Hi all, new to this thread. I received a V1.1b and V2 board last week. I have now successfully implemented both of them. The V2 is in a 1.5RU case being powered by an open frame Meanwell 4.2A 24v SMPS and the V1.1b is in a 1RU case with a modded ConnexElectronic SMPS250. Both sounding great.
there is a photo of the V1.1b here:
dsc01938
col.
there is a photo of the V1.1b here:
dsc01938
col.
Hi col,
Could you tell us what sound difference you can hear between v2 and v1.1 ?
Thanks,
Regards,
Could you tell us what sound difference you can hear between v2 and v1.1 ?
Thanks,
Regards,
bypassing pot
I have the v2 board how would i bypass the pot,a friend told me i could leave it on the board and short around it but i have no idea how to do this,would i just add jumper wires?
I have the v2 board how would i bypass the pot,a friend told me i could leave it on the board and short around it but i have no idea how to do this,would i just add jumper wires?
Thx missed that post. How come the THDs are so nice the higher voltage you use when looking at the same input voltage (signal)?
What does matching the feedback resistors to rail voltage do soundwise?
2nd that... THD measurements for the T3 🙂
If there's an easy (and safe) way to modify the Connex power supply to run single voltage, I'd also be interested. It's hard to find a power supply that's greater than 200 watts yet small enough to fit inside a case.
Sorry, just saw that this topic is already being discussed in the Connex vendor forum. Fantastic - looking forward to a small open-frame SMPS that can be used with the HiFimediy boards. 😎
Also update about T3 here:
Are there any other T3 images than this one? No macro shots of components, soldering etc?
For those who want to short the pot on V2 board, this picture shows were to solder the shorts, one per channel. The two red lines, upper right of pcb.
edit : If you do that, you must either remove the pot or leave the pot a full volume. Not doing so may result in shorting signal to ground and may damage your source.
edit : If you do that, you must either remove the pot or leave the pot a full volume. Not doing so may result in shorting signal to ground and may damage your source.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
to Hifimidiy and Nick122147
Just received and powered a 2.1 board.
Sound good, but C24 and C30 are burned.
What is happened?
Is dangerous power on the board?
thanks
Just received and powered a 2.1 board.
Sound good, but C24 and C30 are burned.
What is happened?
Is dangerous power on the board?
thanks
i performed the short but i get a loud hum when the pot is turned all the way up any suggestions
I am using them in fairly different circumstances so haven't noticed much difference. They both have low noise floor and sound detailed.
col.
I had already bolted the SMPS back into the case before I got your request. The mod is very easy though. I used a 47K 1/2W metal film resistor, cut the legs down, shaped them and then soldered it parallel to the R30 resistor using a fine point solder iron and a head worn magnifying glass. There is a lot of space around the R30 which makes it quite easy.
col.
Hi, I'm sorry for that.
C24 and C30 are used on power supply rail, there is a risk of burned by a voltage surge. please use 0.1uF 50V X7R capacitors to replace with the damaged one and it will work good. Please give me message if you have further questions.🙂
I suggest not try to turn the pot when it's jumped(or bypass), keep it at maxium position is a good idea. Otherwise you will short input to GND, which may will lead to source damaged.
I suggest remove the pot if you really don't need it. There are 6 pads for pot, leave GND pad no-connect, and then short left and right pads.
Input sensitivity
Hifimediy told me today that the input sensitivity is infact 1.5V, not 1V. And the board can take up to 2V without damage. If you need higher sensitivity (for ipod or similar input) you can change some of the resistors at the input (R3 and R5), or use a preamp.
Hifimediy told me today that the input sensitivity is infact 1.5V, not 1V. And the board can take up to 2V without damage. If you need higher sensitivity (for ipod or similar input) you can change some of the resistors at the input (R3 and R5), or use a preamp.
Hi,
did you do the short exactly as show in post #810 ?
I have tested that on my board : no hum, no noise, whatever the pot position. Of course volume is at full level, and pot position has no influence on volume anymore.
And as we know that when 1.5V input, the amplifier will reach it maxium output, which means we don't suggest input signal larger than 1.5V.
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