I am sorry, but that information is not valid anymore. After one board couldn't take 34VDC yesterday, we have adjusted the new max volage to 31VDC or 22VAC.
That resistorchange was only to make the 24V relays handle more voltage.
Hope you have some other way to power them up.
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Im about to order one now, is the version at ebay ready soldered and built? If not, where to ask for one?
Multiple boards
Sometimes class D amps make additional strange noises when multiple boards share a power supply.
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...path-board-tc2000-tp2050-170.html#post2212812
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I would be curious to find out if this board does the same thing or not.
Sometimes class D amps make additional strange noises when multiple boards share a power supply.
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...path-board-tc2000-tp2050-170.html#post2212812
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I would be curious to find out if this board does the same thing or not.
Would these amps work with 12V batt? (bypassing the relay or using 12V relays). I would like to have the option of using one or two 12V batteries for portable use.
I wish I had read previous posts as my amp also decided to smell. It was on 33V with 8 Ohm test resistors. I kept it on voltage for a while to be sure it works OK.
Rfbc?
What value for RFBC/RFBB is used on this board? Is the input gain set to unity, RI=RF? Was the schematic posted earlier in the thread? Is good quality heatsink paste used or rubber adhesive used? It seems that the TP2050 output chips are barely able to get enough heat transferred through the die to the heatsink as the early Sure amps with passive heatsink and rubber adhesive were prone to burn up at voltages higher than 24v.
What value for RFBC/RFBB is used on this board? Is the input gain set to unity, RI=RF? Was the schematic posted earlier in the thread? Is good quality heatsink paste used or rubber adhesive used? It seems that the TP2050 output chips are barely able to get enough heat transferred through the die to the heatsink as the early Sure amps with passive heatsink and rubber adhesive were prone to burn up at voltages higher than 24v.
I'm sorry to hear that. I had emailed everybody, but just realized you was not on my list because you were the first one buying.
here is the schematic http://steinar.eu/tk2050/AMT2050%20TK2050.pdf
My understanding is that the chip should power off if it gets to warm.
Protection
The spec sheet for the TK2050 mentions an over temp protection circuit built in but it doesn't work at all in practice for some reason as hundreds of 4X100 users can attest to. Those amps are prone to burn up two of the chips due to a slight warpage of the circuit board which results in a poor fit between two of the chips and the heatsink. Sure was eventually forced to disable two of the outputs and sell the boards as two channel amps because of this. So it appears that the heatsink to chip interface and quality of paste is critical. Even so, it seems to me that the circuit temp can actually momentarily spike much higher than the heatsink temp causing failures on an otherwise 65C heatsink. You may want to do some measured thermal stress testing by fixing a temp probe to the heatsink, then gradually covering the heatsink with a towel to find the failure behavior at different supply voltages and choose the highest voltage that still won't fail with the heatsink completely covered. 31v may still be a bit too high of a risk for that heat sink once people start putting the modules into a case.
The spec sheet for the TK2050 mentions an over temp protection circuit built in but it doesn't work at all in practice for some reason as hundreds of 4X100 users can attest to. Those amps are prone to burn up two of the chips due to a slight warpage of the circuit board which results in a poor fit between two of the chips and the heatsink. Sure was eventually forced to disable two of the outputs and sell the boards as two channel amps because of this. So it appears that the heatsink to chip interface and quality of paste is critical. Even so, it seems to me that the circuit temp can actually momentarily spike much higher than the heatsink temp causing failures on an otherwise 65C heatsink. You may want to do some measured thermal stress testing by fixing a temp probe to the heatsink, then gradually covering the heatsink with a towel to find the failure behavior at different supply voltages and choose the highest voltage that still won't fail with the heatsink completely covered. 31v may still be a bit too high of a risk for that heat sink once people start putting the modules into a case.
Is it just a matter of the relays? the sureelectronics board are advertised to work from 10V up. I suppose I can bypass the relays if I choose to use only 12V. Thanks for all your work and info.
I'm about to order one of these boards. From the sounds of things, would a smaller supply like this one at 24v 6A work better for this?
145W 24V DC 6A Regulated Switching Power Supply [K018] on eBay.ca (item 200475424389 end time 22-Jun-10 03:24:46 EDT)
145W 24V DC 6A Regulated Switching Power Supply [K018] on eBay.ca (item 200475424389 end time 22-Jun-10 03:24:46 EDT)
Marchel, look for post #163 in this thread for the ebay link.
That would work ok but the 350watt Meanwell SMPS turned down to31v out would be better,well more powerfull anyway.😀
S-350-24
Unless size is an issue, I would spend a little more and get the S-350-24 or 27v MeanWell power supply.
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