The frequency response of these is a bit up and down in the regions where it counts. It's possible that you just don't like how they sound.
We're talking a drooping response towards 800Hz, followed by a broad peak of a few dB centred on 1500Hz, followed by a broad dip, afterwards, centred on 3kHz. A dip/peak/dip of 5+ dB where the ear doesn't like peaks and dips...
In my opinion they need a slightly lower xover point, bring the upper end, rising response, of the woofer a little more under control. This will reduce the size of the 1500Hz peak by as much as you'd want to design into it. I'd probably shoot for reducing it by ~3+dB.
How do these sound? Wait, I went back and read how you say they sound. Yep, that's how I'd guess they sound. The effect of those dips, either side of the 1500Hz peak, will do exactly what you are hearing. It's like an effective loss of baffle step combination coupled with a peak centred on 1500Hz, two primary things that will lead to listening fatigue. Lowering the xover point (personally I'd go 4th order acoustics LR @ 2khz) will put the 1500Hz rising response directly in the woofers transition band allowing you to easily shape it away.
This would require a complete crossover redesign, which isn't an attractive option at all. A simple answer would be a notch filter before the loudspeaker, flatten the 1.5kHz peak and then alter the tweeter level/use a treble tone control, to your preference.
We're talking a drooping response towards 800Hz, followed by a broad peak of a few dB centred on 1500Hz, followed by a broad dip, afterwards, centred on 3kHz. A dip/peak/dip of 5+ dB where the ear doesn't like peaks and dips...
In my opinion they need a slightly lower xover point, bring the upper end, rising response, of the woofer a little more under control. This will reduce the size of the 1500Hz peak by as much as you'd want to design into it. I'd probably shoot for reducing it by ~3+dB.
How do these sound? Wait, I went back and read how you say they sound. Yep, that's how I'd guess they sound. The effect of those dips, either side of the 1500Hz peak, will do exactly what you are hearing. It's like an effective loss of baffle step combination coupled with a peak centred on 1500Hz, two primary things that will lead to listening fatigue. Lowering the xover point (personally I'd go 4th order acoustics LR @ 2khz) will put the 1500Hz rising response directly in the woofers transition band allowing you to easily shape it away.
This would require a complete crossover redesign, which isn't an attractive option at all. A simple answer would be a notch filter before the loudspeaker, flatten the 1.5kHz peak and then alter the tweeter level/use a treble tone control, to your preference.
no, just the internal phone mic. I've found that it's good enough for this type of work. (Don't try to aim for +-3db flat, focus on identifying a "troublesome" area). A loudness plot will tell you which frequency ranges are potentially more fatiguing.
I only measure at listening positions. Make sure to use the same source for pink noise, and the same measuring position each time you measure.
I only measure at listening positions. Make sure to use the same source for pink noise, and the same measuring position each time you measure.
Not yet, I have room EQ wizard and a calibrated mic.
That could very well be my problem. Once I get some measurements done I will let you know. It's nice to know I have a few options to fix this.
What did you use to take out the peak at 1khz?
How about just allowing for a bit of speaker break in before panicking too much.
Stuffing you definitely need enough directly behind any driver to stop sound bouncing off the back wall of the speaker back out through the cone. All the female vocalists sounded like Toyah on my speakers till I had that sorted.
The other thing to check on is the speaker cable used to connect to the drivers. I used some multi strand silver plated stuff it was only by accident I discovered just how bad it was - muffling every thing. I've now got solid single core Anti Cable from amp through to drivers.
Have fun but don't do anything drastic until the speakers are broken in.
Stuffing you definitely need enough directly behind any driver to stop sound bouncing off the back wall of the speaker back out through the cone. All the female vocalists sounded like Toyah on my speakers till I had that sorted.
The other thing to check on is the speaker cable used to connect to the drivers. I used some multi strand silver plated stuff it was only by accident I discovered just how bad it was - muffling every thing. I've now got solid single core Anti Cable from amp through to drivers.
Have fun but don't do anything drastic until the speakers are broken in.
The woofer only has 3mm xmax. It's hardly going to be a bass monster. In addition - if you have gone sealed in a 7 litre enclosure - you've probably got a high F3 of ~ 70Hz at a rough guess.
Unless you are playing this with a subwoofer AND have your HT receiver set to "small mains" - you will end up with distortion at any appreciable volume. The net sensitivity of this system is only 83dB so you can only expect so much.
A bit of break in will help. Did you check both crossovers are built the same and you have wired up both drivers the same? And wired to your amp / receiver in phase? weak bass = out of phase speaker wireup.
What specific music sounds bright?
Unless you are playing this with a subwoofer AND have your HT receiver set to "small mains" - you will end up with distortion at any appreciable volume. The net sensitivity of this system is only 83dB so you can only expect so much.
A bit of break in will help. Did you check both crossovers are built the same and you have wired up both drivers the same? And wired to your amp / receiver in phase? weak bass = out of phase speaker wireup.
What specific music sounds bright?
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