Ok, a friend of mine came to me to set up a good system for him with a budget of roughly $2000.00 USD, so I began to piece together the following system for his 2008 Civic SI (with navigation):
Sub-woofer: IDMAX 12 v3 - $500
Sub-woofer Amplifier: Arc Audio KS 1000.1 $600
Arc Audio KS 500.1 $500
JL Audio A1800 $400
Front speakers: ID CSX64 $360
Rear speakers: I have not picked out the rear speakers
4 Channel Amp: Arc Audio KS 300.4 $400
JL Audio 450/4v2 $550
(All prices based off www.woofersetc.com prices)
He wants to keep the stock head unit for a while because of the built in NAV unit. He is looking to have more of a SQ setup, hence the reason that I recommended the IDMAX, Arc Audio, and JL equipment.
The problem is that I will quickly use all of the budget, and my question is where are the best places to cut some money from out of the system? Where would you change something?
Im open to any suggestions or changes 😀
Sub-woofer: IDMAX 12 v3 - $500
Sub-woofer Amplifier: Arc Audio KS 1000.1 $600
Arc Audio KS 500.1 $500
JL Audio A1800 $400
Front speakers: ID CSX64 $360
Rear speakers: I have not picked out the rear speakers
4 Channel Amp: Arc Audio KS 300.4 $400
JL Audio 450/4v2 $550
(All prices based off www.woofersetc.com prices)
He wants to keep the stock head unit for a while because of the built in NAV unit. He is looking to have more of a SQ setup, hence the reason that I recommended the IDMAX, Arc Audio, and JL equipment.
The problem is that I will quickly use all of the budget, and my question is where are the best places to cut some money from out of the system? Where would you change something?
Im open to any suggestions or changes 😀
I always spend less on the sub/sub amp but that is just me. You still need to have the sub fit your app, such as if you need a small sealed not that many really get low in them even though they say they do. On the other hand I doubt I would ever use 1000rms into a sub or subs, I can't seem to make or want a high side that can keep up with it. Right now I have 400rms and at 30hz the subs drown out the 4x70rms highs badly. But if you want big subs, I guess you might need it.
I also buy nearly all my amps and some other stuff used or refurbs, I rarely have a problem and buy it for friends also. If you shop you can get a 1kw rms amp for 100 or little more TYD that is brand name. Maybe not best but work for most especially if you only need 500rms or so. I spend more on HU and front drivers, they seem to make the SQ in a system IMHO. I have run $15 subs in the past and they worked great for music and fairly loud in the right install...but no they don't blur your sight. IMO you are going to pay for the brand if you buy new, that is up to the buyer I guess.
I also buy nearly all my amps and some other stuff used or refurbs, I rarely have a problem and buy it for friends also. If you shop you can get a 1kw rms amp for 100 or little more TYD that is brand name. Maybe not best but work for most especially if you only need 500rms or so. I spend more on HU and front drivers, they seem to make the SQ in a system IMHO. I have run $15 subs in the past and they worked great for music and fairly loud in the right install...but no they don't blur your sight. IMO you are going to pay for the brand if you buy new, that is up to the buyer I guess.
I agree with you about starting with the head unit and and then on to the front speakers, and even a 4 channel amp to power them... but he is bent on keeping his NAV, which doubles as his HU. Maybe someday he will end up upgrading his NAV with one that has a good CD player in it.
Also, he was even considering bagging the 4 channel because his NAV has a 350 (i think) watt amp already in it and I just had to step in and not allow this, lol... Im pushing more for the ID CSX64s in the front with the Arc Audio KS 300.4 amp, totaling to about $760. I could get some good co-axles in the back for roughly $200 or less, bringing the total to no more than $960. If we go with the IDMAX 12 v3 and the JL Audio A1800 that would set him at about $1860 plus $140 in materials to about $2000.
I am going to build the sub enclosure, probably sealed around 1.5^3 ft if I remember correctly
I just want to get the best over-all system for the budget he set. Any other suggestions or potential changes?
Also, he was even considering bagging the 4 channel because his NAV has a 350 (i think) watt amp already in it and I just had to step in and not allow this, lol... Im pushing more for the ID CSX64s in the front with the Arc Audio KS 300.4 amp, totaling to about $760. I could get some good co-axles in the back for roughly $200 or less, bringing the total to no more than $960. If we go with the IDMAX 12 v3 and the JL Audio A1800 that would set him at about $1860 plus $140 in materials to about $2000.
I am going to build the sub enclosure, probably sealed around 1.5^3 ft if I remember correctly
I just want to get the best over-all system for the budget he set. Any other suggestions or potential changes?
BERENO said:
First I would add something like a RF 360.2 to the factory setup, which can be had pretty cheap now. This way will have more control over the sound and will allow you to an active system.
Tweeters: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1466 63.50 for the pair
Front mids/midbasses: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=147&products_id=8302 from the makers of the famous Scan Speak Revs. 106 for the pair
For a total of 169.50 plus around 20 bux to ship and this will match system costing 3-4 times as much.
Subs: 2 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=121&products_id=79 218 for the pair
or
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-466 138.24
either sub system with give you some very good output and sound great doing it.
I really like the Arc KS amps also. For the subs I would go with the KS500.1 enough power for either sub system. For the mids and highs the 300.4 would be nice. I would chage the rears. leave them on the factory amp rear channels and keep their level very low so not to degrade the fronts sound, but to add just a sense of space.
I would contact Arc Audio and fine your local dealer and you should be able to get a better price on the amps.
Just one way i was thinging I have a couple more.
Wow thanks for the info!
Anyone else second Here-I-come for his recommended setup?
I think that i might have a hard time having him change the woofers, namely because he has heard me hype them up so much, but i think I might be able to work with him on the front drivers... But what about the the crossover for the tweeters and the mid-bass drivers?
Also do you mean the RF signal processor? if so where can I get one for a good price??
One last question: if you are putting out a signal, but have no speaker hooked up, will that damage the source unit? For example, if I run only the rear speakers on the factory amp, when it is sending a signal through all channels (with no speakers in the end) will that damage the factory amp?
Anyone else second Here-I-come for his recommended setup?
I think that i might have a hard time having him change the woofers, namely because he has heard me hype them up so much, but i think I might be able to work with him on the front drivers... But what about the the crossover for the tweeters and the mid-bass drivers?
Also do you mean the RF signal processor? if so where can I get one for a good price??
One last question: if you are putting out a signal, but have no speaker hooked up, will that damage the source unit? For example, if I run only the rear speakers on the factory amp, when it is sending a signal through all channels (with no speakers in the end) will that damage the factory amp?
BERENO said:
Yes, sir the 360.2 is the upper RF processor.
Here is one for salea and a great price.
http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread.php?threadid=148518
If you go with the 360.2 you will not need a passive, it will allow you to run the system active.
The front outputs of the factory amp will run to the 360.2 as the High Level inputs.
Look at the Arc Audio Flatline 12, it is the cousin of the ID Max, yep it was designed by ID, but Flatline 12 handles more power and with more output.
Please find these things local. Arc does not Warranty products bought over the net. Call them find your closest local dealer.
Thanks again for the info!
I'm not too worried about the output of the IDMAX; it should produce plenty of output, but still retain a lot of sound quality.
Thanks for the info about Arc. I will try a few places to see where I can get a good deal.
Ok, so If I go from the factory amp and send the front channel to the 360.2, where in the system do I put the ks 300.4? The reason that I ask, is I have always thought that I would need two amps for an active component system...
I'm not too worried about the output of the IDMAX; it should produce plenty of output, but still retain a lot of sound quality.
Thanks for the info about Arc. I will try a few places to see where I can get a good deal.
Ok, so If I go from the factory amp and send the front channel to the 360.2, where in the system do I put the ks 300.4? The reason that I ask, is I have always thought that I would need two amps for an active component system...
Depends on what you do, for 2 way +sub you can use a 4ch for 2 way (tweeter/mid) and sub amp...you are done. If 3 way then that is not enough of course. Then keep the factory rear amp hooked up to them if you have rear fill.
BERENO said:
If your going to go with the 360.2 and running the system active (active 2 way plus a sub). The 300.4 will be running the tweeters and the mids. The tweeters on the front two channels and the mids on the rear two channels.
The 360.2 is going to take the inputs from the factory and sum it. if need. Then you have 31 bands of eq and crossovers and then it sends it out to the amps. Highpass for the tweeters, bandpass(high and low pass) for the mids and lowpass for the sub.
Thanks. So I can send all four channels to the 300.4 and still retain left to right fade from my understanding. After Here-I-Come mentioned it, I realize that I already knew the answer, lol thanks again for the info. 😀
ok so when I send the fronts (from factory amp) to the 360.2 they will be read as high level ins. Do I use a "y" splitter to send the left front to both the left front and the left rear channel, and the right front to the right front and the right rear on the 360.2, and cross each channel accordingly, right? Then I send all four channels to the 300.4 and go from there.
I Think I have it all now, but I am sure that I will be asking a few more questions when we begin to get it all together lol Thanks again, you guys have been a great help
ok so when I send the fronts (from factory amp) to the 360.2 they will be read as high level ins. Do I use a "y" splitter to send the left front to both the left front and the left rear channel, and the right front to the right front and the right rear on the 360.2, and cross each channel accordingly, right? Then I send all four channels to the 300.4 and go from there.
I Think I have it all now, but I am sure that I will be asking a few more questions when we begin to get it all together lol Thanks again, you guys have been a great help
I just realized that you need a Palm OS to tune the 360.2 and I don't have one, and I think my friend doesn't either... is there any other way to tune it? I can call Rockford tomorrow and see, but I will check the forum and see if anyone has answered before then...
BERENO said:
It has a windows based software you can use on a laptop also. No need for a Y it will send the input to all output channels.
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