Up to you
Your tight on space so it is easy to remove one sub for trips needing extra cargo.
If the box is all one unit, the whole sub comes out.
So at least you can still have bass for trips needing more room.
By using separate boxes.
Your tight on space so it is easy to remove one sub for trips needing extra cargo.
If the box is all one unit, the whole sub comes out.
So at least you can still have bass for trips needing more room.
By using separate boxes.
You ask about the 'best' option. You will have to define what your priorities are and what's best for you and your situation.
Are the back seats and floor not an option for groceries?
Are the back seats and floor not an option for groceries?
Update: I set the subsonic filter to about where I'd estimate 40-43hz is, and no more bottoming out! Granted I play at 40/40 on the radio. Could the radio be clipping at 40/40? I notice that after 35, there's no increase in bass though.
It's common for a head unit to clip at about 1/2 volume if the bass is set high but there are a lot of things that can change where it clips.
If it has a loudness contour, the contour tapers off and is no longer present at about 60% of the volume.
If it has a loudness contour, the contour tapers off and is no longer present at about 60% of the volume.
Well I have factory Door speakers so I have to keep the bass at lowest (-9), otherwise they sound muddy/distorted. I've tried the middle (-4, -5), and it gives me more bass but then some songs make it sound muddy, while others are just fine!
Without a scope, there's no way to know when it clips and where it clips will depend on many things so checking it one time won't tell you much.
There are cheap 'scopes' on ebay that are good for nothing more than checking audio for clipping. They're about $25. A 10:1 probe, about $10. You may also need a power cable for it. They run off of 9v.
There are cheap 'scopes' on ebay that are good for nothing more than checking audio for clipping. They're about $25. A 10:1 probe, about $10. You may also need a power cable for it. They run off of 9v.
Got it: looks like I'll have to buy a scope!
One more question: I'm currently looking at any of these 5 subs:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113PX1002B/Kenwood-Excelon-P-XW1002B.html?tp=75811
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA30LB/Pioneer-TS-A3000LB.html?tp=75811
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648TT122/Kicker-48TCWRT122.html?tp=75811
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P1270BM/Infinity-Primus-1270B.html?tp=75811
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CF122/Kicker-48CVTDF122.html?tp=75811
Would any of these sound better than the one I have now?
One more question: I'm currently looking at any of these 5 subs:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113PX1002B/Kenwood-Excelon-P-XW1002B.html?tp=75811
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA30LB/Pioneer-TS-A3000LB.html?tp=75811
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648TT122/Kicker-48TCWRT122.html?tp=75811
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P1270BM/Infinity-Primus-1270B.html?tp=75811
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CF122/Kicker-48CVTDF122.html?tp=75811
Would any of these sound better than the one I have now?
If you buy one of the cheap scopes like the ones described, don't buy a kit unless you want to assemble it. The DSO138 was what I had in mind. Not for repair but I had 3 and they all worked well enough for audio. Others may have something better for cheap.
I don't have opinions on the woofers.
An easy way to hear when your stereo starts to distort is to get about 10-20 feet from the vehicle when you think it's just starting to distort. Chances are, it's distorting well before you can hear it distort when you're in the vehicle unless the system can produce very little volume. Turn the sub off when doing this.
I don't have opinions on the woofers.
An easy way to hear when your stereo starts to distort is to get about 10-20 feet from the vehicle when you think it's just starting to distort. Chances are, it's distorting well before you can hear it distort when you're in the vehicle unless the system can produce very little volume. Turn the sub off when doing this.
From your list, only the
I don't say it will be what you dream of, it is just the only one that might give an audible improvement over the one you have. Also, it is 2 Ohm and will get the most out of your amp.
So if the bass chassis is build right, you get 3 times a plus: more cone area of the 12", more power from 2 Ohm and more output from the passive radiator.
A passive radiator (from physics) works like a vented cabinet, just a little better if done right. Kicker should know how to do such stuff, I hope at last.
Kicker 48TCWRT122
would be worth a try. Please still use the subsonic, set at 35 Hz or higher, otherwise it will burn the voice coil.I don't say it will be what you dream of, it is just the only one that might give an audible improvement over the one you have. Also, it is 2 Ohm and will get the most out of your amp.
So if the bass chassis is build right, you get 3 times a plus: more cone area of the 12", more power from 2 Ohm and more output from the passive radiator.
A passive radiator (from physics) works like a vented cabinet, just a little better if done right. Kicker should know how to do such stuff, I hope at last.
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@Perry Babin I should probably mention that "better" to me is something that hits harder and gets louder.
None of the subs you listed are likely to produce noticeably more bass. To get enough bass to make any changes worth the effort would take a significant change. To make the bass output significantly higher, you'd likely have to go to at least four 10s or two 12s and getting full power from the amp. It might be possible to get some gain with a really nice sub like an Alpine 12" Type R or something better. The Type R has been known to be a long time favorite. It's been replaced with a V2 but it's also likely equal. There are plenty of other good woofers by DD, JL, high-end Kicker and others but none are cheap.
It was dismissed but I suggested adding another 10 of the same model to your current enclosure and mounting them inverted. Wiring the amp to get full power and doubling the cone area will be the best bang for the buck. The inability to put groceries any place other than the trunk and the inability to remove the box when you go shopping limit your options.
It was dismissed but I suggested adding another 10 of the same model to your current enclosure and mounting them inverted. Wiring the amp to get full power and doubling the cone area will be the best bang for the buck. The inability to put groceries any place other than the trunk and the inability to remove the box when you go shopping limit your options.
So that double 10 in the same box was not dismissed. I was simply asking how that would work and y'all explained it to me! Could I do that same setup but instead of inverted, magnet to magnet?
Also, sorry if I missed this question, but I can put groceries in the backseat/floor. I'm not opposed to removing the box either.
Hell, if I absolutely needed to have some bass, I could get an 8 or even a 6.5 for grocery days/trips.
Also, sorry if I missed this question, but I can put groceries in the backseat/floor. I'm not opposed to removing the box either.
Hell, if I absolutely needed to have some bass, I could get an 8 or even a 6.5 for grocery days/trips.
Will they fit magnet to magnet?
The available air space will be reduced (the woofers will 'see' a smaller enclosure) with a magnet to magnet configuration. This could work if the magnets don't hit each other.
Using two woofers will reduce the power to each one so they will be less likely to bottom out.
Did you go to the shop to see of you could get the same woofer to bottom out by pushing on the cone?
Others should comment.
The available air space will be reduced (the woofers will 'see' a smaller enclosure) with a magnet to magnet configuration. This could work if the magnets don't hit each other.
Using two woofers will reduce the power to each one so they will be less likely to bottom out.
Did you go to the shop to see of you could get the same woofer to bottom out by pushing on the cone?
Others should comment.
@Perry Babin so I haven't went to the shop, but they don't have the woofer on display: well they do, but it's in a demo room.
Also: if I needed to take the sub out, could I electrical tape the sub wires? It probably won't be for more than an hour or so at a time!
Also: if I needed to take the sub out, could I electrical tape the sub wires? It probably won't be for more than an hour or so at a time!
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Electrical tape will be a mess.
SpeakON connectors were recommended. They would certainly work. They're about $15 each. You'd need one male and one female.
You could use Faston quick connects for whatever size wire you have. The ones below are too small but you see what I'm referring to. You'd use fully insulated terminals like the one on the right. Nylon insulation is better than PVC but either will work. Most people use a male and female for each wire pair but I've seen people plug a male and female from an amp output together and that doesn't go well. I'd recommend using two males on one side and two females on the other pair of wires (if you use this type of connector).
SpeakON connectors were recommended. They would certainly work. They're about $15 each. You'd need one male and one female.
You could use Faston quick connects for whatever size wire you have. The ones below are too small but you see what I'm referring to. You'd use fully insulated terminals like the one on the right. Nylon insulation is better than PVC but either will work. Most people use a male and female for each wire pair but I've seen people plug a male and female from an amp output together and that doesn't go well. I'd recommend using two males on one side and two females on the other pair of wires (if you use this type of connector).
Attachments
Your car audio shop should be able to install some quick connector into the existing wire. Takes about 10 minutes. I undestand you are unable to do anything your self, but usually no job too complicated for anyone with two healty hands. Cold look like this one, but you may only need half of it.
