How is the build coming along? I've simulated a few xo's and will listen to a few tweaks and measure for confirmation. If something seems good, I'll post it over the weekend.
I recieved the new replacements. I am looking at puting port in but want to make sure the placment is good. Also I have cut little triangles of wood to be able to screw front baffle on.
You will want some thin gasket between the baffle and the box. If you look closely at the pic in post #40 I have a 1/16" deep by 1/4" wide rabbet. I didn't want there to be a visible gap...You don't have to do THAT, but you will want to do SOMETHING to keep it air tight.
I bought a bunch of sound deadner for my truck, working on doing my sound sytem in there also. I was going to use some sound deadner around the basket opening to make air tight.
I'm talking about the removeable front baffle. If you just screw the front baffle on tight to your triangles of wood, there will be enough of a gap, even if it looks tight, to be a significant leakage of air.
Yes. Jeff Bagby determined they were drop in replacements after using the FE83 in his Quarks and the FE83s running out of stock and being replaced by FE85.
Do you have any suggestion on the port placement ? Also I am a noob and tried 6 the measurements in rew but they wont open?
Should I try Vurtix Cad ?
Should I try Vurtix Cad ?
For the port you aren't going to have many options. You can't have it behind the tweeter or woofer magnet because it won't fit. If you have the removable baffle, you can basically place the port where it doesn't overlap either of the driver holes at all. Then figure out where the port hole needs to go on the back. You want it pretty close to the holes though, because you don't want the port opening up right by a wall.
REW is the measurement program. You need this and your USB mic to measure each of the drivers. Then you export the SPL curves and use them in VituixCAD to design a crossover. You also need the impedance files, but if you don't have DATS or a jig then just use the files I uploaded.
I may have a crossover to share by the end of this weekend.
REW is the measurement program. You need this and your USB mic to measure each of the drivers. Then you export the SPL curves and use them in VituixCAD to design a crossover. You also need the impedance files, but if you don't have DATS or a jig then just use the files I uploaded.
I may have a crossover to share by the end of this weekend.
I was thinking of taking a 1/2 " plywood and making a ring to glue on before the fron baffle. The ring would also have the corner pieces cut into it think? 4 small corner pieces just glued in. I also was thinking of adding just a piece of 1/2" plywood to the beck glued so there is a double wall l. That way when I do the port I would have created 1 " more clearence. While only adding a small amount of space.
What do you think? How will this affect the speaker? I am looking to be able to get the port in while minmising the chance a messing up the port by choking it. I know we talked about this a pastbport but now that I am here I am looking at best options.
What do you think? How will this affect the speaker? I am looking to be able to get the port in while minmising the chance a messing up the port by choking it. I know we talked about this a pastbport but now that I am here I am looking at best options.
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I think what you describe above is fine.
It might be easier to just cut out two 2" diameter discs per cabinet (4 total) out of 1/2" plywood. Glue two together so that you have a 2" disc by 1" deep for each speaker. Glue this to the back where the port is going to go and just drill your port hold through the 1" deep disc and the back cabinet that it is glued to. You have added the extra 1" and not had to do anything to the front of the speaker.
It might be easier to just cut out two 2" diameter discs per cabinet (4 total) out of 1/2" plywood. Glue two together so that you have a 2" disc by 1" deep for each speaker. Glue this to the back where the port is going to go and just drill your port hold through the 1" deep disc and the back cabinet that it is glued to. You have added the extra 1" and not had to do anything to the front of the speaker.
I have a 4 component crossover that may work. I'll listen to it some more and post later in the week.
Progress is slow, sorry I have not responded for some reson the notifications did not tell me a message was sent. I usually chack my email then open the app with the link to a new message. I have decided to do additional back piece were it will be a double wall and add 1/2" then adding a square ring to the front glued on so i have an area to screw the front baffle on and also it will add another 1/2". This will give a clear 1/2" just behind the tweeter do you think that is enough space? Also I ordered the binding post for speaker connection silver to go with the color of the woofer.
I would think that will be okay. It would be 'nice' to have 1" but I don't think this is going to matter much. In fact, having a port open up near a wall sometimes acts to lengthen the effective port. In this case, that would tune it a little lower, which isn't necessarily a bad thing.