no matter what you do for the 1st speaker eventually you will want better. so if you don't make a very good speaker on 1st try it is not a problem as long as you didn't go bankrupt in the process.Price is fine, this looks great. If i could find a tweeter that goes sufficiently low or use a waveguide with it ,would be nice if 2 way was doable from this midwoofer.
all we can do is try to explain to you that good speaker design matches speaker response of woofer to tweeter not only on-axis but also off-axis and averaged out in all directions ( power response ).
in prosound this is accomplished by putting tweeters into a horn of same dimensions as the woofer. in studio monitors a waveguide is used on tweeters of similar dimension to the woofer. in home speakers it is accomplished by using a small midrange halfway in size between woofer and tweeter.
as a sanity check if you are unsure whether your design makes sense - try to find a similar design that is well regarded. reality is there are no well regarded 8" 2-way speakers without a waveguide on the tweeter. but there are some well regarded 2-ways with woofers as large as 15" but they use large horns to shape the output of the tweeter in space to match that of the woofer.
OK you have all the information now you just need to keep rereading it until you understand it.
and i will go.
good luck.
The problematic thing about comunication is that we in slavic countries think differently about what we are going to say and then everything comes out stupid.so i apologize🙂
i meant exactly thatYou lost me on the not good practice . Do you want to get the baffle effects nailed down?.
If you understand how to sim for the baffle, you can also do the same for a mid-range on the baffle.
Try this as a mid. https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...ure-Series-Woofer-60W-Driver-4-Ohm?quantity=1
Try this as a mid. https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...ure-Series-Woofer-60W-Driver-4-Ohm?quantity=1
I'll have a look. See if you can make a filter for it. Cross at 1.5k, or wherever you want. Don't include a tweeter response. Just the woofer.
You mean as a mid with the RS225 as a woofer?If you understand how to sim for the baffle, you can also do the same for a mid-range on the baffle.
Try this as a mid. https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...ure-Series-Woofer-60W-Driver-4-Ohm?quantity=1
Ok i will import that Mid, do baffle sim and cross it at 1,5 kI'll have a look. See if you can make a filter for it. Cross at 1.5k, or wherever you want. Don't include a tweeter response. Just the woofer.
If you can sim the woofer, you can sim the mid and you can sim a 3-way if you also add a tweeter. Keep in mind that Sims are not usually perfect, but they can get you close.You mean as a mid with the RS225 as a woofer?
No wait. Make sure the woofer looks right first! Then work with the mid. This is practice only, for now.Ok i will import that Mid, do baffle sim and cross it at 1,5 k
I have to go out for a while. I'll be back in a few hours.
Yes a mid needs it's own chamber, unless it comes with one.
Work with just the woofer until you get the correct looking results.
Here's an RS225 sim, and an frd file. Try the frd, and see if it opens. Your file did not open for me.
This is PE factory data, and a 4th order x-over. Note the breakup is not looking to be a problem.
Play with these, and I'll check back later.
If you can, load my frd, and sim it with the baffle program, instead of the factory data. It hopefully will look pretty decent.
Yes a mid needs it's own chamber, unless it comes with one.
Work with just the woofer until you get the correct looking results.
Here's an RS225 sim, and an frd file. Try the frd, and see if it opens. Your file did not open for me.
This is PE factory data, and a 4th order x-over. Note the breakup is not looking to be a problem.
Play with these, and I'll check back later.
If you can, load my frd, and sim it with the baffle program, instead of the factory data. It hopefully will look pretty decent.
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