This post is somewhat similar to the one below, where the gentleman is aiming for a world class setup. Except I'm not, just a good one 🙂. I do think we are similar in being more the type to jump right in. I understand best by doing, I have no brain for engineering.
Hi folks. I've been wanting to try my hand at building speakers for a while. I like woodworking, and I like speakers, but in between that I have very little knowledge. I recently got a nad t758 with Dirac, and was really impressed with Dirac and thought maybe this was my chance to try my hand at building something, without doing any crossovers at all and letting Dirac do most of the work.
So while I had previously thought of doing something to use in my main 2.1 system I'm thinking maybe I should build a nice pair of fronts to use in my home theatre, something good enough that I can use it for 2.1 stereo happily, and maybe rival my mains. It seems to me the nad is good enough to really enjoy, if not in the same league as my stereo exactly.
I'm hoping to build a new garage with a listening room, which would make my diy speakers *the* speakers either out there or in the house. So I'm aiming for good.
Sooooo...I guess I'm looking for the most general advice, resources etc...
So much of the info I come across has a lot to do with crossovers, which makes sense, but I'm more trying to learn how to pick drivers and how to make decisions on cabinet style.
Right now I have my eyes on:
RAAL 70-10D Ribbon Tweeter
Totem 6" torrent drivers
I can get both for an excellent price (under $1k usd) and I *think* they would go well together but that's kinda my starting point to try and figure it out.
These, because if the room, would be wall mounted and used with a sub.
Any and all advice is appreciated.
And yes, I know the smart thing is probably to get some kits and play with them. I gotta be honest, I don't really want to. I would really like to dive in to something good, and really get at the woodworking element. I figure the drivers are always reusable in a different design if needed.
I think a Dirac enabled multichannel amp can run a fully active setup just by specifying crossover in the setup menu, yes? Alternatively I could use a minidsp or something similar, but I feel I do want Dirac.
Appreciate anyone who can throw any knowledge at me.
Those drivers, should I pounce on them, or am I an idiot for thinking I can just pick some decent drivers and make them work without fully understanding them.
I'm hoping to build something punchy, fast, dynamic. I currently have a very accurate, musical, pretty system which I love. Midrange magic. I thought I would go for a counterpoint, something a little faster and suited to rocking out. Yes, it is bookshelf I'm looking to build but in my experience a good bookshelf with a sub can give a pretty fun and intense presentation. And its what fits my space.
Pic of my space for reference. Yes the xmas decorations are down now 🙂
Hi folks. I've been wanting to try my hand at building speakers for a while. I like woodworking, and I like speakers, but in between that I have very little knowledge. I recently got a nad t758 with Dirac, and was really impressed with Dirac and thought maybe this was my chance to try my hand at building something, without doing any crossovers at all and letting Dirac do most of the work.
So while I had previously thought of doing something to use in my main 2.1 system I'm thinking maybe I should build a nice pair of fronts to use in my home theatre, something good enough that I can use it for 2.1 stereo happily, and maybe rival my mains. It seems to me the nad is good enough to really enjoy, if not in the same league as my stereo exactly.
I'm hoping to build a new garage with a listening room, which would make my diy speakers *the* speakers either out there or in the house. So I'm aiming for good.
Sooooo...I guess I'm looking for the most general advice, resources etc...
So much of the info I come across has a lot to do with crossovers, which makes sense, but I'm more trying to learn how to pick drivers and how to make decisions on cabinet style.
Right now I have my eyes on:
RAAL 70-10D Ribbon Tweeter
Totem 6" torrent drivers
I can get both for an excellent price (under $1k usd) and I *think* they would go well together but that's kinda my starting point to try and figure it out.
These, because if the room, would be wall mounted and used with a sub.
Any and all advice is appreciated.
And yes, I know the smart thing is probably to get some kits and play with them. I gotta be honest, I don't really want to. I would really like to dive in to something good, and really get at the woodworking element. I figure the drivers are always reusable in a different design if needed.
I think a Dirac enabled multichannel amp can run a fully active setup just by specifying crossover in the setup menu, yes? Alternatively I could use a minidsp or something similar, but I feel I do want Dirac.
Appreciate anyone who can throw any knowledge at me.
Those drivers, should I pounce on them, or am I an idiot for thinking I can just pick some decent drivers and make them work without fully understanding them.
I'm hoping to build something punchy, fast, dynamic. I currently have a very accurate, musical, pretty system which I love. Midrange magic. I thought I would go for a counterpoint, something a little faster and suited to rocking out. Yes, it is bookshelf I'm looking to build but in my experience a good bookshelf with a sub can give a pretty fun and intense presentation. And its what fits my space.
Pic of my space for reference. Yes the xmas decorations are down now 🙂
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You're right when you say there is more to it but hey, jump in. Get your learning mistakes out of the way early 😉
Putting them on a wall can work well if they are designed for it but putting ordinary speakers near a wall has problems.
Putting them on a wall can work well if they are designed for it but putting ordinary speakers near a wall has problems.
Any advice on how one starts learning how to select drivers to pair? If using active DSP is it as important?
I'm reading and reading but don't feel like I'm very well directed in my learning.
I'm reading and reading but don't feel like I'm very well directed in my learning.
I begin by working on the acoustic requirements of the speaker and room. Finding the drivers to make that happen can come later, by then this defines what they need to do. This is a more advanced method which may not help you today.
Using DSP can make a few things happen more quickly. It won't change much otherwise. You'd do well to learn what needs to happen between the ways through a cross, why you need to cross something at some frequency, why you need to use some slope.
Using DSP can make a few things happen more quickly. It won't change much otherwise. You'd do well to learn what needs to happen between the ways through a cross, why you need to cross something at some frequency, why you need to use some slope.
As far as being against the wall, I'm hoping that a sealed box, maybe some treatment behind, and Dsp to help with bass issues will mitigate problems?
When you say DSP in this case, I'm assuming you mean equalisation.
Wall mounting a normal box tends to increase midrange variations, as well as diffraction effects. These are not really things that respond well to equalising.
On the other hand, trying to absorb the wall has some potential.. an acoustic fix for an acoustic problem.
Wall mounting a normal box tends to increase midrange variations, as well as diffraction effects. These are not really things that respond well to equalising.
On the other hand, trying to absorb the wall has some potential.. an acoustic fix for an acoustic problem.
If this is your first go 'round with speaker building, build a kit. Usually there's an option to order the components separate if you want to build your own cabinets.
Starting a design from scratch involves testing equipment as well as computer design programs. You can easily spend several hundred dollars just for that stuff. If you have extra money to spend, just buy a better kit.
Starting a design from scratch involves testing equipment as well as computer design programs. You can easily spend several hundred dollars just for that stuff. If you have extra money to spend, just buy a better kit.
I'm going to advocate (again) starting with how loud you normally listen and how loud you'd ever want to listen. You can do that with your current setup and a SPL meter. With those numbers, you can select drivers and amplifier power ratings.
Generally, if your first compromise is to limit how loud you need to go (to reasonable levels, vs "concert"), that opens up more component selection to choose from. You may find that in turn allows you to invest more in the speaker side, considering amplifiers are generally more transparent than speakers...
Generally, if your first compromise is to limit how loud you need to go (to reasonable levels, vs "concert"), that opens up more component selection to choose from. You may find that in turn allows you to invest more in the speaker side, considering amplifiers are generally more transparent than speakers...
That's a good point. If I'm using these primarily for home theatre, which is the plan for now with, in the future, perhaps using them as part of a dedicated 2 channel, I will be running them with my nad, which is I think 100wpc.
Now, if I cut the harbeth off at 80hz and use sub below that I can play as loud as I want.
I figured with these my hope would be to cut off even at 100hz. I find Dirac really did an excellent job of integrating my sub with my harbeth allowing a 80 cut off and sounding fantastic (this was me playing with a nad with Dirac, it's not my normal setup).
So I'm happy, I think, with a 2 way with a nice mid range that doesn't have to go too low, and I will make a powered sub (currently use Martin Logan depth) handle everything below that.
I currently use Harbeth shl5 with 86db sensitivity (but stable impedance) with 25wpc tubes. I usually listen between 75 and 85db at my chair (15 feet). There are moments I would like to go a little louder, but my amp runs out of juice for bass around 88db.
Now, if I cut the harbeth off at 80hz and use sub below that I can play as loud as I want.
I figured with these my hope would be to cut off even at 100hz. I find Dirac really did an excellent job of integrating my sub with my harbeth allowing a 80 cut off and sounding fantastic (this was me playing with a nad with Dirac, it's not my normal setup).
So I'm happy, I think, with a 2 way with a nice mid range that doesn't have to go too low, and I will make a powered sub (currently use Martin Logan depth) handle everything below that.
I currently use Harbeth shl5 with 86db sensitivity (but stable impedance) with 25wpc tubes. I usually listen between 75 and 85db at my chair (15 feet). There are moments I would like to go a little louder, but my amp runs out of juice for bass around 88db.