See v3..
Connexelectronic
Thanks for the reply.
I wanted to verify outputs at both 4&8 Ohm and BTL.
Also the ideal VA and AC voltage transformer.
from this thread yes, and probably soon from the forum too if abuses continue and moderators allow such things to happen all the time.
I do not like to reply to provocations and insulting messages anymore. and btw, I'm engineer not vendor. It just happens that I have to sell some of my creations.
Business go on without interruptions and I can be contacted here: Connexelectronic
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Someone else mentioned about the documentation on Connexelectronic not reflecting current shipping products. I agree. This is a serious problem when there are many versions out.
I recently received a SMPS500QRv2 power supply, 60VDC, 120VAC. I thought the output was user adjustable but can see no adjustable pot anywhere on the board. The location and pin configuratiion for the VAC input is changed from the online PDF. Unlike the products pictured on the Connex site and in the docs, the board I received also has no fuse. I would really like to have more complete & accurate information on the product I bought, esp. as there's some issue of whether it is working correctly.
I'm using it to power a Sure Electronics IRS2092 (AA-AB32291V110 -- "2x250W") amp calling for 55~65VDC. I measure 62V across the SMPS500QRv2 outputs, but am getting frequent audible distortion playing music. Not clear whether the amp or the PS is to blame and trying to sort it out.
ps -- Sure's documentation is pretty poor as well, and I'm trying to get more infor from them, too.
If any other members can help, please chime in!
I recently received a SMPS500QRv2 power supply, 60VDC, 120VAC. I thought the output was user adjustable but can see no adjustable pot anywhere on the board. The location and pin configuratiion for the VAC input is changed from the online PDF. Unlike the products pictured on the Connex site and in the docs, the board I received also has no fuse. I would really like to have more complete & accurate information on the product I bought, esp. as there's some issue of whether it is working correctly.
I'm using it to power a Sure Electronics IRS2092 (AA-AB32291V110 -- "2x250W") amp calling for 55~65VDC. I measure 62V across the SMPS500QRv2 outputs, but am getting frequent audible distortion playing music. Not clear whether the amp or the PS is to blame and trying to sort it out.
ps -- Sure's documentation is pretty poor as well, and I'm trying to get more infor from them, too.
If any other members can help, please chime in!
If you ordered the SMPS500QR and look a the documentation for SMPS500R there's bound to be some differences. The sales blurb for the QR doesn't say the output voltage is adjustable.
However, the pictures for the QR and R are conspicuously identical, so the confusion is understandable.
Here's the rub: There is NO accessible documentation whatsoever for the QR. The only SMPS500 variant for which there is any documentation is the 500R. The only pic of the 500QR shows a model with a fuse, which is not quite the same as the v2 I received. I didn't even know that was the model I was getting till it arrived.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is the 500QR pictured on the site -- note fuse.
the SMPS500QRv2 manual is at one click distance from the product page. if for some reason it can't be loaded just follow the direct link http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/SMPS500QRv2.pdf or use another browser, some customers complain that the links are not visible or dead with their browser while I tested with several browsers and works fine for me.
ALL the SMPS which we produce and sell have fuse. Absolutely all. just need to know how does a fuse look like. can be like this: Invalid Request or like this: Invalid Request
please post a picture with the actual smps which you received to see if there is fuse or not.
Compared with some other vendors which try to cut all the corners with each new batch to save costs, our new products come with new features and better performance each time a new version is released without increasing the price and often without even mention about new features. fail... I slowly learn that the fact that this aspect is not praised only draw complaints and food for trolls which turn this aspect into negative aspects while fighting to promote competitor's products.
ALL the SMPS which we produce and sell have fuse. Absolutely all. just need to know how does a fuse look like. can be like this: Invalid Request or like this: Invalid Request
please post a picture with the actual smps which you received to see if there is fuse or not.
Compared with some other vendors which try to cut all the corners with each new batch to save costs, our new products come with new features and better performance each time a new version is released without increasing the price and often without even mention about new features. fail... I slowly learn that the fact that this aspect is not praised only draw complaints and food for trolls which turn this aspect into negative aspects while fighting to promote competitor's products.
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Thank you for the doc, & I appreciate that you've added the link -- it definitely was not there before!! (With at least 2 different browsers on 2 different computers.) I tried many times to find this doc before I emailed you or posted here. I always try to help myself before I ask for help -- the nature of most DIYers.
OK, I appreciate that the product was changed with a... micro fuse. (Does it reset itself or need to be replaced if it blows?) I would know this if I had access to the PDF before. It seemed odd to me before that there would be a product with a different model name w/no other differentiation -- same picture, no manual except for the one for 500R. I really should have got the R version, as I wanted the variable voltage output. but I can still use this one.
There's no need to brand a bonafide customer as a troll, that's insulting.
I bought in good faith after reading lots here and on your site, despite some confusion about product details. I paid for faster delivery & even though it didn't really speed up the delivery, I didn't complain to you directly or here. I appreciate that you make improvements to the products, this is obviously a positive thing, but you should appreciate that presentation of correct and timely information is an integral part of doing business, esp when offering DIY products. I know that you're trying to keep technical details of your products from falling into competitors' hands, but at the same time, your customers suffer from not having this info more easily accessible on your website.
Finally, do you have any insights on the audible distortion I'm getting with the SMPS500QRv2 + Sure IRS2092 I mentioned earlier?
While I have your attention, I'm considering building an 8-ch amp with your 400w IRS2092 single channel Kits for my 4-way active speakers.
The 70x100mm size seems amenable to having 4 of these mounted to each side heatsink of a typical stereo amp chassis, replacing the 3 small 30mm high heatsinks with a single 8mm thick aluminum piece, to use as a thermal bridge to the large side heatsink. The question I have for you is whether it's better, for cooling, to have the board mounted vertically along the 70mm long side or the 100mm long side? I prefer not have have any fans if possible, so I'm wanting to configure the layout in such a way to keep the hottest parts higher; this would minimize the effect of the rising heat on other parts of the board. (The manual might give more information so I don't have to ask this question, but unfortunately, it is not in a readable form on your site.) At the same time, I would like to keep the amp chassis as small as possible -- even though the high power is desirable, the large size of most powerful amps is not. This has to live in the LR where WAF is important.
Do you think 4 IRS2092 Stereo Amplifiers is a better choice? Best vertical orientation of the board would be along the same path as the existing heatsink?... or?
I trust one of the SMPS2000RxE 2000w PSUs would work well enough? (No manual visible for this, btw, only the SMPS2000R)
The 70x100mm size seems amenable to having 4 of these mounted to each side heatsink of a typical stereo amp chassis, replacing the 3 small 30mm high heatsinks with a single 8mm thick aluminum piece, to use as a thermal bridge to the large side heatsink. The question I have for you is whether it's better, for cooling, to have the board mounted vertically along the 70mm long side or the 100mm long side? I prefer not have have any fans if possible, so I'm wanting to configure the layout in such a way to keep the hottest parts higher; this would minimize the effect of the rising heat on other parts of the board. (The manual might give more information so I don't have to ask this question, but unfortunately, it is not in a readable form on your site.) At the same time, I would like to keep the amp chassis as small as possible -- even though the high power is desirable, the large size of most powerful amps is not. This has to live in the LR where WAF is important.
Do you think 4 IRS2092 Stereo Amplifiers is a better choice? Best vertical orientation of the board would be along the same path as the existing heatsink?... or?
I trust one of the SMPS2000RxE 2000w PSUs would work well enough? (No manual visible for this, btw, only the SMPS2000R)
Most of the products have manuals. if the links are not visible try to browse the documents folder http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/ where all are located. I will check other products manuals and fix the broken links for those which are not working. anyway the website software is too old and will be replaced soon.
If the fuse blows means that something bad already happen and should not try to replace it, will blow again. the fuse is there for safety reason. SMPS500R is different product, except similar appearance and power rating there are several differences. output voltage is fully regulated, it can be adjusted ~10% and pinout is different for mains and output. also there are two versions of SMPS500R, one for 230V only using one single large capacitor and one for 120/230V switchable using two caps, and sold in USA and Canada only right now.
I'm sorry, it wasn't reffering to you, the trolls are 20-30 posts behind, most of them never bought anything from us or id they did they do-it for one purpose only, and that's not something to be proud of. and especially in the IRS2092Kit countless threads and some of they will show up soon, once the thread is brought back to life.There's no need to brand a bonafide customer as a troll, that's insulting.
let me explain below.
I know is late, but it deserve an answer. I just gave up answering at that time when I saw what's going on here (no, martin is not a troll)
well, I made the 750W version and tossed in some drawer somewhere...
This kit was done couple of months ago, just days before someone complained that one 1nF capacitor is missing from one kit and for this he had to open a thread and and become emotional in front of everyone. that capacitor cost nothing, could be lost anywhere since is very small. could be damaged during soldering. and is written in the manual that if something is missing or gets damaged to contact us, we will resend or suggest replacement. Others, who wouldn't buy but just try to make noise, have made a huge tragedy why the full assembly manual was not available on the website.all this while 99% of the chinese made boards sold over fleabey come without any kind of manuals, just one barely readable schematic and ambiguous description. Obviously these trolls have a well defined purpose, either to get all the money back while they want to keep the products or they are on competitor side and do the job for them, promoting their products while bashing ours. and they achieve their goals while the moderators turn a blind eye, allow insulting posts to be posted and they only react while I say something against by removing my posts. (curious this post how long will last) I thought that if someone just register on the forum, the first 5 posts will await moderation before will be aired. If such posts could pass, I'm nothing but disgusted about what this forum became lately.
These things made me reconsider my plans and cancel any future proposed kits. It simply does not worth the time and effort for what I got in exchange. From nearly 250 kits sold to date, just one single guy bothered to post a feedback. and two others encountered some issues. that's great, means that the rest of them have no issues at all. no news = good news.
It takes more time to prepare the kits (search, sort, pack the components) and detailed documentation for 100 pcs than to manufacture any other equivalent power rating fully assembled and tested SMD based kit. which is working when is sold and there can't be complaints. I can say that I understand why serious companies are not making kits, while a lot of small ones one man show, same as I was when I started 6 years ago (funny I started with fully assembled boards not even then kits). They are all made by amateurs with a daytime job or too much free time and unable to make a partially completed product or pcb. have no tools, time, experience, components, anything and they just want to make some extra ca$h. that's great, though is not the best way to start.
Default shipping was charged, although I tried to send it with UPS first (I can resend you the tracking # if necessary) and they rejected the shipping, "It contains batteries" (capacitors/batteries/potatoes are the same for those who inspect parcels) and was resent with HK post. I paid shipping twice, in total around 60$, but haven't complained about...
as long as the output voltage and required current is within recommended range for the amp it should not have any issue with any amplifier because the SMPS is EM silent, much more silent than most of the class D amps (even ours class D amps or other well regarded brands are more EM noisy than SMPSxxx(Q)R because the amps are hard switched over few amps while these SMPS's are soft switched up to max. output power, besides the amplifier cables of most class D amps carries switching noise all the way to loudspeakers.
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Mike, allow me to be short in answering this post, is 3AM over here, I just spent one hour writing the previous post, more details tomorrow or email.
please consider using CxD500 amplifier Connexelectronic of if cost is a key factor, CxD400 Connexelectronic instead of kit. I was so impressed by the simplicity and performance of CxD400 than I said, let's throw a smps next to this amp and see what will get: Connexelectronic
for about the same price you get a fully assembled and tested module. while the kits are sounding great when they are correctly assembled (and smoking spectacular when they are wrongly assembled) I'm reticent to sell kits after the adventures which I had before and I still think if I should keep the current kits till sold out or discontinue then asap. each of them were fully tested before released yet there are some guys who can't make them work. If you insist in using the kit, the abandoned 750W version which I was talking about earlier one use an aluminium bad for cooling which can be installed on a larger heatsink. It also has aux. supply connector compatible with SMPS600RxE or SMSPS200RxE. I'll take some pictures of the prototype if someone is interested.
manual for SMPS2000RxE will be available by the end of month, same for CxD400 need to receive some field measurements from a lab to be published and they are moving slower than expected.
Thanks for the quick response, Cristi.
re - shipping, etc in previous post: That's history, let's move on.
I think the CxD500 is actually too much power. My Peerless 830452 10" XLS (2 per side) can only handle 150W each, 300W peak, and each has its own ch, so... In fact, if I build this only for myself, w/o any consideration for future resale (which is sometimes a factor), I'd use ~100W/ch for highs, 200W/ch for mids, 200W for each bass. But it's simpler to use the same for all ch, so the CxD400 looks the most suitable. (No PDF doc link for CxD400 btw, and http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/ gives me: "Forbidden - You do not have permission to access this document.")
The small 60x70mm size of the CxD400 is perfect, actually. It should be easy to fit 8 of them on the heatsinks in this passively cooled computer case (styled after a high end power amp -- and now it will be converted to actual power amp.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
To be precise, the inside dimension of each heatsink is 8.5cm x 36.5cm. More than enough room for 4 CxD400 per side. And assuming the dimensions of the SMSPS200RxE are the same as SMSPS200R -- 12 x 20 x 4.2cm -- it should fit easily in there too, perhaps mounted against the back of the thick aluminum front panel to use that as a heatsink. In fact, I could even shorten the heatsinks by 8cm and still fit everything. That would make a great "sleeper" power amp just 17"w x 12"d x 4"t. Maybe I could even use the great looking power switch -- tho it's a momentary sw -- power a relay sw?
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Cristi
All of your power supplies are missing the 'most basic' of Specifications. That is Line and Load regulation specs. You say that your products are so much better than all the other Fleabay stuff, but where are these specifications? The ones that reputable manufacturers (like yourself?) provide!
All of your power supplies are missing the 'most basic' of Specifications. That is Line and Load regulation specs. You say that your products are so much better than all the other Fleabay stuff, but where are these specifications? The ones that reputable manufacturers (like yourself?) provide!
Yay!
Also Yay! I knew I was good for something.
Hmm... confused about the answer. ?
Hi, I'm considering 2x IRS400SMPS or better 2x CxD400 with SMPS800RxE.
Two questions:
Do you maybe have some measurements from a lab already?
Is SMPS800RxE available to order?
Hi Cristi, I was looking at some of your stuff and was curious about the Car SMPS. What modules would be ok to use with this? Could I run say 3 2 channel boards at lower power (100wpc @4r?) There doesn't seem to be a specific wattage recommendation on it, but based on the product ID I was guessing 500w? I'd like to use Class D modules though.
Which brings me to my next question, Is the CxD250-HP the only model that is built to "audiophile" grade? I'm going for pure SQ in my car build and will be doing most of the rest of the system DIY and really wanted to build some amps and with your car SMPS this is the first option I've found that seems most feasible.
Which brings me to my next question, Is the CxD250-HP the only model that is built to "audiophile" grade? I'm going for pure SQ in my car build and will be doing most of the rest of the system DIY and really wanted to build some amps and with your car SMPS this is the first option I've found that seems most feasible.
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