That most likely wouldn't work; you're much better off finding a project with available drivers. The tweeter's electrical and frequency response will be different, which means the crossover would need revision.
Geoff
Geoff
I'm still not sure about how you want to power your build, but here's another idea for a passive 5" 'bookshelf' speaker:
http://speakerdesignworks.com/TritrixMT_pg_1.html
As I alleged above, the Dayton Classic series aren't the greatest looking but they do sound good, plus of course Curt's a great designer and gets the most out his chosen drivers. The MTM Tritrix sound good and so should these. A possible disadvantage is that the Dayton dome tweeter really attracts the dust.
For about the same price and cabinet size, a two-way with Peerless 830656 and Vifa BC25TG sounds really nice, I think I referred to it above. May have slightly better bass than the Tritrix, and the drivers look nice. Drivers for both projects readily available here.
I have to say, however, the Dayton RS series look very cool, but they cost double the drivers in these projects. I'd also suggest you have a look at the 'Jonquils' thread on Parts Express Tech Talk and post a question to the builder about whether the new version of the RS150P would work. That is a cool looking little speaker!
Geoff
http://speakerdesignworks.com/TritrixMT_pg_1.html
As I alleged above, the Dayton Classic series aren't the greatest looking but they do sound good, plus of course Curt's a great designer and gets the most out his chosen drivers. The MTM Tritrix sound good and so should these. A possible disadvantage is that the Dayton dome tweeter really attracts the dust.
For about the same price and cabinet size, a two-way with Peerless 830656 and Vifa BC25TG sounds really nice, I think I referred to it above. May have slightly better bass than the Tritrix, and the drivers look nice. Drivers for both projects readily available here.
I have to say, however, the Dayton RS series look very cool, but they cost double the drivers in these projects. I'd also suggest you have a look at the 'Jonquils' thread on Parts Express Tech Talk and post a question to the builder about whether the new version of the RS150P would work. That is a cool looking little speaker!
Geoff
I was going to power them with a Lepai LP40PA but I'm having second thoughts. There's a Fosi Audio BT20A Class D amp on Amazon (I know that's going to make people cringe) which gets extremely good reviews. They both have their good and bad points.
The Classix II speakers you recommended are starting to look very promising. Probably more so than the C-Sharps. I just want to see if I can use a slot port instead of a tube.
The Classix II are perhaps a bit large for a bookshelf, we have ours on stands. Very smooth sounding, great bass for their size; not quite as clear in mid-range as some other options; but particularly good for streaming sources and lesser quality recordings. Paul's write up is spot-on.
Here are ours: look daggy but my first DIY build, very home made! As you see, the DC160s look a bit ordinary compared to the RS or Peerless, we hide them with grilles.
I really think they need an honest 40 watts RMS/ch to drive them.
Slot port should be possible, post a question here which gives the port dimensions and see how you go if you decide to go that route.
Geoff
Here are ours: look daggy but my first DIY build, very home made! As you see, the DC160s look a bit ordinary compared to the RS or Peerless, we hide them with grilles.
I really think they need an honest 40 watts RMS/ch to drive them.
Slot port should be possible, post a question here which gives the port dimensions and see how you go if you decide to go that route.
Geoff
Attachments
I'd actually recommend finding a good clean amp with bluetooth and then choosing a speaker design.
Please elaborate on why you want a shelf port?
I ask because with modern amplifiers using small sealed speakers and a separate small subwoofer makes much more sense, you get a cleaner midrange reproduction and music lives in the midrange and you can always make a bigger subwoofer later on if your sister finds she wants more authority in the bass.
Using 5" mid-bass drivers you could start with a 6" sub or even multiple 5" in series -parallel and sit the amp on top of the long narrow sub box
Please elaborate on why you want a shelf port?
I ask because with modern amplifiers using small sealed speakers and a separate small subwoofer makes much more sense, you get a cleaner midrange reproduction and music lives in the midrange and you can always make a bigger subwoofer later on if your sister finds she wants more authority in the bass.
Using 5" mid-bass drivers you could start with a 6" sub or even multiple 5" in series -parallel and sit the amp on top of the long narrow sub box
Those are great Geoff. Well done, mate! Must be really satisfying to have made something that sounds good. A 40 Watt Class D is no problemo. In fact, it's the same price and gets the same rating (Win, win!).
I found a cardboard box at work today which was about the same size and I thought it was about as big as I would want to go. I thought it was still manageable though.
I have found that in the bang-for-buck category, Class D offer generally very clean output for the money. Now, I can't prove this but I'm a big fan (my own amp is a NAD C338 and it's a killer amp). I've had a lot of people tell me negative stuff about Class D but in my experience, I have found them to be very good, even the budget ones.
At this stage, I'm starting to realise that an amp in a sealed box might not be ideal so I'm looking further afield (see my post to Geoff). I think the Classix II are probably going to be well good enough.
The slot port is just a matter of preference and convenience. But looking again at the Classic IIs, I don't think they will be as practical as first envisaged.
I was thinking of buying this one for the granddaughters speakers until her mother naysaid the idea.
http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/dta-2.1bt2-100w-2.1-class-d-bluetooth-amplifier-wi
http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/dta-2.1bt2-100w-2.1-class-d-bluetooth-amplifier-wi
I have a saying, though I'm sure I'm not the first person to say it: I've never heard a good amp but I've heard a few bad ones. 😉
They're the Peerless 830656 and Vifa BC25TG two ways, design courtesy Ralf Giralfino of this Forum. Very nice sounding, straightforward crossover; vented at the back, but vent can be at front if needs be.
I make the back panel of my speakers removable for repairs etc
Geoff
I don't know if they are easy to find in your area but these SBA kits seems quite nice:
Bromo with ceramic (or aluminium) driver that have a very good reputation
https://sbacoustics.com/product/bromo/
Eka with classic paper drivers
https://sbacoustics.com/product/eka/
Bromo with ceramic (or aluminium) driver that have a very good reputation
https://sbacoustics.com/product/bromo/
Eka with classic paper drivers
https://sbacoustics.com/product/eka/
I like what I've seen of SBA so far but those are a bit outside my price range (yes, I'm building to a price... dayum.)
The PFCR line of SBA is also quite interesting, the SB16PFCR - or the SB13PFCR if you want something smaller - that you could pair with the Vifa mentioned above or a SBA tweeter (like the SB26STCN-C000-4), but I haven't found a kit with those drivers.
PS I like to build to a price too, from my race bike to loudspeakers, and sometimes you have more fun.
https://ampslab-spk.com/2021/03/07/lark-sm-studio-monitor/
This very nice speaker is by Michael Chua of this Forum: I've done a test build and it sounds really nice. I didn't mention it before only because the SB16PFC is a right pain to flush mount due to its awkward shape - so I didn't bother and it still sounded fine.
Cabinet about the same size as Classix II, woofer about $15 cheaper than the DC160; although the Lark SM has a few more XO parts.
Michael has other designs and is a pleasure to deal with.
Geoff
This very nice speaker is by Michael Chua of this Forum: I've done a test build and it sounds really nice. I didn't mention it before only because the SB16PFC is a right pain to flush mount due to its awkward shape - so I didn't bother and it still sounded fine.
Cabinet about the same size as Classix II, woofer about $15 cheaper than the DC160; although the Lark SM has a few more XO parts.
Michael has other designs and is a pleasure to deal with.
Geoff
The same driver is now available with a round shape
https://sbacoustics.com/product/6-sb16pfcr25-8-paper/
In Oz?
Edit: yes!
https://www.wagneronline.com.au/sb-...speaker-drivers/audio-speakers-pa/1005910/fl/
$4 dearer than the pfc but much less swear word output.
Geoff
I don't call $90- a driver exactly budget tho.
My idea of a budget driver is Jaycar at $25- each
Vifa Logic are not as good probably but half the cost for a first project.
http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/bc18sg08-08-vifa-6-magnetically-shielded
My idea of a budget driver is Jaycar at $25- each
Vifa Logic are not as good probably but half the cost for a first project.
http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/bc18sg08-08-vifa-6-magnetically-shielded
The SB16 (6") polymer frame woofers are either $42 or $46, which isn't too bad; and there are proved projects with them, which is important for a first build. They sound really good for the damage, too.
At least on paper, the SB16s seem to have a much smoother and more extended response than Jaycar's 'Response' brand and they're only a few $ dearer than the Response 6" drivers. Some time ago, Jaycar had 6" Vifa PW17 woofers on sale for $10 each (!) and the venerable D25ag tweeter for $12, now they were true bargains.
Geoff