Just thought every one would like to see the new addition to my box of tricks
Just got it in today,
BGA SMT Rework Station It has preheat, IRDA, Hot Air and pencil solder iron.
Just got it in today,
BGA SMT Rework Station It has preheat, IRDA, Hot Air and pencil solder iron.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It's fancier than my SMD rework station. 🙂
And the deluxe model with the aluminum foil light shield.
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And the deluxe model with the aluminum foil light shield.

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Well so far i have managed to cook 2 xbox boards tonight, just trying my hand at reflowing the CPU and GPU. lucky me there were given to me as junk. guess i got spair parts now :O I had no idea of what temp profile to use when working on this stuff.
Good news is i did get one of the three i had working.. 🙂 i tell you what the asian guy on youtube made the GBA work look easy!
I also Pulled the video card from my linux box and added 64 more megs of ram to it.. robbed the parts from a card just like it that had bad GPU.. the flat packs are a lot easyer than the GBA packs.
just need more boards to pratice GBA reflow on. there is a few bucks to be made working on all these dead game consoles around, most of them just need reflow as they were over heated at some point and the chips partially come off the board. I want to have the process down before i do any repairs for customers would hate to be put on the spot to replace a item i burnt up or pulled lans from the board.
S. Rock
Good news is i did get one of the three i had working.. 🙂 i tell you what the asian guy on youtube made the GBA work look easy!
I also Pulled the video card from my linux box and added 64 more megs of ram to it.. robbed the parts from a card just like it that had bad GPU.. the flat packs are a lot easyer than the GBA packs.
just need more boards to pratice GBA reflow on. there is a few bucks to be made working on all these dead game consoles around, most of them just need reflow as they were over heated at some point and the chips partially come off the board. I want to have the process down before i do any repairs for customers would hate to be put on the spot to replace a item i burnt up or pulled lans from the board.
S. Rock
Have you seen this site:
http://www.solder.net/technical/tips.asp
And their BGA stencils:
http://www.solder.net/stencilquik/default.asp
http://www.solder.net/technical/tips.asp
And their BGA stencils:
http://www.solder.net/stencilquik/default.asp
Perry,
what's the rating of that bulb?
haven't thought of that. been living off working with hot air and no board pre-heating.
how much does board pre-heating help?
what's the rating of that bulb?
haven't thought of that. been living off working with hot air and no board pre-heating.
how much does board pre-heating help?
I don't use hot air but preheating helps considerably when using a conventional soldering iron. I've used iron temps below 500F to desolder ICs. As an example, I switched on the lamp and after 30 seconds, the flux was boiling. At that point, I applied new solder to the pins and the IC was off of the pads at ~55 seconds. The iron was set to 450F. The IC was an 8 pin SMD op-amp.
The bulb is a 2057 (Sylvania 1157). Many older vehicles use this lamp as the brake/tail lamp. You could use either or both to reduce the amount of heat created. I generally use both and if I want to reduce the temperature on the board, I either use a 2 ohm resistor in series or leave a 1/4" gap between the board and the top of the lamp.
If you try this, use safety glasses and be careful not to overheat the board. I've never damaged a fiberglass board but if left in contact with a CEM board for too long, it will cause it to delaminate.
This is not a replacement for a true rework station but it's cheap and it's sufficient for the type of work I do.
The bulb is a 2057 (Sylvania 1157). Many older vehicles use this lamp as the brake/tail lamp. You could use either or both to reduce the amount of heat created. I generally use both and if I want to reduce the temperature on the board, I either use a 2 ohm resistor in series or leave a 1/4" gap between the board and the top of the lamp.
If you try this, use safety glasses and be careful not to overheat the board. I've never damaged a fiberglass board but if left in contact with a CEM board for too long, it will cause it to delaminate.
This is not a replacement for a true rework station but it's cheap and it's sufficient for the type of work I do.
since the bulb is cheap, I might give it a try and see how it helps with multilayer boards with lots of ground planes. pretty difficult to desolder stuff off those even with a hot air rework.
I'm also looking at those electric things you put food trays onto to keep them warm.
thanks for the ideas. 😉
I'm also looking at those electric things you put food trays onto to keep them warm.
thanks for the ideas. 😉
FYI
I found some people use a griddle from wall-mart to pre heat game system boards...
Check out this post
they put the board on the griddle (with spacers so the board is not sitting on right on the griddle) and use hot air on top the chips.. this would work good... infact probly better than the preheat i got as my heater is only about 6x6 in the center of my station
Sam
I found some people use a griddle from wall-mart to pre heat game system boards...
Check out this post
they put the board on the griddle (with spacers so the board is not sitting on right on the griddle) and use hot air on top the chips.. this would work good... infact probly better than the preheat i got as my heater is only about 6x6 in the center of my station
Sam
Lol, my inlaw is into gaming. He just told me if I ever get one make sure I buy the fan kit for it. I told him I can't finish the PC games I have.
Ever tried an IR lamp? I used them for drying paint a lot, but distance is important or monitor the temp. Not sure how small they can be found though.
Ever tried an IR lamp? I used them for drying paint a lot, but distance is important or monitor the temp. Not sure how small they can be found though.
Well I tell you this, I pulled some of the chips from the first two xbox boards I smoked with no preheat I lifted pads from the pcb, with preheat set to 175c for 5 min the slowly bring the irda up to 345c I can lift the bga chips from the board keeping all pads and lans intact.
When I did the flat packs on my video card I set the preheat to 150c let sit for 3 min hit it with irda less than 1 min I lifted the chips.
The only thing I don't like and this due to the led free solder is the bga chips take almost 100c more from the irda than a flatpack smt.
When I did the flat packs on my video card I set the preheat to 150c let sit for 3 min hit it with irda less than 1 min I lifted the chips.
The only thing I don't like and this due to the led free solder is the bga chips take almost 100c more from the irda than a flatpack smt.
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