Here's the e-mail address:
http://www.emspeaker.fr/
If you want some help with the communication (french)
I can help you. Just e-mail me.
http://www.emspeaker.fr/
If you want some help with the communication (french)
I can help you. Just e-mail me.
Emspeaker has also a new website:
http://www.emspeaker.com/
From their new website:
Jadis is using the LB7 in their new speaker.....
http://www.emspeaker.com/
From their new website:
Jadis is using the LB7 in their new speaker.....
lrntglls said:
I'm starting to agree with you.
I'm playing with the crossover between my 12" woofers and my 8" hemps FR. the higher I cross, the more I feel a "big, full sound". I find the soudn coming from the hemps too thin when crossed at 200hz, so I set for 300hz atm. Higher than I want.
So, I'm sure that I want a bigger size and LINEAR FR. I have enough of trying to equalize the hemps. 10" probably still ideal but a well done 12" can also do the job very well.
Only one thing worries me a little bit, and it is the distortion at mid-high SPL, with a Xmax of only 3mm (exacly like my hemps).
I think that a bigger driver in a smaller room is ok.
The difference between the 12 inch and the 7 inch is mostly
a choice of the kind of sound you prefer:
you would get more speed and details but a thinner sound
with the 7 inch. You'll like the voices with the 12inch: rich, full.
A greater spl, fills the room. People who heard the 12 like it a lot.
Minimum distortion should be a high priority and these
drivers do deliver. Really too bad that you can't listen to them...
The difference between the 12 inch and the 7 inch is mostly
a choice of the kind of sound you prefer:
you would get more speed and details but a thinner sound
with the 7 inch. You'll like the voices with the 12inch: rich, full.
A greater spl, fills the room. People who heard the 12 like it a lot.
Minimum distortion should be a high priority and these
drivers do deliver. Really too bad that you can't listen to them...
lrntglls said:
Maybe i can manage a trip, but lots of stuff to do this summer.
Anyway, you dont think that toe low Xmax is a big concern, do you?
prices/B15EX
lrntglls:
i have a pair of supravox 215-2000 EXC OB and i thought the B15EX would be a nice option for a big OB set up. but at 750 euros a piece i might as well get a pair of supravox 400 EXC drivers...
i was just looking at your post from 10/08/08 where you mention the price of the LB7 at 250 euros per unit. now the price is 430 euros per unit. that is quite a jump in less than a year!
be as it may, i am taking my time. there are several options.
i am fluent in french but if my emails with catherine get a bit too technical i will seek your help, thank you (i might ask her if she plans to offer open baffle plans for her DIY customers. it would be nice to know her take on an LB7/B15X combo for instance).
kind regards,
alceste.
lrntglls:
i have a pair of supravox 215-2000 EXC OB and i thought the B15EX would be a nice option for a big OB set up. but at 750 euros a piece i might as well get a pair of supravox 400 EXC drivers...
i was just looking at your post from 10/08/08 where you mention the price of the LB7 at 250 euros per unit. now the price is 430 euros per unit. that is quite a jump in less than a year!
be as it may, i am taking my time. there are several options.
i am fluent in french but if my emails with catherine get a bit too technical i will seek your help, thank you (i might ask her if she plans to offer open baffle plans for her DIY customers. it would be nice to know her take on an LB7/B15X combo for instance).
kind regards,
alceste.
Alceste:
....as for the price of the LB12: yes, it was 250euros including
transportation. This was an introductory price....Now
it's 376 euros from what I can see on their website.
They have a TQWT box plan (similar to the Jadis on their website)
that they offer for diy; also they have an open-baffle plan
(this is the Frertin OB plan: 32X48 inches with small wings,
sandwich birch plywood filled with sand).
I'll get the info for the possibilities of the LB7 with the B15
....as for the price of the LB12: yes, it was 250euros including
transportation. This was an introductory price....Now
it's 376 euros from what I can see on their website.
They have a TQWT box plan (similar to the Jadis on their website)
that they offer for diy; also they have an open-baffle plan
(this is the Frertin OB plan: 32X48 inches with small wings,
sandwich birch plywood filled with sand).
I'll get the info for the possibilities of the LB7 with the B15
lrntglls said:
Ragnar Lian, co-founder of Scan-Speak, said -
http://www.audioroundtable.com/Speaker/messages/243.html
Greg Timbers of JBL -
http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=110522&postcount=29
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=54110&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
6460
Thanks, what I had in mind was the second weblink below:
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/JBL/JBL Technical Note - Vol.1, No.9.pdf
http://www.audioheritage.org/html/projectmay/technology/1500al.htm
Pratically, from a conversation with Michel Fertin about the use
of different type of magnet:
-ferrite with copper ring versus alnico: the difference is minimal
if any; some people like even better the driver with the
ferrite magnet. The Alnico would ad cost without significant
improvement.
-ferrite with copper ring versus field coil: field coil you can adjust
the voltage and increase qts. (there's other ways of increasing
qts without modifying the spec of the driver).
I know that they use field coil drivers in their audio system...
Surely not the last word on the subject.
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/JBL/JBL Technical Note - Vol.1, No.9.pdf
http://www.audioheritage.org/html/projectmay/technology/1500al.htm
Pratically, from a conversation with Michel Fertin about the use
of different type of magnet:
-ferrite with copper ring versus alnico: the difference is minimal
if any; some people like even better the driver with the
ferrite magnet. The Alnico would ad cost without significant
improvement.
-ferrite with copper ring versus field coil: field coil you can adjust
the voltage and increase qts. (there's other ways of increasing
qts without modifying the spec of the driver).
I know that they use field coil drivers in their audio system...
Surely not the last word on the subject.
TWQT with the emspeaker LB12
Here are pictures of the TQWT cabinet that I built wiht the Emspeaker LB12.
A lot of work....The cabinets are made using 5/8 Birch plywood. The
sides are 2 panels thick; the bottom, front, top and back are 3 panels thick.
The panels are glued with Green Glue. All the corners reinforcement are also
done using 3 panels thick Birch plywood. To lower the resonance, I use
mass (they weigh 100+ pounds)-rigidity and constrained layer damping with
the Green glue. The damping material used is Kapok.
The plans where provided by Michel Fertin from Emspeakers.
Here are pictures of the TQWT cabinet that I built wiht the Emspeaker LB12.
A lot of work....The cabinets are made using 5/8 Birch plywood. The
sides are 2 panels thick; the bottom, front, top and back are 3 panels thick.
The panels are glued with Green Glue. All the corners reinforcement are also
done using 3 panels thick Birch plywood. To lower the resonance, I use
mass (they weigh 100+ pounds)-rigidity and constrained layer damping with
the Green glue. The damping material used is Kapok.
The plans where provided by Michel Fertin from Emspeakers.
Picture: David put the picture on his website. So this is part of a home theater
project. I want a 5.1 that could be used for home theater and music.
I now have the left-right speakers;the next step would be the center speaker.
Then back speakers and 2 or 3 -15 inch woofers. I still have a long way to go...
www.adriatika.fr/DSC_0818.JPG
Il would like to experiment by adding a 5 inch (emspeaker MA5) for the
high frequencies in open-baffle on top of the LB12. Also , I would like to
listen to the LB8 and then compare all of them with the LB12 full range.
project. I want a 5.1 that could be used for home theater and music.
I now have the left-right speakers;the next step would be the center speaker.
Then back speakers and 2 or 3 -15 inch woofers. I still have a long way to go...
www.adriatika.fr/DSC_0818.JPG
Il would like to experiment by adding a 5 inch (emspeaker MA5) for the
high frequencies in open-baffle on top of the LB12. Also , I would like to
listen to the LB8 and then compare all of them with the LB12 full range.
Now, I'm listening to the LB12 full range with the Fertin amps
(20w-Kt88-PP-NNFB). If I could only keep the smoothness of the sound
(piano-violin) in a home-theater set up; it would be nice. This means choosing a receiver that could be up to the task, not easy; many have a tendency to be on the bright side.
Green Glue: I used 5 tubes for the 2 speakers. At first , I glued 2 panels
together for the front,back, side, top and bottom. The Green Glue is
slippery when wet ( so no tight clamping of the panel); it was important to keep the edge even; this means les sanding at the end. Ounce the
panels glued with Green Glue, you assemble and then you add the third panel, again glued with Green Glue. To assemble the different parts together,
I use regular carpenter's glue (only 1 inch wide where the panels meet)
Front panel: There's a lot of work in the front baffle and no mistake allowed;
if you make a mistake, then you scrap the panel and start over ...
The driver's holes, the bottom vent hole and the holes for the driver screws (I use T-nuts).
The holes were not too difficult to make: a router and a Jasper guide did the jog. I had to learn how to use a router....and then slowly around and around.
With the Jasper guide, you have a 1/16 inch precision for the diameter of your
hole. The main difficulty with the front panel is the vent hole. I had to make
a guide and with a jigsaw cut the hole. This, I found difficult; there must be
a better way to do this...... The holes for the driver' screw were made with a
drill press ( I bought the cheepest one- chinese 90$). I think it was the only
way to make straight holes into 2 inch plywood ; then you turn the panel
and you widen the holes for the T-Nuts at the back. This, I had to practice
with a scrap piece of wood. At first, the screw jammed tight in the T-Nut.
The solution is to make the hole for the T-Nuts 1/16 of an inch wider than
the T-Nut. Then, you screw the screw in the T-Nut ant you tap the T-Nut
in the plywood- then screw some more and tap until the T-nut is in. So, for
the front panel, It's a good thing to take your time and do everything
precisely.....the next step is assembling....
The first speaker box to build is always difficult since you have to learn
how to use the tools and do the work....but ounce you went through it
then, it will take 50% less time for the others...
(20w-Kt88-PP-NNFB). If I could only keep the smoothness of the sound
(piano-violin) in a home-theater set up; it would be nice. This means choosing a receiver that could be up to the task, not easy; many have a tendency to be on the bright side.
Green Glue: I used 5 tubes for the 2 speakers. At first , I glued 2 panels
together for the front,back, side, top and bottom. The Green Glue is
slippery when wet ( so no tight clamping of the panel); it was important to keep the edge even; this means les sanding at the end. Ounce the
panels glued with Green Glue, you assemble and then you add the third panel, again glued with Green Glue. To assemble the different parts together,
I use regular carpenter's glue (only 1 inch wide where the panels meet)
Front panel: There's a lot of work in the front baffle and no mistake allowed;
if you make a mistake, then you scrap the panel and start over ...
The driver's holes, the bottom vent hole and the holes for the driver screws (I use T-nuts).
The holes were not too difficult to make: a router and a Jasper guide did the jog. I had to learn how to use a router....and then slowly around and around.
With the Jasper guide, you have a 1/16 inch precision for the diameter of your
hole. The main difficulty with the front panel is the vent hole. I had to make
a guide and with a jigsaw cut the hole. This, I found difficult; there must be
a better way to do this...... The holes for the driver' screw were made with a
drill press ( I bought the cheepest one- chinese 90$). I think it was the only
way to make straight holes into 2 inch plywood ; then you turn the panel
and you widen the holes for the T-Nuts at the back. This, I had to practice
with a scrap piece of wood. At first, the screw jammed tight in the T-Nut.
The solution is to make the hole for the T-Nuts 1/16 of an inch wider than
the T-Nut. Then, you screw the screw in the T-Nut ant you tap the T-Nut
in the plywood- then screw some more and tap until the T-nut is in. So, for
the front panel, It's a good thing to take your time and do everything
precisely.....the next step is assembling....
The first speaker box to build is always difficult since you have to learn
how to use the tools and do the work....but ounce you went through it
then, it will take 50% less time for the others...
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