if you cant make a box for your sub....
get one of this
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk1x10v-single-10-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-box
re use your CV driver or get one of this
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/ddx-10-inch-car-subwoofer
at this point looks like the box is mismatched for your 10" CV driver
( or the driver it is damaged already )
for mechanical damage you need to ask somebody else here that have the experience
gladly i have never dealt with damaged drivers or damaged one myself.
get one of this
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk1x10v-single-10-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-box
re use your CV driver or get one of this
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/ddx-10-inch-car-subwoofer
at this point looks like the box is mismatched for your 10" CV driver
( or the driver it is damaged already )
for mechanical damage you need to ask somebody else here that have the experience
gladly i have never dealt with damaged drivers or damaged one myself.
You seem to have no real world experience with subwoofers, cabinet size and amp power. You expect too much from this 10" with 2x200W rms..
A single 10" like yours can add some low end at limited sound level. It is no door ratteling, chassis shaking dB monster. Just a very basic entry level sub to get the feet wet.
Even if you would add a second cabinet and driver, I don't think this thingy will meet your expectations.
Have a look at your head unit. What kind of bass enhanecement or loudness is activated? Just pressing the loudness button may 10 fold the power to your sub.
You got to start linear and then match the amps parameter, later you can carfully add some low boost, but I don't think this will please you.
The amp has quite some power. Always better than having less than the speaker can take.
A single 10" like yours can add some low end at limited sound level. It is no door ratteling, chassis shaking dB monster. Just a very basic entry level sub to get the feet wet.
Even if you would add a second cabinet and driver, I don't think this thingy will meet your expectations.
Have a look at your head unit. What kind of bass enhanecement or loudness is activated? Just pressing the loudness button may 10 fold the power to your sub.
You got to start linear and then match the amps parameter, later you can carfully add some low boost, but I don't think this will please you.
The amp has quite some power. Always better than having less than the speaker can take.
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So: it's a stock head unit that's at -9 (lowest) because any other level would muddy up the stock speakers
Yesterday I stopped by my old stereo place and they said that a ported box would be much better. Is that because there's no room for the vc heat to escape? I haven't upgraded yet but I wanted to get your input.
Did you post the dimensions of your enclosure?
I don't think you're going to be satisfied with this woofer, no matter the enclosure.
I previously stated that ported would likely be more of a problem, especially if you're driving to clipping.
Do you have or have access to an oscilloscope?
Budget?
Are you staying with one woofer due to space?
I don't think you're going to be satisfied with this woofer, no matter the enclosure.
I previously stated that ported would likely be more of a problem, especially if you're driving to clipping.
Do you have or have access to an oscilloscope?
Budget?
Are you staying with one woofer due to space?
12 x 15 x 13.5
No I don't have an osiliscope and I don't think I know anyone who has one either.
Honestly, the reason why I didn't get a 12 is primarily because of space, If I ever get a flat, the spare tire is under the trunk floor and as it is, the 10 is taking up space for groceries (it's my daily).
Budget for the sub + box or just the box or just the sub?
I got my sub, Amp, wiring, and the lc2i for $425, and labor was $225.
No I don't have an osiliscope and I don't think I know anyone who has one either.
Honestly, the reason why I didn't get a 12 is primarily because of space, If I ever get a flat, the spare tire is under the trunk floor and as it is, the 10 is taking up space for groceries (it's my daily).
Budget for the sub + box or just the box or just the sub?
I got my sub, Amp, wiring, and the lc2i for $425, and labor was $225.
Budget for a replacement sub?
There are multiple issues.
You're trying to get more than the sub can give so you're driving it harder than it can take. A scope would tell you if you were driving the amp to clipping (I know, no one in the history of audio has driven their amp to clipping) but I think that's happening and contributing to the problem. Enclosure size was mentioned and isn't helping.
The people trying to sell you a ported enclosure are likely just salesmen who know nothing, or crooks. The woofer isn't heating instantly leading to the problem. Woofers will cause the enclosure temperature to rise but it's not a big deal. The action/movement of the voice coil and area under the dust cap produce so much air flow and the difference in enclosure and voice coil so different that it doesn't make a big difference.
The enclosure you have is just about right to be modified to be ported for this woofer but I think you need a better (for your needs) woofer.
Going to a better, higher power handling sub will help.
Several options are open to reduce the enclosure's size but I don't know what you're capable of doing.
The enclosure could be just about the right size for a 12" woofer so that may be an option.
There are multiple issues.
You're trying to get more than the sub can give so you're driving it harder than it can take. A scope would tell you if you were driving the amp to clipping (I know, no one in the history of audio has driven their amp to clipping) but I think that's happening and contributing to the problem. Enclosure size was mentioned and isn't helping.
The people trying to sell you a ported enclosure are likely just salesmen who know nothing, or crooks. The woofer isn't heating instantly leading to the problem. Woofers will cause the enclosure temperature to rise but it's not a big deal. The action/movement of the voice coil and area under the dust cap produce so much air flow and the difference in enclosure and voice coil so different that it doesn't make a big difference.
The enclosure you have is just about right to be modified to be ported for this woofer but I think you need a better (for your needs) woofer.
Going to a better, higher power handling sub will help.
Several options are open to reduce the enclosure's size but I don't know what you're capable of doing.
The enclosure could be just about the right size for a 12" woofer so that may be an option.
With A higher power woofer, will that most likely mean a bigger box? I COULD probably go for a slightly bigger box if that's what It takes.
Edit: but doesn't overpowering mean that the sub is getting more power than its rated for? My amp is 400-450w rms, and the sub is 400w rms, so it should be matched no? Correct me if I'm wrong tho please🙂
Edit: but doesn't overpowering mean that the sub is getting more power than its rated for? My amp is 400-450w rms, and the sub is 400w rms, so it should be matched no? Correct me if I'm wrong tho please🙂
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This enclosure is just fine for many 12" woofers.
Power handling and enclosure size aren't necessarily related.
I won't ask about budget again.
Power handling and enclosure size aren't necessarily related.
I won't ask about budget again.
Sorry @Perry Babin I didn't see your budget question. Honestly, not too sure: probably about $100-150 ish.
This is the current enclosure from the side: I had an audio shop test a 10" ported enclosure for me.
I don't think you can get the bass you want for that. You're likely going to need something in the $350-400 range to be reliable. Now that the target is known, maybe someone else has a suggestion.
What series JL?
Did the JL do what you wanted?
Price?
What series JL?
Did the JL do what you wanted?
Price?
Not sure on the price nor the model because I asked the guy if he had a ported 10 that I could listen to and see how I liked it. Honestly, I was watching the mirror move and it seemed the cerwin hit harder!
That looks like a low-end WX series (I could be wrong) that won't handle nearly the power you have.
Woofers have no power. The woofer, if a WX, was incapable of taking the power your amp can produce for more than a short time. The WX is rated at less than half of the power handling of your woofer.
https://www.customsounds.com/shop/car-subwoofers/jl-audio-10wxv24
Do you think you could have a defective woofer? The suspension generally max's out before the voice coil hits the back plate.
https://www.customsounds.com/shop/car-subwoofers/jl-audio-10wxv24
Do you think you could have a defective woofer? The suspension generally max's out before the voice coil hits the back plate.
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Ahh gotcha, so my options are either get a new sub, get a new box and put the cv in, or get a new sub + box