Hi,
A few links for you to check out:
http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/My_Music_Room.htm
http://www.audioalloy.com/
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=19
Staggered studs, with 2 layers of drywall with a layer of 'green glue' is the norm in many proffesionally done home theaters(at least that's that case with many of the installers on AVS) I've done that in my theater and it works amazingly well, the only hitch is that there can't be a 'weak link' anywhere in the room. For instance if you go through all that trouble on all your walls minus one then it's not going to be nearly as effective....and let's face it drywalling is a major pain😡. But if you are willing to do most of/all of that yourself then it's not really that expensive, just time consuming. Sift through some of the dedicated theater construction threads and you'll get a good idea of what people are doing and how beneficial it all is. Like I said before it works great for me, If I have it cranked with both of my 15" subs going I can't hear a thing from outside.
the only other thing I can think of is that with a theater you want a little more absorbtion than would be ideal for just a straight ahead 2 channel setup so be aware of that, you'll see alot of people doing the fiberglass/cotton batting covered by GOM fabric over all their walls, which is a bit much IMHO.
Good luck,
Tristan
A few links for you to check out:
http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/My_Music_Room.htm
http://www.audioalloy.com/
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=19
Staggered studs, with 2 layers of drywall with a layer of 'green glue' is the norm in many proffesionally done home theaters(at least that's that case with many of the installers on AVS) I've done that in my theater and it works amazingly well, the only hitch is that there can't be a 'weak link' anywhere in the room. For instance if you go through all that trouble on all your walls minus one then it's not going to be nearly as effective....and let's face it drywalling is a major pain😡. But if you are willing to do most of/all of that yourself then it's not really that expensive, just time consuming. Sift through some of the dedicated theater construction threads and you'll get a good idea of what people are doing and how beneficial it all is. Like I said before it works great for me, If I have it cranked with both of my 15" subs going I can't hear a thing from outside.
the only other thing I can think of is that with a theater you want a little more absorbtion than would be ideal for just a straight ahead 2 channel setup so be aware of that, you'll see alot of people doing the fiberglass/cotton batting covered by GOM fabric over all their walls, which is a bit much IMHO.
Good luck,
Tristan
Great ideas if you live in a house/condo or somthing that you Own.
But for those of us in an apartment?
Best ive done so far is to put feet on my sub and then to turn it off when the regulation "quiet time" comes around. My mains still sit directly on the floor (11" x 17" footprint)
But then there is the other problem of noisy neighbors. They obviously arent going to do any of the above, but i often wonder what I can do when somebody with more money than brains cranks up their 1kw sub on a saturday afternoon.
But for those of us in an apartment?
Best ive done so far is to put feet on my sub and then to turn it off when the regulation "quiet time" comes around. My mains still sit directly on the floor (11" x 17" footprint)
But then there is the other problem of noisy neighbors. They obviously arent going to do any of the above, but i often wonder what I can do when somebody with more money than brains cranks up their 1kw sub on a saturday afternoon.
The free-standing wall with double drywall or gypsum works well from low-mid and upwards... bass however, is mostly structure born.... the only construction effective in bass region, is concrete / bricks, I'm afraid. Also- the design used on "your" side of the walls mostly affects your own room reflections/ decay time.
You'll have to describe the construction of your flat/condo, walls, roof and floor construction, particularly bordering towards your neighbours... one storey only, or neighbours above/below..??
Those looking for elastic suspension for 80++ kg ??
Rubber "springs" for boat mooring easily carries this load, so does also climbers ropes, designed to strech in a fall..
I think the mooring stuff is the best choice....
You'll have to describe the construction of your flat/condo, walls, roof and floor construction, particularly bordering towards your neighbours... one storey only, or neighbours above/below..??
Those looking for elastic suspension for 80++ kg ??
Rubber "springs" for boat mooring easily carries this load, so does also climbers ropes, designed to strech in a fall..
I think the mooring stuff is the best choice....
I still think most speakers can be isolated with simple rubber feet in the corners to isolate panel vibrations, the only systems that would warrant more elaborate suspension systems would be down firing subwoofers which may actually have significant vertical vibration energy.
Me thinks that the professionals with acoustic wall treatment suggestions would get you more mileage.
Me thinks that the professionals with acoustic wall treatment suggestions would get you more mileage.
Hey guys, I was kidding about suspending my 80Kg subs.
Climbing rope does stretch - I've felt that far too many times
but it would take an awful long length to get a significant stretch. Hadn't thought of boat snubbers, though. good idea if I try something like that later.
Climbing rope does stretch - I've felt that far too many times
but it would take an awful long length to get a significant stretch. Hadn't thought of boat snubbers, though. good idea if I try something like that later.BobEllis said:
We weren't kidding! I'll be over in an hour with the cordless drill and the spade bits, you get the climbing rope and the eye bolts. 😀
peace,
sam
I guess your right about the climbing rope.....should be somewhat elastic though....even for a meter or two...
The boat snubbers arer useful for a lot of other things, when you need HD elastics. There are steel springs, rubber rods etc.... and they come in lots of different sizes/loads...
The boat snubbers arer useful for a lot of other things, when you need HD elastics. There are steel springs, rubber rods etc.... and they come in lots of different sizes/loads...
Normal climbing rope is slightly elastic, to help prevent injury in a fall. I used to use static, or abseiling line, that has no stretch at all otherwise you end up bouncing around in a free descent.
pinkmouse said:
Yes, it is, but it's not like rubber. It's designed to strech, to ease the yank, if you fall. The strech used to be slightly permanent, - I don't know about the later designs though....
Hey guys, those are good ideas but I live in an apartment so it's not like I can suspend my entire house on staggered studs. I did however put it on elastic foam which helped the bass a bit, but the main problem disturbing the neighbors are the high SPL's. Since I live in an apartment, what would you guys suggest I do? As long as I get the idea, I can probably built it or do it somehow.
cotdt said:
You can still do sound proofing, you don't have to tear your walls down to sound proof your room. Check out this website, http://www.ehow.com/how_15992_soundproof-room.html.
"5. As another alternative, hang manufactured soundproofing wall coverings - such as Pyrotek or Super Soundproofing products - which are sold as rigid panels or in rolls. You can purchase these at home improvement centers, lumberyards, insulation contractors or drywall supply houses. Hang the covering according to the manufacturer's directions, then hang the drywall as usual."
Here's a place where you can get the soundproofing materials. http://www.soundprooffoam.com/
I can tell from your posts that you are a real 'gotta have it all' kind of guy...
If high SPLs are the problem, turn down the music. Easy as that!
If you can't change the walls, or the doors, or the windows, what sort of thing would you expect to help? Bass specific problems can be helped with some damping, like you've done, but conservation of energy means that acoustic energy has to go somewhere, it can't just disappear.
And be careful, I wasn't kidding when I said that the only warrant I've ever had out for my arrest was due to a noise violation!
peace,
sam
If high SPLs are the problem, turn down the music. Easy as that!
If you can't change the walls, or the doors, or the windows, what sort of thing would you expect to help? Bass specific problems can be helped with some damping, like you've done, but conservation of energy means that acoustic energy has to go somewhere, it can't just disappear.
And be careful, I wasn't kidding when I said that the only warrant I've ever had out for my arrest was due to a noise violation!
peace,
sam
Why not build the Orions or similar dipole setup ? This will emit the least energy outside the your room.
Perhaps a decent set of Headphones.
Tennants in apartments who persist in annoying the Neighbours Have to compromise or Move directly to the Trailer Park 🙂
Tennants in apartments who persist in annoying the Neighbours Have to compromise or Move directly to the Trailer Park 🙂
Sounds like tough luck to me....
My neighbors tell me thier windows vibrate when I play infrasonic frequencys15-20hz with the closest one being 250' from the sound room. I dont they mind much though...
My neighbors tell me thier windows vibrate when I play infrasonic frequencys15-20hz with the closest one being 250' from the sound room. I dont they mind much though...
Hi, my neighbor called the police on me 60 times in one year,most of the time my music could barely be heard in the next room of my house,The 60th time they called the police I went down to the courthouse and filed a small claims case against them and had a freind serve them with the papers the next day.I won the case and they never bothered me again! music lovers have rights too!
A.H.
A.H.
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