Finally got around to start building a pair of these for the CHR70 I purchased a few months back. I'm building the single driver versions in each cabinet and have my daughter helping me. Or maybe I'm helping her... She will take them with her when she goes back to college.
The sides are 11 ply 3/4 in wood from Lowes and appears to be void free and chamber, bottoms, tops and back are a red oak plywood that I had left over from another project. Local supplier for BB has closed their doors.
Economy has not been kind to smaller lumber companies
What do I use for lining and which sides do I put it on?
What is best way to stabilize each speaker, sand or outriggers?
Thanks, I'll probably have more questions as I get further into project.
The sides are 11 ply 3/4 in wood from Lowes and appears to be void free and chamber, bottoms, tops and back are a red oak plywood that I had left over from another project. Local supplier for BB has closed their doors.
Economy has not been kind to smaller lumber companies
What do I use for lining and which sides do I put it on?
What is best way to stabilize each speaker, sand or outriggers?
Thanks, I'll probably have more questions as I get further into project.
Bruce,
I think that the sand in the bottom really helps. That's how I did mine and I've not had a problem with them tipping. I've been thinking about a small base for the Coniston cabinets since they are a a little higher. Maybe you could do something similar? Not sure how much it would change anything.
PS: What was the lumber place that closed down?
I think that the sand in the bottom really helps. That's how I did mine and I've not had a problem with them tipping. I've been thinking about a small base for the Coniston cabinets since they are a a little higher. Maybe you could do something similar? Not sure how much it would change anything.
PS: What was the lumber place that closed down?
Line as you would a bass reflex.
Minimally this means 3 faces of the inside of the chamber (ie top baffle 1 side) with 1 - 1.5" fiberglass. I line all sides with 1/2" recycled cotton felt. From there you can play with more lining or poly fluff stuffing.
Whatever you do, do not block the ports.
dave
Minimally this means 3 faces of the inside of the chamber (ie top baffle 1 side) with 1 - 1.5" fiberglass. I line all sides with 1/2" recycled cotton felt. From there you can play with more lining or poly fluff stuffing.
Whatever you do, do not block the ports.
dave
Dave, are you talking about the pink fiberglass sold in rolls or something else?
Been gluing parts tonight. It's looking good and trying some different stains. My girl likes that grey stain that Ian444 put on his build.
I'm also thinking about receiver or amp to use. She will source from a turntable or Macbook. I probably will give her my Sonic T to use but been looking at older "vintage" receivers that can drive these 4ohm speakers.
Steven, Waxahachie Building Supply, Bought all the lumber from them to build my house 5 years ago.
Been gluing parts tonight. It's looking good and trying some different stains. My girl likes that grey stain that Ian444 put on his build.
I'm also thinking about receiver or amp to use. She will source from a turntable or Macbook. I probably will give her my Sonic T to use but been looking at older "vintage" receivers that can drive these 4ohm speakers.
Steven, Waxahachie Building Supply, Bought all the lumber from them to build my house 5 years ago.
That works. The stuff that comes out of old speakers is usually yellow. I think i saw some green stuff at HD. If you can't source the 1/2" cotton felt.
dave
All glued up except for one side. Drivers are in, running with macbook and
t- amp in garage and going to let them break in overnight and then put in stuffing and finish them up over next couple of days.
Sound is pretty good as I listen to them to now in garage.
Got that Canadian weather blowing in and it's freezing here in Tejas, I used to live in Chicago area not used to it anymore.
t- amp in garage and going to let them break in overnight and then put in stuffing and finish them up over next couple of days.
Sound is pretty good as I listen to them to now in garage.
Got that Canadian weather blowing in and it's freezing here in Tejas, I used to live in Chicago area not used to it anymore.
Finally finished these up before I sent them with my daughter back to college. They sound great sourced from my G5 to T-amp in my office.
She has a laptop and turntable so I found a mid 70's Sansui receiver for her for $50 to use that is able to handle driver impedance. It's a good way to go if anyone is worried about buying these speakers and also has a need for multiple source inputs. I think it may be all of 20 watts which is plenty loud.
It was a fun build with my kid and a little more complicated that the TABAQ I did last year.
For you astute viewers out there wondering if they lean a bit...you are correct. My woodworking skills are poor but the sound is terrific, and until they look as good as Axioms in pic all builds will be relegated to my office, garage or kids rooms.
So,next time.... Measure 3 times not twice, cut all width dimensions on table saw at same time cause if you are a 1/16 in off, at least they are all the same and will glue up easier. I also need to buy more clamps and pick up a radial arm saw for length cuts.
They are built to spec and Dave, if you are wondering, they are braced and have about and inch of pink fiberglass on 3 sides of chamber.
She has a laptop and turntable so I found a mid 70's Sansui receiver for her for $50 to use that is able to handle driver impedance. It's a good way to go if anyone is worried about buying these speakers and also has a need for multiple source inputs. I think it may be all of 20 watts which is plenty loud.
It was a fun build with my kid and a little more complicated that the TABAQ I did last year.
For you astute viewers out there wondering if they lean a bit...you are correct. My woodworking skills are poor but the sound is terrific, and until they look as good as Axioms in pic all builds will be relegated to my office, garage or kids rooms.
So,next time.... Measure 3 times not twice, cut all width dimensions on table saw at same time cause if you are a 1/16 in off, at least they are all the same and will glue up easier. I also need to buy more clamps and pick up a radial arm saw for length cuts.
They are built to spec and Dave, if you are wondering, they are braced and have about and inch of pink fiberglass on 3 sides of chamber.
Attachments
🙂
Maybe if we keep at him, we'll embarass Steven into putting in the brace.
Sansui 331?
dave
Dave, look at Steven's latest and then mine and we all know who should be embarrassed.
......and you Sir, are amazing! It is indeed a Sansui 331.
......and you Sir, are amazing! It is indeed a Sansui 331.
lol, you guys are too much! I guess I'll have to start taking the time to do bracing!
Excellent work; how much listening time do you have on them so far? I know you said that you did some break in on the drivers on the macbook but how long do you think you have on them so far?
That's exactly what I do. I set the saw to the width and then run THE ENTIRE width sections through at one time before I ever change it.
Excellent work; how much listening time do you have on them so far? I know you said that you did some break in on the drivers on the macbook but how long do you think you have on them so far?
I had about 30 hours on them and they were sounding better than first couple of nights i was listening. I'm sure they have been running non-stop in her apartment because every morning she posts on dailybooth a pic of latest album she has.
If I had to describe the change in sound, I would say that I noticed the biggest difference in the bass which became clearer and tighter as time went on.
If I had to describe the change in sound, I would say that I noticed the biggest difference in the bass which became clearer and tighter as time went on.
I'm very curious of this speaker design. Is the size of the cabinet really worth the sound out of it???
I have experience using CSS's fr125 / ERT26 tweeter but really don't enjoy the way the woofer handles the power in the low end...does this cabinet design warrant a better low end response?? and does this woofer have the bright high end or would it benefit from a tweeter as well?
cheers!
I have experience using CSS's fr125 / ERT26 tweeter but really don't enjoy the way the woofer handles the power in the low end...does this cabinet design warrant a better low end response?? and does this woofer have the bright high end or would it benefit from a tweeter as well?
cheers!
yes, all its merits aside, the FR/WR125 do exhibit rather unfortunate behavior at low end excursion limits (at least only auditory, not olfactory as well
) The Lotus was specifically designed for the earlier incarnation of CHR70, and only the author could confirm whether current production ( i.e. CHR70.3) and or CHBW70 and ERT26 would be a suitable mating for this enclosure design.
FWIW, my intuition is that with appropriate fine tuning of driver chamber volume and/or throat aperture, the answer might be fuqyah!
Ya I'm doing a lot of reading on these types of enclosures and I love the dramatic size and simplicity at the same time.
Do these Aluminium woofers have any downsides or require a notch filter in this enclosure?? would something like CSS's EL70 be a better choice?
(i'm guessing that this design is too specific and really only works well with the chr huh?)
Do these Aluminium woofers have any downsides or require a notch filter in this enclosure?? would something like CSS's EL70 be a better choice?
(i'm guessing that this design is too specific and really only works well with the chr huh?)
For CSS EL70s there is a similar design called the Coniston. Slightly bigger than Lotus. You can find the plans on Planet10 website under "Lake District Series" on the CSS box plan page.
Not sure if the older CHP-70 or the new CHP-70.2 would work in the Lotus cabinet - the designers can comment on that.
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