My mistake.
For North America the safest route is to properly ground your equipment, use a three wire power cord, use a power entry module that fuses the hot line only, and check your wall outlet for correct wiring.
For North America the safest route is to properly ground your equipment, use a three wire power cord, use a power entry module that fuses the hot line only, and check your wall outlet for correct wiring.
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In a lot of countries in Europe, the wall sockets / power plugs are not polarized (for example, "Schuko" plugs used in Germany, large parts of Italy, etc.).
So you never know if you actually have your fuse on the live or neutral line.
That's one of the reasons why it is so important that we securely bolt PE (Protective Earth, the yellow-green wire) to the chassis immediately and direct after the power entry. That way, if a live connection touches the chassis, it will trip the house circuit breaker, removing power to the amp.
Regards, Claas
So you never know if you actually have your fuse on the live or neutral line.
That's one of the reasons why it is so important that we securely bolt PE (Protective Earth, the yellow-green wire) to the chassis immediately and direct after the power entry. That way, if a live connection touches the chassis, it will trip the house circuit breaker, removing power to the amp.
Regards, Claas
intojazz, I mistakenly pointed to an article that had been linked previously and discussed. The suggestion of one size larger fuse for neutral was questioned. So be wary.
In North America, I think the best way is to use a power entry module with a fuse on the hot line only, and make sure your wall outlet is wired correctly. There is no confusion when there is only one fuse.
If you have fuses in both hot and neutral, mistakes can be made with the fuses. That is why I only use single fuses in my projects. For me I want my projects to be as safe as possible, and if they are ever used by others, that I do not put them at risk.
In North America, I think the best way is to use a power entry module with a fuse on the hot line only, and make sure your wall outlet is wired correctly. There is no confusion when there is only one fuse.
If you have fuses in both hot and neutral, mistakes can be made with the fuses. That is why I only use single fuses in my projects. For me I want my projects to be as safe as possible, and if they are ever used by others, that I do not put them at risk.
Late comer... But here's something:
I have a Carver C11. Fuse is on mains neutral. This is a European model with 230V preset.
The fuse is that weird kind with a resistor.
Bob Carver had unusual ideas.
I have a Carver C11. Fuse is on mains neutral. This is a European model with 230V preset.
The fuse is that weird kind with a resistor.
Bob Carver had unusual ideas.
In North America, the USA, there is no question as to fusing, your comment - "I think the best way" is the only way, per current, strict, Electrical Codes, unless you want to be liable for any issues/damage/ lawsuits etc involved in improper wiring of domestic products.
As to Kaibosher's post #28 about that Carver C11, he's either mistaken of the fuse location, or that C11's been previously tampered with and needs immediate corrective repair.
People on here and other online sites really need to read and understand the Electrical Codes of their locality, and if building something, it must be done with that in mind, not asked around from others who are not familier with codes.
You just can't "dream up" your own concoction of how things are done.
100% correct .. follow the electrical codes or get someone qualified. No argument.
My C11 is definitely neutral fused from factory. Years since I had it out, but the issue will be addressed soon.
