• These commercial threads are for private transactions. diyAudio.com provides these forums for the convenience of our members, but makes no warranty nor assumes any responsibility. We do not vet any members, use of this facility is at your own risk. Customers can post any issues in those threads as long as it is done in a civil manner. All diyAudio rules about conduct apply and will be enforced.

New FIFO buffer for RPI/SBCs

I just had a look at my Piano21. There's a 100R+22nF output filter onboard.

That's giving me a fc of 72.3kHz. If I recall it correctly that's the ballpark where Allo
ended up with the new Katana filter version too.

The TI Datasheet recommends 153kHz and NPO/COG type caps for the PCM514x.

As Matt just reminded us: "Allo is not doing everything 100% by the book"

I havn't seen anything about it in the ESS datasheet. There'd be no book. ;)


Just to mention it. On my Mambo DAC I used to bypass that filter altogether...
...and I never looked back. :D

Anyhow. From my perspective subject closed. (Except Greg would like to mention
his latest choice of cap for that job ;) )
 
I received the Katana stack on Wednesday and had been listening to the Sound Quality output stage that was already assembled. It sounded good, but with similar sonic character to the MiniBoss that was playing earlier. Last night, I switched out the output stage to the THD+N version, and to my ears, this sounds much much more detailed. The THD+N output wins for me.

Side note 1: The pins that connect the opamp board to the DAC board, and the micro-controller to the opamp board are not your standard GPIO like pins. They seem to be better quality, but are also delicate. This makes swapping out the opamp board a little tedious. Make sure you apply even pressure at all 4 corners of the boards when removing, and assemble back observing that the pins align.

Side note 2 (question for Allo): I have a 5v 3A PS feeding the Isolator 1.2, but I am seeing that the red LED on the RPi goes out every few seconds, which I think indicates that the voltage is dropping under 4.63V LINK. Any ideas on why?

Side note 3 (old gear): I'm not sure why but (MiniBoss+Rpi3) sounds MUCH better than (Regular Boss+RPi3), which sounded similar to (MiniBoss+PiZero).
 
Last night, I switched out the output stage to the THD+N version, and to my ears, this sounds much much more detailed. The THD+N output wins for me.

Very interesting,
this reminds me on a interview with Daniel Weiss from Weiss Switzerland.
If I recall correctly he said that all Weiss products are designed according to measurement criteria and not according to listening tests.

Matt
 
Side note 2 (question for Allo): I have a 5v 3A PS feeding the Isolator 1.2, but I am seeing that the red LED on the RPi goes out every few seconds, which I think indicates that the voltage is dropping under 4.63V LINK. Any ideas on why?

Side note 3 (old gear): I'm not sure why but (MiniBoss+Rpi3) sounds MUCH better than (Regular Boss+RPi3), which sounded similar to (MiniBoss+PiZero).

Regarding Side Note 2: Had the same problem with the blinking red led on an BOSS+RPI2 setup; it was the wire! I had an anker wall charger with 2 USB ports, and I had connected it via an old wire to the RPI, when I replaced the wire it was all gone. So it might be a wire issue, or a PSU head issue.

Just my two cents :)
 
Folks.

Keep in mind that these USB cables are not a good idea to power
the stack. The cables, plugs and jacks can cause quite a voltage drop.
Furthermore, many of these cables show all but a snug fit. If you simply touch a cable things might get worse.

The situation of course gets worse with increasing load and length of cable.

E.g. The 3B+ causes quite some extra load (approx. 35% under load compared to 3B). A PS/cable that worked on a 3B might not work on a 3B+ anymore!

Not to forget. Dynamic conditions make things worse.

Just tested some PI power supplies. Some start very close to 5V idle.
You might quickly enter a critical zone under load with these.

E.g. My beloved iFi doesn't look that good under load. It IMO comes with a much too long cable - perhaps that's one reason for that behavior. (idle=5.17V @1.5A load=4.86V)
My $10 Goobay PS shows a much better performance 5.24V to 5.02V @1.5A. Its cable is also almost half the length of the iFi! And its plug shows a much tighter fit. On my 20000 mAh Anker PowerCore II and a 1m cable the voltage drops from 5.03 to 4.46V ! @1.5A, without cable it just goes down to 4.99V!!!!

(Allo: Take that as a hint towards Nirvana development!)

(However. I'm running my iFis with a 20inch cable and a 47k buffer cap and its soldered to the PI and Kali-HAT. From buffer to PI/HAT there's just a 5inch wire! - all that changes the - my - situation.)

There've been reasons why I've been pushing Allo to offer an alternative powering solution to USB-C cables. I'm saying it again. Using USB cables for powering a high quality audio device is not a good idea!

Since Allo didn't really put that much priority on the subject.
My advise to the folks. Keep the cables as short as possible. You need high quality cables with a snug fit.
And look for PS devices that are stable and have a little higher idle voltage to be able to cope with the voltage drop under load.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
It sounded good, but with similar sonic character to the MiniBoss that was playing earlier. Last night, I switched out the output stage to the THD+N version, and to my ears, this sounds much much more detailed. The THD+N output wins for me.

That's the nightmare feedback Allo was afraid of. :Ohno:

"MiniBoss beats/equals Katana" :eek:

Wow.

I hear all alarm bells ringing on the Allo tower. ;)


If that verdict is becoming a common opinion, Allo would do better to rethink it's "sound
quality" stage shipment and sales strategy.

It'll save them a lot of money - and potential bad press!


However.
It's just a first feedback. Let see what others think.
And not to forget. The devices require quite some time for break-in.
First impressions might change over time.


Anyhow.

Good luck Allo!
 
Last edited:
Hi,

Rotary encoder integrated and making use of the very nice 32-bit hardware volume controller on ES9038 :)
http://www.esstech.com/files/3014/4095/4308/digital-vs-analog-volume-control.pdf

The mount for the encoder was made out of a section of one of the side panels and a spare part moodeCase front cover that had a double D hole and locking slot for the encoder shaft.

The encoder is an ALPS 688-EC12E2430804 (Mouser) The knob is for a vintage Fender Telecaster.

-Tim

Nice work Tim! Love Tele Touch! Is the ess hardware volume on the Katana controllable by default from the software?
 
@cdsgames.

Slighty off topic: While waiting patiently for Katana, I'm still playing around with my Kali/Piano21 setup...
... and it's not that I dislike that setup - - not at all.
I actually recently managed to squeeze a little more out of it and really enjoy that setup.

While doing so...

...I was wondering if the outptut filter mod you introduced to Katana would also apply to the other Allo dacs such as Piano2.1/Boss ?

If I recall it correctly you just lowered the cutoff frequency on the Katana filter, didn't you!?!?

If so -- since we're t DIY-Audio over here -- you might want to share which parts at what values and types would have to be swapped for a little upgrade on e.g. the Piano21.

Thx


We have a cutoff frequency at 100Khz instead of 150Khz as per datasheet.
 
I received the Katana stack on Wednesday and had been listening to the Sound Quality output stage that was already assembled. It sounded good, but with similar sonic character to the MiniBoss that was playing earlier. Last night, I switched out the output stage to the THD+N version, and to my ears, this sounds much much more detailed. The THD+N output wins for me.

Side note 1: The pins that connect the opamp board to the DAC board, and the micro-controller to the opamp board are not your standard GPIO like pins. They seem to be better quality, but are also delicate. This makes swapping out the opamp board a little tedious. Make sure you apply even pressure at all 4 corners of the boards when removing, and assemble back observing that the pins align.

Side note 2 (question for Allo): I have a 5v 3A PS feeding the Isolator 1.2, but I am seeing that the red LED on the RPi goes out every few seconds, which I think indicates that the voltage is dropping under 4.63V LINK. Any ideas on why?

Side note 3 (old gear): I'm not sure why but (MiniBoss+Rpi3) sounds MUCH better than (Regular Boss+RPi3), which sounded similar to (MiniBoss+PiZero).


2. We are using diodes to protect the rails , we calculated to be at about 4.8V. You might see the led flashing but software will not indicate any undervoltage.


3.I cannot say why ,but Boss 1.2 is a step above old Boss
 
That's the nightmare feedback Allo was afraid of. :Ohno:

"MiniBoss beats/equals Katana" :eek:

Wow.

I hear all alarm bells ringing on the Allo tower. ;)


If that verdict is becoming a common opinion, Allo would do better to rethink it's "sound
quality" stage shipment and sales strategy.

It'll save them a lot of money - and potential bad press!


However.
It's just a first feedback. Let see what others think.
And not to forget. The devices require quite some time for break-in.
First impressions might change over time.


Anyhow.

Good luck Allo!




No alarm bells Soundcheck . Different setups and personal preferences are in play. Katana 1.2 was tested for sound quality extensively on both THD+N and SQ boards. Yes board takes a few days to open up because of the supercaps and film (or maybe just getting used to the sound)



As we are shipping everyday , many reviews and opinions will be up. We welcome all of them
 
Nice work Tim! Love Tele Touch! Is the ess hardware volume on the Katana controllable by default from the software?

Yes, just set the Volume control option in MPD config to Hardware :)

-Tim
 

Attachments

  • moode-r44d-mpd-config.jpg
    moode-r44d-mpd-config.jpg
    59.7 KB · Views: 420
The beefy Katana 1.2

Received it last night... had to travel 200 miles to pick it up and encountered slight altercation with Saudi Postal personnel.. but worth it.:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:

Im still breaking it in to allow optimal SQ as recommended. Contrary to the earlier remarks, i found the unbroken-in sound to be leaner than the Katana v1. I am yet to verify this in terms of clarity with my Marantz HD DAC - USBRIDGE with ifi purifier & jitter bug in the chain which slightly overtook the tripowered Katana v1.

First impression on the katana v1.2 (fresh from the box) using the SQ optimized OPAMP.. Hugh Masekala's Stimela attained the same chocho train realism when I first heard it in Chord Hugo 2 DAC ($2500). The hasp of Masekala's voice was awesome. I am yet to listen on more tracks. 24 hrs of break in may not be sufficient.

I also notice the blinking red LED in the Pi side after Isolator v1.2. I really need to understand why this is the case on my RPi 3b+. :eek:


All in all. Great job allo.:D:D:D:D:D:D

The overall presentation of Katana is a value for money with killer quality electronic parts.

Have a quick glimpse at the new Katana here...

View attachment 713740

View attachment 713741

View attachment 713742

View attachment 713743

View attachment 713744

Nichicon caps.. (Nice Allo)

View attachment 713745

The complete stack (SQ Opamp)

View attachment 713746