separate from the tubes) that are available for purchase with the PCBs or buy your own parts?
I went with the parts kit but I will be swapping out some of the capacitors and resistors.
Are there important factors other than "it looks cool" vs "more issues with dust" in whether to have the tubes coming up out of the top of the chassis?
If you have little kids around you may not want exposed tubes.
Good Luck!
Scott
Thanks very much for any advice!
Ross in Colorado
Thanks a lot, Scott! I'm thinking that your answer on the parts kit means I should order without the parts. I'm also thinking I might try to build in the step-up transformers with my own switch so I can bypass them if I go to a MM cartridge or sell the preamp to someone who has MM.
What's the best way to get PH16 (or similar) to work with 0.4mV MC cartridge?
You will need a step up transformer which is available from VTA, they use Lundahl. Jensen and Cinemag are other options.
So vta.com is valley tax authority. vacuumtubeauthority.com gets me a redirect to amazon.com . How does one reach vta to buy a lundahl transformer?
Can anybody tell me what part U1 is in the power supply stage of the PH16? It says "VTA HVR - SILR". I suspect it might be something like a LR645 (in TO-92 package?) or but I'm far from expert at this stuff and I don't want to get it wrong!
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I have found that The MK Morse hole saws are very good at sawing a nice round hole in 1/8 thick aluminum. Even just using a hand held drill and clamping the work to a benchtop or sheet of plywood. Surprisingly better than the Big Box stuff.
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