New TK2050 board

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#421
hifimediy said:
It's TC2000+STA517B mono board, parallel circuit, 30~50V DC supply, about 300W power output(at 50V,4ohm). PCB size is 56*80mm.😀
I post before for advice, and more description will come out in about a week when we public it formally, and I will post a new picture with heat-sink then.🙂
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Thats very cool. I can see these being used to make some killer Home Theater Amps! 😎
 
#422
bambadoo said:
After 10 minutes use the initial sound quality of the board in "stock" form is not good. A slight "ringing" in the upper treble and weak bass. At the same time it feels like "loudness" in the mid. The voice of Rickie Lee Jones feels even more intence. Hopefully it will become better after a while of break in.

I will make a SS psu later for the boards also.
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To me it sounds like something is wrong. You have two amps right, did you try both to see if is any difference? Are the batteries healthy?

I haven't noticed a drastic difference after burn in on these boards.
 
#423
Actually the sound became better after a couple of hours. Alot better. I did only try one board. The ringing is gone and the bass is more "snappy".

Now I am charging the batteries also to be sure. Will try again later today.
The Hitachi batteries I have are supposed to have good audio qualities based on what I have heard. They have never been used.

Does anyone know how long 2pc 12V 7Ah batteries will last on modules like this?

Sincerely.
 
#428
bambadoo said:
Does anyone know how long 2pc 12V 7Ah batteries will last on modules like this?
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There was some info about this some pages ago: link
I have the same size batteries. I would guess you could play 15-20 hours, but I think I have been charging more often. Only thing bothers me is that my charger is making a loud bzz sound..
Have ordered two 6.8Ah lithium-ion batteries which should arrive any day, curious to see how those works.

Why are the RCA's more expensive than the RCA's soldered to a cable?
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I understand that seems strange. 🙂 It's because the standalone RCA are not the same as the ones soldered to the cable.
 
#429
Nick122147 said:
There was some info about this some pages ago: link
I have the same size batteries. I would guess you could play 15-20 hours, but I think I have been charging more often. Only thing bothers me is that my charger is making a loud bzz sound..
Have ordered two 6.8Ah lithium-ion batteries which should arrive any day, curious to see how those works.
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I really suggest you to use smps and to not waste money with batteries. 😉
 
#432
Kpax said:
Hi Hifimediy and Nick (great initiative of you making this board accessibe via ebay)!

I recieved my board for a couple of days and I have let it run day and night to burn it in.

I´ve made some listing comparison to my moderate modded 2x100 sureboard (valab MKP2000 4.7uF input caps, passive cooling, T106-2
coils, stock ouput and tank caps) driven by a 27v 350w meanwell SMPS turned up to 29v.

I think your card performs very well, hard to say which I like best, my modded sureboard have some more depth/3D-sound and
"loudness", your board on the other hand I find more neutral sounding (and perhaps more correct).
Anyway, your card is far better than a stock sureboard and would be the obvious choice for someone deciding between them.

Some other observerations:

* the heat dissipation are similiar (I use a Zalman ZM-NB47J sink), perhaps your board is slightly warmer.
* The gain are close to the surebords lower gain setting (I think the sureboard have 16 v/v gain and yours 15 v/v)

Now to my question: I don't need the volumepot so I'm think of removing it and solder the line in cables direct to the output
holes of the removed pot. Do I instead need resistors (lets say 20k) parallell between signal lines and signal ground to give my
source some load or can I skip that? According to Tripath's application/test diagrams it doesn't seems necessary.
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Hi, it would be very interesting to hear how it sounds like if you swapped to caps from your sureboard into this board. I have used Mundorf MKP in mine, and I feel that the mundorfs have more depth, call that 3D, and softer highs than than the stock caps. The stock caps can seem more pronounced in the highs.


Nick and HifimeDiy,

Can you guys make v2.0 with 20000uf to 40000uf? If yes, what would be the cost?

My Ta2022 sounds much better in the bass with 40000uf.

Thanks,

Duc
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is that ta2022 with linear psu? I think maybe you wont feel that difference if you using SMPS.
 
#435
Nick122147 said:
Hi, in that case I would really suggest you to waste some time with batteries. ;-) I think they sound slightly better than smps.
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I don't like batteries for some extra-audio reasons (environmental pollution, discomfort etc.), although I'm an RC modeller and I know very well Pb, NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, Li-Ion and LiFePO4 batteries. I'm using some LiPo on my R/C cars, these kind of batteries have got an impressive maximum discharge current and weigh very little (about -40% compared to NiMH).
However keep in mind that lithium-based batteries need a *specific* charger, otherwise are very dangerous because they burn very easy in case of over-voltage during the recharging process.
Pb batteries are much more secure.
I really suggest you to do some search on web about the lithium associated risks in case of improper use.
Bye!
 
#437
Hi, I just got the heatsink for T3, and here they are.

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😀
 
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