What pre are you driving it with?I see you didn't make provision for a possible future balanced connection.
Excellent work Pedro even if I had told you before but now it's finished!!!.
The amp looks very nice indeed, much finer than mine which has an industrial,tough, macho look.
What sort of wood did you use for the front panel? It looks like a solid plank.
The amp looks very nice indeed, much finer than mine which has an industrial,tough, macho look.
What sort of wood did you use for the front panel? It looks like a solid plank.
Hi again!
Back from work, done some research on relais...
Since you quote Euro prices, where did you get your finder relais? I come from Germany, and wasn't able to locate the relais you mentioned, or something that comes close, on both Farnell or RS-Components or Reichelt...
OK, got it, found them... Germany's crappy supplier Conrad has them... well, what do you know, at last I will get stuff at Conrad again...
Back from work, done some research on relais...
Since you quote Euro prices, where did you get your finder relais? I come from Germany, and wasn't able to locate the relais you mentioned, or something that comes close, on both Farnell or RS-Components or Reichelt...
OK, got it, found them... Germany's crappy supplier Conrad has them... well, what do you know, at last I will get stuff at Conrad again...
I bought mine at a local regular electrical supply store. as simple as that. the relay is used for corridor light switches!!! like hotel corridors with lots of switches and only one relay.
Regarding this amp of mine. I must say that there is some turn on /off thump.
I read somewhere that its caused by the feedback loop capacitor, but I really don't know witch one is it, or if really this is the cause.
Can anyone help me solve this problem?
The only way I know is to put a switch in the speakears, and use it before switching on /off.
I read somewhere that its caused by the feedback loop capacitor, but I really don't know witch one is it, or if really this is the cause.
Can anyone help me solve this problem?
The only way I know is to put a switch in the speakears, and use it before switching on /off.
Cradle22 said:
They are "made in Italy".
There's a branch in your Country
FINDER GmbH
Eisenstrasse 30
D - 65428 RÜSSELSHEIM
tel. +49/6142/8770
fax +49/6142/87777
Hi!
I also had this on my Marantz, and put in this circuit, and so now it is gone, without sound being affected.
Ciao,
Arndt
You can use a time delay switch, there is a circuit at ESP. Or I could scan you a schematic (and PCB layout) of a cheap ELV design using an optical coupler (?? correct english term) to seperate the DC-offset detection circuit from the speaker signals, together with time delayed speaker switching ...
I also had this on my Marantz, and put in this circuit, and so now it is gone, without sound being affected.
Ciao,
Arndt
Cradle22 said:
I don't know what you are talking about. Could you explain it in simpler terms? I really am not an expert on electronics 🙁
Hi!
I'm no expert, either...
But I bought a kit together with PCB for a protection and delay circuit from the German DIY-electronics-magazine ELV. I have both schematics and board layout available, and the schematic is easier than the one developed by R Elliot (ESP, www.sound.au.com), although not freely available.
But since it is so simple (uses two optical coupler, somewhat 22 diodes, a voltage regulator, some resitors and capacitors and a relay), I think you can implement it, or do the PCB for yourself, or have someone else do it for you.
I bought this kit for the speaker-switching delay, but I just learned while fiddling around with a GainClone that decent DC-protection is something invaluable... sometimes speakers don't come cheap...
Well, I'm at work right now, but when I'm at home, I can scan it, or take a look at ESP (he also sells PCBs for his projects, and ships them worldwide for not very much dough), the project can be found at
http://sound.westhost.com/project33.htm
Ciao,
Arndt
I'm no expert, either...
But I bought a kit together with PCB for a protection and delay circuit from the German DIY-electronics-magazine ELV. I have both schematics and board layout available, and the schematic is easier than the one developed by R Elliot (ESP, www.sound.au.com), although not freely available.
But since it is so simple (uses two optical coupler, somewhat 22 diodes, a voltage regulator, some resitors and capacitors and a relay), I think you can implement it, or do the PCB for yourself, or have someone else do it for you.
I bought this kit for the speaker-switching delay, but I just learned while fiddling around with a GainClone that decent DC-protection is something invaluable... sometimes speakers don't come cheap...
Well, I'm at work right now, but when I'm at home, I can scan it, or take a look at ESP (he also sells PCBs for his projects, and ships them worldwide for not very much dough), the project can be found at
http://sound.westhost.com/project33.htm
Ciao,
Arndt
Pedro,
Regarding your thump!
Are you using a Pi filter on your PSU or an RC filter to your front end FET pair?
Or sepatate PSU for the front end?
What's the speaker sensitivity?
Regarding your thump!
Are you using a Pi filter on your PSU or an RC filter to your front end FET pair?
Or sepatate PSU for the front end?
What's the speaker sensitivity?
I have a very faint thump about 2 seconds after power down....sooooo slight as to not matter. I think its relating to eneven discharging of the rails. A proper resistor on one of the rails to bring the rails down at the same amount over the same time period would get rid of it. But I can barely hear it ,so I've left it alone!
Mark
Mark
Tony,
I basically followed the pass circuit. no alterations.
So, no PI filter, just caps.
my speakers are infinity delta 50, 90dB.
the other question I dunno😕 sorry!
Mark,
Could you explain in schematics terms? do you mean a resistor between V+ and gnd or V- and gnd ?
I basically followed the pass circuit. no alterations.
So, no PI filter, just caps.
my speakers are infinity delta 50, 90dB.
the other question I dunno😕 sorry!
Mark,
Could you explain in schematics terms? do you mean a resistor between V+ and gnd or V- and gnd ?
I think one rail is dumping faster than the other rail is, so a small resistor fomr one rail to gnd to make them both dump at the same speed. Would require some experimentation to get it to work....watch both rails with the same type DMM, or analog scale meter and see what goes on. Possibly caused by the LED draining that rail a little faster.....? Just a thought.
Mark
Mark
I used no led!
I used a light bulb heheh
thanks for the tip.
I'll try it out.
Another thing:
some people put a small polyester cap in paralell with the big cans.
Is this necessary? if so why is that?
I used a light bulb heheh
thanks for the tip.
I'll try it out.
Another thing:
some people put a small polyester cap in paralell with the big cans.
Is this necessary? if so why is that?
Well, hopefully a blue light bulb
......I put .022' films across the cans in my Alephs. Small value caps are better at getting rid of HF noise than large electrolytics are.
Mark
......I put .022' films across the cans in my Alephs. Small value caps are better at getting rid of HF noise than large electrolytics are.Mark
some people put a small polyester cap in paralell with the big cans.
Nelson Pass advised it ... you can read it in his article about power suplay...I think you can find it here
http://www.passlabs.com/articles.htm
Josip
Nelson Pass advised it ... you can read it in his article about power suplay...I think you can find it here
http://www.passlabs.com/articles.htm
Josip
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