A curved sided bookshelf style using real 'Jarrah' timber sides and back (only the baffle will be mdf, 1").... is currrently in construction.
Drivers will be Seas ER18 + TDFC, I will try the Zaph x-o for these drivers (his ZA-SR71), baffle will be rectangular and of the same dimensions, as will be cabinet volume and porting, just the shape is different.
I think I need to listen to a design from one of the 'gurus' at this stage, just to see where I really stand on sound and listening issues, but I think the driver combination deserves something more special than a 'box' so I'm doing everything I can to keep to John's original design while creating something with a bit of 'me' in it. The construction is actually proving rather complicated, which is fun !!!!!
Like, I NEED more speakers. !! DOH !!!
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now, I'll let you think about how a curved sides speaker can be built out of real timber !!
Drivers will be Seas ER18 + TDFC, I will try the Zaph x-o for these drivers (his ZA-SR71), baffle will be rectangular and of the same dimensions, as will be cabinet volume and porting, just the shape is different.
I think I need to listen to a design from one of the 'gurus' at this stage, just to see where I really stand on sound and listening issues, but I think the driver combination deserves something more special than a 'box' so I'm doing everything I can to keep to John's original design while creating something with a bit of 'me' in it. The construction is actually proving rather complicated, which is fun !!!!!
Like, I NEED more speakers. !! DOH !!!
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.
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now, I'll let you think about how a curved sides speaker can be built out of real timber !!
Andy Graddon said:
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now, I'll let you think about how a curved sides speaker can be built out of real timber !!
Hi, Staves is probably the most sensible option for not wasting wood, /sreten.
Re: Re: New cabinet under construction.
Who is Staves - is he a cabinet builder?
Just kidding.
sreten said:
Hi, Staves is probably the most sensible option for not wasting wood, /sreten.
Who is Staves - is he a cabinet builder?
Just kidding.
Iain McNeill said:Is that like Kerfing? where you cut slits 1/2way through on the concave side?
Staves: The individual wood slats that make up the curved sides of a barrel. Quite an art to make them fit well enough that when they swell up they are water tight. Especially with hand tools.
Sides are done....
As you can see, its a translam. Next step, cut the baffles then do the top and bottom.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/Jarrahspeak.jpg
As you can see, its a translam. Next step, cut the baffles then do the top and bottom.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/Jarrahspeak.jpg
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tktran303 said:Andy,
I'd like to place an order...
regards,
Thanh.
They would cost you a pretty penny. They are hard work !!!
If you are serious, they will be for sale once finished. go email.
X-o will be all Jantzen caps and coils, met-ox resistors. I don't know if I will use the impedence compensation LRC though.
You are in Perth, ie Jarrah country, so you can probably imagine what these are going to look like once they are all polished up and glossy !!
I have to think of a stand design for them. So if anyone has any ideas/pics that might match the style of speaker, that would be helpful. Ideas are always helpful !!
Hi Andy,
I was kidding mate. I meant to imply that your cabinets are lovely,
and you better watch out, you might start getting orders coming in.
A set of 5 would be lovely for HT.
Down here in Jarrah country, half of the furniture in our house is Jarrah. Lovely timber. But too much so I like to work with other timbers like Tassie Myrtle, African Bubinga, American maple etc.
Citroen, Peugeot and Renault are a dime a dozen in France too.
Strange how that happens.
I was kidding mate. I meant to imply that your cabinets are lovely,
and you better watch out, you might start getting orders coming in.
A set of 5 would be lovely for HT.
Down here in Jarrah country, half of the furniture in our house is Jarrah. Lovely timber. But too much so I like to work with other timbers like Tassie Myrtle, African Bubinga, American maple etc.
Citroen, Peugeot and Renault are a dime a dozen in France too.
Strange how that happens.
tktran303 said:
Down here in Jarrah country, half of the furniture in our house is Jarrah. Lovely timber.
Jarrah is really expensive over here, but I just happen to have a few planks unused (got it very cheap), so this seemed like a worthwhile use for a bit of it.
Dad's house in Hobart uses Tassie oak for its structural framing and t&g flooring an wall panelling in the dining room !!
(he used a different timber (darker) for his dining table though.)
You would need to be a millionaire to do that up here !!
Tassie, WA, have some nice timber, we have jack all up here !!
tktran303 said:Andy,
I'd like to place an order...
regards,
Thanh.
If there's enough interest I could crank up a jig and produce a bunch in different veneers. I'd laminate it in the vacuum though. The problem is, everyone is going to want different shapes and a jig is what is taking most of the time.
BTW, nice job Andy.
I am not familiar with this particular lumber. Is there any special reason, you chose it over, let's say cherry or just an appearance?
R-Carpenter said:
I am not familiar with this particular lumber. Is there any special reason, you chose it over, let's say cherry or just an appearance?
I'm in Australia, Jarrah is a very nice hardwood from Western Australia, and I just happened to have several planks of it on the shelf.
magentawhale said:Nice job on those side panels!
I guess you made one curved layer first, and then used that as a guide for the router?
Nope, each piece was individually cut in a jig sorta thing. Part router work, part saw work. Join them together using a brad gun and glue, then go to town with a belt sander.
It looks like a real PITA to use mitre-cuts to attach the side panels to the top and bottom. Since the individual layers of wood on the sides will be visible after the speakers are finished, I would personally make top- and bottom plates that have an equal curve to the side panels, and glue them right on top (and on the bottom) of it.
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