I have a Soundboks 2
(The Ultimate Wireless Bluetooth Party Speaker | SOUNDBOKS)
and the horn tweeter has gone out. (Peerless Drivers - Tymphany)
I'm wondering if its possible to upgrade in the 80-100 price range?
I dont know much about speakers just the basics of wiring them.
AMPLIFIER
Merus Audio eximo® amp switching
3 x 72Wrms class D amplifier
Advanced DSP
Dynamic DC/DC Boost Converter
DRIVER UNITS
2 x 96dB 10” (Ø254mm) woofers
1 x 96dB 1” (Ø25mm) neodymium silk dome tweeter
ACOUSTICS
Effective frequency range: 40Hz - 20kHz
Psychoacoustic sound design
This is the specs of the unit. it runs on a battery but it lasts like 3 weeks for me so more power draw wouldn't be bad as long as it didn't overpower the amp and what not. Please feel free to tell me I dont know a damn thing and just buy the same thing that was in it. Thanks!
(The Ultimate Wireless Bluetooth Party Speaker | SOUNDBOKS)
and the horn tweeter has gone out. (Peerless Drivers - Tymphany)
I'm wondering if its possible to upgrade in the 80-100 price range?
I dont know much about speakers just the basics of wiring them.
AMPLIFIER
Merus Audio eximo® amp switching
3 x 72Wrms class D amplifier
Advanced DSP
Dynamic DC/DC Boost Converter
DRIVER UNITS
2 x 96dB 10” (Ø254mm) woofers
1 x 96dB 1” (Ø25mm) neodymium silk dome tweeter
ACOUSTICS
Effective frequency range: 40Hz - 20kHz
Psychoacoustic sound design
This is the specs of the unit. it runs on a battery but it lasts like 3 weeks for me so more power draw wouldn't be bad as long as it didn't overpower the amp and what not. Please feel free to tell me I dont know a damn thing and just buy the same thing that was in it. Thanks!
It's best to replace like for like as the electronics is set up to match the parameters of the original tweeter.
Have you disconnected the tweeter and actually tested it?
It should read about 3 ohm on a multimeter if it is not blown.
Have you disconnected the tweeter and actually tested it?
It should read about 3 ohm on a multimeter if it is not blown.
That tweeter is flimsy, I can tell you by the picture! Very little magnet...but it's neodimium! But it has that heatsink attached that leaves me wondering.
You can buy a more robust tweeter. That 100 W 'rated noise power' is meaningless, 'cos a tweeter rarely sees 10 W and it's better not to put more power thru the thin filament in the voice coil. Well, some tweeters ( like Morel) claim 1000 W transients...hhhmmm, if Morel makes 4 Ω models ...let's see: a Morel mdt 29-4 ( 79 $) has the same SPL/W/m ( sensitivity) as the peerless, but it isn't provided with a waveguide ( NOT HORN, BUT SIMILAR...SORRY FOR THE SHOUT!). So let's look at another brand: SB acoustics. Realtively new to the market, seems very good. The model I see with the required characteristic is the SB Acoustics SB26STWGC-4 ( 95 $ ).
Well, there you go! ( I never spent more than 50 $ on a tweeter 😀😱)
You can buy a more robust tweeter. That 100 W 'rated noise power' is meaningless, 'cos a tweeter rarely sees 10 W and it's better not to put more power thru the thin filament in the voice coil. Well, some tweeters ( like Morel) claim 1000 W transients...hhhmmm, if Morel makes 4 Ω models ...let's see: a Morel mdt 29-4 ( 79 $) has the same SPL/W/m ( sensitivity) as the peerless, but it isn't provided with a waveguide ( NOT HORN, BUT SIMILAR...SORRY FOR THE SHOUT!). So let's look at another brand: SB acoustics. Realtively new to the market, seems very good. The model I see with the required characteristic is the SB Acoustics SB26STWGC-4 ( 95 $ ).
Well, there you go! ( I never spent more than 50 $ on a tweeter 😀😱)
so the tweeter will play if i put my finger on the dome. but i dont know enough about them to know what that means for it.
That tweeter looks really nice thanks for the recommendation. a few questions tho as a novice. the db levels seem lower than the peerless is that going to affect anything at max volume or change the balance of sound? I'm willing to sacrifice max volume for better sound and more reliability as it doesn't ever get played at max except to show how ridiculous max is (turns to 11 and is said to make 122db). It produces better sound higher and lower than the peerless will that affect the amp and woofers?
And side note if i ever felt like upgrading the woofers is that possible? replacing the amp would probably need to be done with it? but how would battery life work and what not. I feel like it would be awesome to put a mid lower woofer and a full on subwoofer if not boring out the hole to fit a full 12''. I know a subwoofer might destroy battery life. how much more power would it draw with a full subwoofer and is it possible to run a subwoofer on that amp or is it not made to run a more power hungry speaker. If I was able to make something like that work what would I do to make the mid range at the same db output so it wouldn't sound uneven? (as it would have 1 less mid range speaker)
That tweeter looks really nice thanks for the recommendation. a few questions tho as a novice. the db levels seem lower than the peerless is that going to affect anything at max volume or change the balance of sound? I'm willing to sacrifice max volume for better sound and more reliability as it doesn't ever get played at max except to show how ridiculous max is (turns to 11 and is said to make 122db). It produces better sound higher and lower than the peerless will that affect the amp and woofers?
And side note if i ever felt like upgrading the woofers is that possible? replacing the amp would probably need to be done with it? but how would battery life work and what not. I feel like it would be awesome to put a mid lower woofer and a full on subwoofer if not boring out the hole to fit a full 12''. I know a subwoofer might destroy battery life. how much more power would it draw with a full subwoofer and is it possible to run a subwoofer on that amp or is it not made to run a more power hungry speaker. If I was able to make something like that work what would I do to make the mid range at the same db output so it wouldn't sound uneven? (as it would have 1 less mid range speaker)
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It probably means that the dome has separated from the voice coil former, but reconnects when you push the dome down.
If you can take the tweeter apart, you may be able to re-glue the dome to the voice coil former.
Otherwise, its a replacement tweeter you need and you have my suggestion.
Since this has a virtual crossover, if you want to change things around you might need to do some redesigning/bypassing.
Im open to redesigning or anything really as long as it maintains the same functionality (semi-portable, battery powered, loud enough to blow an ear drum)
I have the time and money to make something stupid awesome out of it I just only have the basic knowledge of what speakers go with what and what amp and stuff. That's where you very helpful and kind people come in. If i had the space for it without extending the box i'd have a 12'' a 10 mid range and a tweeter but Id like to hear what kind of work that would take to make such a thing. I have probably 500$ to put into it if its doable.
Things that are holding it back, size-about 2 1/2 feet tall by 1 1/2 wide, battery life which i'm open to adding to if it would make sense, complexity where I can learn a good amount but I dont need a huge project, I dont have audio specific tools I have lots of automotive stuff but no audio. Thanks for giving me your advice and suggestions, this is one of the more helpful forums I've been on 🙂
I have the time and money to make something stupid awesome out of it I just only have the basic knowledge of what speakers go with what and what amp and stuff. That's where you very helpful and kind people come in. If i had the space for it without extending the box i'd have a 12'' a 10 mid range and a tweeter but Id like to hear what kind of work that would take to make such a thing. I have probably 500$ to put into it if its doable.
Things that are holding it back, size-about 2 1/2 feet tall by 1 1/2 wide, battery life which i'm open to adding to if it would make sense, complexity where I can learn a good amount but I dont need a huge project, I dont have audio specific tools I have lots of automotive stuff but no audio. Thanks for giving me your advice and suggestions, this is one of the more helpful forums I've been on 🙂
12">10" >1" not very good -it might be doable singe the tweeter might allow a good crossover point, lower. But the crossover ...oh well, is there inside a passive crossover?
I was going to say initially that a stereo set would be a huge improvement from many POVs. But I would say: leave that portable speaker and start again.
I mean, I looked at the page of the device very fast, but the 'psychoacustic sound" ,as advised, reminds me of some manipulation of the sound that surely happens - the L and R signals are mixed, so in order to recreate some strange 3D effect that is lost in the mix the DSP might change some parameters....well, mostly do a 'loudness' effect' with some excitation in the mid-treble, I dunno...!- and for me it's a no-no.
About the sub, you need at least the same amount of power ( so half life for the battery), and the crossover is done at line level( you need another amplifier for it). The main speaker(s) dictate the power that the subwoofer wants, and each +6dB ( double perceived volume) the power needed quadruplicates...
I was going to say initially that a stereo set would be a huge improvement from many POVs. But I would say: leave that portable speaker and start again.
I mean, I looked at the page of the device very fast, but the 'psychoacustic sound" ,as advised, reminds me of some manipulation of the sound that surely happens - the L and R signals are mixed, so in order to recreate some strange 3D effect that is lost in the mix the DSP might change some parameters....well, mostly do a 'loudness' effect' with some excitation in the mid-treble, I dunno...!- and for me it's a no-no.
About the sub, you need at least the same amount of power ( so half life for the battery), and the crossover is done at line level( you need another amplifier for it). The main speaker(s) dictate the power that the subwoofer wants, and each +6dB ( double perceived volume) the power needed quadruplicates...
Stereo= double woofer, one for each channel. Oh! And double tweeter!!
(And a mid, always welcomed)
Oh, the same ol' story: the target is always great sound thru a system!
Why worry about a deciBel more or less of a tweeter?
(And a mid, always welcomed)
Oh, the same ol' story: the target is always great sound thru a system!
Why worry about a deciBel more or less of a tweeter?
You haven't chosen an easy speaker to start on. From what limited information I can find on it I'm guessing it has an electronic crossover and multiple amps, and some of this might become useless if you change things too much.
No problem though, you'll still be able to start from scratch the traditional way. Therefore you'll need to be clear on what's inside the box, take photos, and be clear on what you plan to do as one thing can turn into another.
No problem though, you'll still be able to start from scratch the traditional way. Therefore you'll need to be clear on what's inside the box, take photos, and be clear on what you plan to do as one thing can turn into another.