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Hi, I'm about to cut into the front baffle but the drawings on the downloadable pdf for the Alpair 10.3 are nearly useless - they are so small and fuzzy I can't read the data from them. Anybody have proper and reliable dimensions for the cut outs needed for this driver (with bezel) into 17.5mm birch plywood ?
As Jeff says, you could just zoom in on the PDF drawing, but short answer is with bezel:
OD = 165mm
ID = 139mm
rebate depth ( Z)= 11.8 ( test to allow for minor compression of molded gasket)
without bezel:
OD = 160mm
ID = 139mm
rebate depth = 10.5mm
If you're planning on CNC routing of the rebates, I'd suggest allowing at least and extra .5mm dia on both through hole and recess for ease of installation / removal of drivers - if they're too tight and you need to force them to fit, you're asking for trouble - and of course if you ever need to remove the driver
OD = 165mm
ID = 139mm
rebate depth ( Z)= 11.8 ( test to allow for minor compression of molded gasket)
without bezel:
OD = 160mm
ID = 139mm
rebate depth = 10.5mm
If you're planning on CNC routing of the rebates, I'd suggest allowing at least and extra .5mm dia on both through hole and recess for ease of installation / removal of drivers - if they're too tight and you need to force them to fit, you're asking for trouble - and of course if you ever need to remove the driver
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The original drawing(s) imbedded ino the MA pdfs are here. Except for the addition of the optional bezel cover & super gaske with the A10.2 baskets are the same across all 10s
Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio
dave
Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio
dave
I've just finished milling the panels for the A12.2P Pencil from 3/4" Baltic Birch ply and am backing the inside of the front baffle with a square of 1/2" ply so that the screws can bite into approx 3/4 inches after rebate....
don't forget to chamfer the rear side before assembly!
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I had a bash at some routing. It's been a year since I built the Big'un speaker and as a result it took hours to locate the relevant tools
Still, I managed to find it all. First image you see the set-up, with a drill bit sticking out as the centre-pin which pokes through a strategically placed hole in the scrap wood screwed to the base of my router to ensure the right diameter circle. I erred on the generous size for the outer circle to get a diameter of order 168mm and a rebate depth of a hair over 12mm. The inner circle, the cut-out, is something of worry because if you make this generous there's a risk of not leaving enough land for the mounting screws. The Alpair drivers have very little tolerance in this regard. I opted to under-size slightly at around 134mm diameter. I'll then manually enlarge the cut-out to suit the plastic frame supports. My router doesn't go through the total baffle thickness so I had to turn the pieces over and route from the back to complete the cut-out. To get the front and back cut-outs to line up you need to drill a perpendicular hole in the centre for the centre-pin. I managed to do a good job of this on one baffle, but the other was out (I really do need a drill press).
And the chamfers at the backside are done too.
Still, I managed to find it all. First image you see the set-up, with a drill bit sticking out as the centre-pin which pokes through a strategically placed hole in the scrap wood screwed to the base of my router to ensure the right diameter circle. I erred on the generous size for the outer circle to get a diameter of order 168mm and a rebate depth of a hair over 12mm. The inner circle, the cut-out, is something of worry because if you make this generous there's a risk of not leaving enough land for the mounting screws. The Alpair drivers have very little tolerance in this regard. I opted to under-size slightly at around 134mm diameter. I'll then manually enlarge the cut-out to suit the plastic frame supports. My router doesn't go through the total baffle thickness so I had to turn the pieces over and route from the back to complete the cut-out. To get the front and back cut-outs to line up you need to drill a perpendicular hole in the centre for the centre-pin. I managed to do a good job of this on one baffle, but the other was out (I really do need a drill press).
And the chamfers at the backside are done too.
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Has anybody figured out how to do the scallops without setting fire to the baffle?
It's a sign of serious DIY
I do like the two-stage chamfer. I might try that.
It wasn't the intent when I started
CNC router and very careful alignment ?Has anybody figured out how to do the scallops without setting fire to the baffle?
when I care enough about it, I'll just tidy up with some 80G PSA sandpaper wrapped on a scrap of 1 1/4" closet rod
I think that was accidental?I do like the two-stage chamfer. I might try that.
Bob
Frankly i prefer a gouge, rasp and a few linesHas anybody figured out how to do the scallops without setting fire to the baffle?
I do like the two-stage chamfer. I might try that.
Bob
Frankly i prefer a gouge, rasp and a few lines
Do you do a few lines before or after you work on your speakers?
Bob
Do you do a few lines before or after you work on your speakers?
Bob
Sorry i ment to say a gouge,rasp then a few line
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Some progress has been made on the porta-bench in my driveway
A couple of holey braces were positioned starting just below the driver cut-out where I want to stiffen things the most. Both braces are vertical, one front-to-back and the other side-to-side.
I then installed a number of other criss-cross braces from left over 2" wide 'sticks'. In particular I wanted to brace the port opening against the back of the box since the open edge is not supported otherwise.
I installed some thick felt lining around the inside of the top part of the box to tame high frequency reflections.
The driver has been dry-fitted to test the opening dimensions.
I'm probably about half way through the work effort now. It needs A LOT of tidying up before it looks presentable.
A couple of holey braces were positioned starting just below the driver cut-out where I want to stiffen things the most. Both braces are vertical, one front-to-back and the other side-to-side.
I then installed a number of other criss-cross braces from left over 2" wide 'sticks'. In particular I wanted to brace the port opening against the back of the box since the open edge is not supported otherwise.
I installed some thick felt lining around the inside of the top part of the box to tame high frequency reflections.
The driver has been dry-fitted to test the opening dimensions.
I'm probably about half way through the work effort now. It needs A LOT of tidying up before it looks presentable.
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- need quick help with A10.3 info !