Question 1.
I've purchased mundorf silver gold in oil caps and need advice on the best solder to use. The supplier gave me some mundorf silver gold solder but is it easy to use and the right solder for the job.
Question 2.
I also need to tin the ends of some copper cables. Which solder is the best for that?
Thanks
I've purchased mundorf silver gold in oil caps and need advice on the best solder to use. The supplier gave me some mundorf silver gold solder but is it easy to use and the right solder for the job.
Question 2.
I also need to tin the ends of some copper cables. Which solder is the best for that?
Thanks
I'd go with a quality 60/40 solder, like Kester or Multicore. It has worked well for centuries and is likely to continue doing so. Don't buy chinese solder from ebay. I used some Yubright taiwanese solder that was given to me and it worked great.
A roll of Kester might seem expensive, but if you plan to do more than just a single project, it's worth it. If not, you can get good cheap short lengths of solder from a german ebay seller(if you're in europe).
If you want to treat yourself, buy almit solder. I got some of this stuff as samples, and it's great. Manufactured to a very high standard, and the price reflects this.
Personally i don't believe in "boutique" solder much. Solders with a high silver content will require higher temps, and in my experience the joints don't come out as nice.
Quality soldering is 80% technique & tools and 20% solder quality.
A roll of Kester might seem expensive, but if you plan to do more than just a single project, it's worth it. If not, you can get good cheap short lengths of solder from a german ebay seller(if you're in europe).
If you want to treat yourself, buy almit solder. I got some of this stuff as samples, and it's great. Manufactured to a very high standard, and the price reflects this.
Personally i don't believe in "boutique" solder much. Solders with a high silver content will require higher temps, and in my experience the joints don't come out as nice.
Quality soldering is 80% technique & tools and 20% solder quality.
if you're new to soldering go with 63/37 solder. the eutectic (63/37) solder is easier to prevent cold joints because it goes from liquid to solid faster than the non eutectic solders such as 60/40.
Agreed.
Also, go with rosin-core unless you have a very good reason not to.
Do you have a good iron?
Hi,
Sorry if off topic but believe it goes in the sense of the OP :
- Can a wrapping allow better result than a soldering...When possible ?
- Is it usefull to bend the legs on the conductive pcb before soldering or does the solder goes between the two (with very thin layer) and finally doesn't allow the PCB and the legs to have direct contact ?
- is a silver solder which has mater look with joins is less conductive or give worser sound result than a brillant 60/40 solder ? My understanding is it's impossible to have brillant join with a 96/4 silver solder !
thanks
Sorry if off topic but believe it goes in the sense of the OP :
- Can a wrapping allow better result than a soldering...When possible ?
- Is it usefull to bend the legs on the conductive pcb before soldering or does the solder goes between the two (with very thin layer) and finally doesn't allow the PCB and the legs to have direct contact ?
- is a silver solder which has mater look with joins is less conductive or give worser sound result than a brillant 60/40 solder ? My understanding is it's impossible to have brillant join with a 96/4 silver solder !
thanks
63/37 solder would be best.
Soldering and solder joints is one of the most widely studied areas of electronic production....Getting a good joint is the key as Kuroguy has said, using eutectic is the best way.
Will solder joints affect sound only if they are bad joints...otherwise they will have no affect on signals.
Silver solder is for soldering silver wire (or silver plated), other than that no real benefits.
Some mechanical holding will help the joint, and removes the chance of movement during cooling, all solder joints need solder between the parts and the correct intermetallic layers to be formed.
Soldering and solder joints is one of the most widely studied areas of electronic production....Getting a good joint is the key as Kuroguy has said, using eutectic is the best way.
Will solder joints affect sound only if they are bad joints...otherwise they will have no affect on signals.
Silver solder is for soldering silver wire (or silver plated), other than that no real benefits.
Some mechanical holding will help the joint, and removes the chance of movement during cooling, all solder joints need solder between the parts and the correct intermetallic layers to be formed.
If 63/37 is readily available and priced correctly then use that. But if 63/37 is not available (EU...) or significantly more expensive than 60/40, simply get the 60/40. Pay attention to the quality of the solder/flux and the amount of flux in the solder.
If someone isn't able to get perfect joints with 60/40, he either uses really bad 60/40 solder or can't solder properly.
If someone isn't able to get perfect joints with 60/40, he either uses really bad 60/40 solder or can't solder properly.
"63/37" is just the alloy. There are a number of particular flux chemistries to choose from. With leaded solder, it's not such a huge deal, because the surface tension of the solder makes things work well. For lead-free, it's much tougher to get the solder to wet the component and pads.
If you must use lead-free, I'd suggest the SAC305 alloy and the Kester 275 flux. It's a great flux, it's completely non-corrosive, and very active. SAC305 has the lowest melting point of lead-free alloys, so it's not too tough to use. It does look slightly crusty though, so you have to get used to that. For an 0.031" wire solder, it's Kester part number 24-7068-7601.
For 63/37 alloy, the flux is less critical, but you still want something that is completely non-corrosive. I still like 275 flux for that, although you rarely need anything that active. 245 will work fine. Kester's ancient '44' flux works, but it tears my throat up and it has a non-zero halogen content, so it creeps me out, even though you supposedly don't need to remove it post-soldering. 63/37 alloy with 245 flux in a 0.031" wire: Kester 24-6337-8800. It seems to be very popular, and I'm sure it will outperform any generic 'rosin core solder'.
If you must use lead-free, I'd suggest the SAC305 alloy and the Kester 275 flux. It's a great flux, it's completely non-corrosive, and very active. SAC305 has the lowest melting point of lead-free alloys, so it's not too tough to use. It does look slightly crusty though, so you have to get used to that. For an 0.031" wire solder, it's Kester part number 24-7068-7601.
For 63/37 alloy, the flux is less critical, but you still want something that is completely non-corrosive. I still like 275 flux for that, although you rarely need anything that active. 245 will work fine. Kester's ancient '44' flux works, but it tears my throat up and it has a non-zero halogen content, so it creeps me out, even though you supposedly don't need to remove it post-soldering. 63/37 alloy with 245 flux in a 0.031" wire: Kester 24-6337-8800. It seems to be very popular, and I'm sure it will outperform any generic 'rosin core solder'.
So would I...
I have strong reason to doubt that esoteric solders (with silver, gold and name it) give an audible advantage. In reality a bad solder-joint will have more impact on SQ than the 1 or 2% silver or gold... which will have big impact on your bank-account.
@Eldam "on wrapping": Yes... correct assumption. I used that technique in the past with good and stable results, mainly for prototyping..
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