The iec socket on the F6 amplifier uses a fuse on both the line and neutral. Should the neutral pole have a larger amperage fuse?
If the product is an audio item, you need to fit one of those £25 audio grade fuses in the neutral , observing correct orientation of course..
This will prevent any stray audio grade electrons from getting back to the substation.
Any fuse can be fitted in the live obviously because the power hasn’t been subjected to audio ..
This will prevent any stray audio grade electrons from getting back to the substation.
Any fuse can be fitted in the live obviously because the power hasn’t been subjected to audio ..
I read that there is a circumstance where the neutral fuse should be one size larger.
Double Fusing or Fusing Both Sides of the Line - In Compliance Magazine
Double Fusing or Fusing Both Sides of the Line - In Compliance Magazine
It does apply to "polarized systems" and perhaps the experts can put this into context.
You're saying it applies to polarised systems, but makes no mention of the neutral fuse in the polarised system scenario stated....
I'm not saying it, the article says it. In fact, it refers to polarized and non-polarized systems.
I am asking the experts to put it into context as I don't understand it yet.
I am asking the experts to put it into context as I don't understand it yet.
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I meant you said it applied to polarised (which the article stated) , but the article said the rest (if that makes sense)
For a polarised system the article doesn't make sense, it says choose a fuse (larger) for the neutral , but only states what the neutral fuse protects in a non-polarised system...
As I see it if the phase/neutral is reversed, the hitherto neutral fuse now takes the job on on the live fuse uprating its value in the same breath, and downrating the hitherto live fuse at the same time...
The statement you quoted contradicts itself.
I read a thread about this some time ago (6L6 involved there, among others—andrewT maybe) and believe to recollect that the fuse on the neutral was said to be a bad idea, and should be upped in value, but in case of reversed polarities (wrong installation etc) becomes the primary fuse and then would be even deader wrong?
In North America the wall socket has dedicated hot, neutral, and ground connection points and the plug at the end of the electrical cord has dedicated prongs also. There is only one way to insert the plug into the socket. So a properly wired wall socket and electrical appliance would have identified hot, neutral, and ground connections within. In this system the hot is live with electricity and the neutral is connected to earth ground.
The proper location for the fuse within the amplifier is directly at the hot line after it enters the amplifier chassis. This way if an electrical fault occurs, the fuse blows and no live AC enters the chassis.
If the fuse is connected to the neutral line instead of the hot line, the fuse will blow if an electrical fault occurs, but the amplifier would still be live as the hot line is still active and the ground, which is connected to the neutral, is still active.
So then we come to the situation with identical fuses in the hot and neutral. If during an electrical fault the fuse in the hot line blows, then it has done its job. But if the fuse in the neutral line blows, then the chassis is still live. So the theory is that if a much higher value fuse is in the neutral line an electrical fault would force the lower value fuse in the hot line to blow.
Of course this is all dependent on proper installation but that applies to all aspects of diy. To be safe the wall socket should be checked for proper wiring too.
The proper location for the fuse within the amplifier is directly at the hot line after it enters the amplifier chassis. This way if an electrical fault occurs, the fuse blows and no live AC enters the chassis.
If the fuse is connected to the neutral line instead of the hot line, the fuse will blow if an electrical fault occurs, but the amplifier would still be live as the hot line is still active and the ground, which is connected to the neutral, is still active.
So then we come to the situation with identical fuses in the hot and neutral. If during an electrical fault the fuse in the hot line blows, then it has done its job. But if the fuse in the neutral line blows, then the chassis is still live. So the theory is that if a much higher value fuse is in the neutral line an electrical fault would force the lower value fuse in the hot line to blow.
Of course this is all dependent on proper installation but that applies to all aspects of diy. To be safe the wall socket should be checked for proper wiring too.
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Thank you Ben Mah for the thorough explanation. I do understand what you've said. My only confusion was not having seen a socket that was "fused" on both hot and neutral, ever. Also a thread read here in these forums suggesting a fuse of several times the size that of the "hot" would be prudent.
Thanks again
Thanks again
You live in the USA, correct?
If that's the case, the usual requirement (per electrical codes) is to fuse the hot side of the line, keeping the neutral + ground direct.
This is in tune with using a polarized plug/receptacle.
Anything else is overkill, dreamed up by paranoid inventors overly concerned with their products.
It would depend if you running the input socket US 120VAC or US 220VA, the dual input fuses would make plenty of sense if you had whatever electronic device wired for 220VAC input since both legs are then hot.
Also it seems like the Schurter 4304.6090 IEC Power Entry Module was meant for international use so its usage will very.
Also it seems like the Schurter 4304.6090 IEC Power Entry Module was meant for international use so its usage will very.