New member here. First post... where to start with 2-way bookshelf speakers...?

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#22
The speaker cited above would indeed sound good, but I don't think the tweeters are available here. The late LouC was a noted and respected designer.

I know there will be some discussion about it but I think it's preferable to get drivers from local suppliers.

If you build a documented and well regarded design, and use the same cabinet dimensions (usually you can go up to 10% smaller or larger without issues) etc you don't need to worry about the crossover: the hard work has been done for you. The simplest XO I can think of from some of the projects linked above is that for Curt Campbell's "Tritrix" MT which uses Dayton Classic mids and tweeters, but the XO for the 830656/BC25TG is only a little more complex, with just one extra part.

If it's the assembly and soldering which worries you: if I can do it, anyone can. People here could help you calculate a slot port size if you want to do that.

As for cast v stamped, I haven't had an issue with the Peerless drivers, once you screw them down - and you should use some sort of gasket - there's no issue for me, anyway. Plus, and this is good for me, you don't need to countersink them! Value!

Geoff
 
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#23
GeoffMillar said:
The speaker cited above would indeed sound good, but I don't think the tweeters are available here. The late LouC was a noted and respected designer.

I know there will be some discussion about it but I think it's preferable to get drivers from local suppliers.

If you build a documented and well regarded design, and use the same cabinet dimensions (usually you can go up to 10% smaller or larger without issues) etc you don't need to worry about the crossover: the hard work has been done for you. The simplest XO I can think of from some of the projects linked above is that for Curt Campbell's "Tritrix" MT which uses Dayton Classic mids and tweeters, but the XO for the 830656/BC25TG is only a little more complex, with just one extra part.

If it's the assembly and soldering which worries you: if I can do it, anyone can. People here could help you calculate a slot port size if you want to do that.

As for cast v stamped, I haven't had an issue with the Peerless drivers, once you screw them down - and you should use some sort of gasket - there's no issue for me, anyway. Plus, and this is good for me, you don't need to countersink them! Value!

Geoff
Click to expand...
You mean the Veeper? I had a look and couldn't find that tweeter either but the small size interests me, as well as the combination. I reckon it would work with a small Class D.

Thanks for your offer to solder! Really kind of you. I can solder well enough to do this but I don't know how to make the crossover design software work for me. If I can crack that nut, I should be good but thanks again. I was actually pleasantly surprised at how small that enclosure was for a 6.5 inch driver.

In the meantime, that design with an alternative tweeter would probably be good.

The only think I was hoping for was a slotted port. I have a question about that. If the capture area and the length of the port are the same, it should work, right? My thinking is that as long as the internal dimensions and the port dimensions are the same, the speaker should still work...?

I'm planning to countersink the drivers unless they are a truncated design.
 
#25
An alternative to rebating a driver is the use of good quality felt on the baffle, or at least I read that this is so.
Felt is so much easier to cut to size with a sharp craft knife than using a router but it is more expensive if it's pure wool felt, I intend to use it on my current project; if I can't afford wool felt I'll use the synthetic alternative, you may like to consider this alternative for truncated drivers.
 
#26
Yeah...but you know the look. Put felt on a Suzuki and you have not a Porsche...

🙂 But what you say makes me think basotec melamine 3M foam (the material of the magic sponge) is what is working for sound and can be cut.
 

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#27
J.D. said:
I can solder well enough to do this but I don't know how to make the crossover design software work for me. If I can crack that nut, I should be good but thanks again. I was actually pleasantly surprised at how small that enclosure was for a 6.5 inch driver.

In the meantime, that design with an alternative tweeter would probably be good.

The only think I was hoping for was a slotted port. I have a question about that. If the capture area and the length of the port are the same, it should work, right? My thinking is that as long as the internal dimensions and the port dimensions are the same, the speaker should still work...?
Click to expand...
You don't need to worry about using XO software if you use an existing project - which I and many others would highly recommend. There is a way to calculate a slot port size equivalent to a port, but I'm not up with that: others here should be able to help.

On Parts Express Tech Talk there's a speaker called "The Jonquils" by a noted designer, it uses an SB tweeter which is available here. Same size cabinet I think; only issue is that it uses the old version of the Dayton RS150P-8 driver (as do the Veepers) although the specs of the new version, the RS150-8a, look very similar. NB I'd really call the RS150 a 5" driver. It's not cheap: A$99 when I checked.

https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...96-new-project-the-jonquils-rs150p-8-sb26stnc

What size room will these be used in?

Geoff
 
#29
JD could you tell us/me why you want to go with an active speaker using that particular amp?
It's more suited to desktop computer speakers for close listening and it may not have enough reserve power for a larger room, hence the previous query about room size
 
#30
Moondog55 said:
JD could you tell us/me why you want to go with an active speaker using that particular amp?
It's more suited to desktop computer speakers for close listening and it may not have enough reserve power for a larger room, hence the previous query about room size
Click to expand...
I tried using a Dayton DTA-120 (60 W RMS p/ch into 4 ohms) to power my Classix II and Peerless 830656 two ways; it didn't have anywhere enough power for a small room. I think the Lepai might be less powerful than the Dayton?

Geoff
 
#31
GeoffMillar said:
I tried using a Dayton DTA-120 (60 W RMS p/ch into 4 ohms) to power my Classix II and Peerless 830656 two ways; it didn't have anywhere enough power for a small room. I think the Lepai might be less powerful than the Dayton?

Geoff
Click to expand...
The room is about 5x5 but my sister doesn't play loud. I figure as long as I keep the speakers under 100 watts, it should be enough. After all, if a speaker can make 85 dB off just one watt...

The attraction of that amplifier is the simplicity of the inputs: one 3.5mm jack and Bluetooth and the small size in the box..
 
#32
Moondog55 said:
JD could you tell us/me why you want to go with an active speaker using that particular amp?
It's more suited to desktop computer speakers for close listening and it may not have enough reserve power for a larger room, hence the previous query about room size
Click to expand...
See my reply to Geoff. I expect she would probably run her TV through them but she doesn't use home theatre stuff.
 
#35
I don't have experience with powered speakers, I'm afraid, so can't assist you there. I've seen the Soundblab designs on YouTube, but of those I've seen, the drivers aren't available here anyway. I'd stick to proved, well documented and/or reviewed projects with locally available drivers, such as those linked in previous posts. They'll give you more than enough choices if that's the way you want to go.

Geoff
 
#40
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