Hi Everyone, I am working on a speaker project with a friend and we have a Full
range Audio nirvana 6.5" paired with a HIVI RT1C-A ribbon tweeter to be used in a 1.5 way configuration in a double mouth bass reflex slotted port loudspeaker with approx. 18 liters volume chamber with two ports that are 6.25" x 1" x 3" (2) one on top one on bottom of compression chamber with double expanding waveguide mouths one on top one on bottom. We also have A Beston round ribbon tweeter rear firing and can be turned on and off when desired. it will be bi-wireable/ampable, but when first finished, it will be used with only a single pair of speaker wires with the jumper bars in place. I want the full range to run on it's own circuit and no crossover on it. All the drivers are T/S 94 SPL..The tweeters in another circuit with a 3-way switch. the drivers are AN=7.2 ohms HIVI = 5 ohms Beston = 6 ohms. how would you avoid comb filtering with the AN and the HIVI ? They are going to be mounted on front baffle. the Beston is rear firing and used for depth and ambiance sound field similar to genesis, snell, vanderstein's how would you hook this up in 1st order crossover? consider the minimum tweeter freq. cutoff is 4500khz. would I have to use a second order Linkwitz-riley or bessel, butterworth? how would you do this? any recommendations fully descriptive would be appreciated! bless all of you! Lydia
p.s. this will be wired to a Scott 200B Integrated tube amplifier vintage 1963!
range Audio nirvana 6.5" paired with a HIVI RT1C-A ribbon tweeter to be used in a 1.5 way configuration in a double mouth bass reflex slotted port loudspeaker with approx. 18 liters volume chamber with two ports that are 6.25" x 1" x 3" (2) one on top one on bottom of compression chamber with double expanding waveguide mouths one on top one on bottom. We also have A Beston round ribbon tweeter rear firing and can be turned on and off when desired. it will be bi-wireable/ampable, but when first finished, it will be used with only a single pair of speaker wires with the jumper bars in place. I want the full range to run on it's own circuit and no crossover on it. All the drivers are T/S 94 SPL..The tweeters in another circuit with a 3-way switch. the drivers are AN=7.2 ohms HIVI = 5 ohms Beston = 6 ohms. how would you avoid comb filtering with the AN and the HIVI ? They are going to be mounted on front baffle. the Beston is rear firing and used for depth and ambiance sound field similar to genesis, snell, vanderstein's how would you hook this up in 1st order crossover? consider the minimum tweeter freq. cutoff is 4500khz. would I have to use a second order Linkwitz-riley or bessel, butterworth? how would you do this? any recommendations fully descriptive would be appreciated! bless all of you! Lydia
p.s. this will be wired to a Scott 200B Integrated tube amplifier vintage 1963!
re:"how would you avoid comb filtering with the AN and the HIVI ?" - put a 2nd order (L/R) crossover on both.
re:"how would you do this?" - as a first approximation, run impedance plots of all drivers and calculate the component values based on the actual impedance at the chosen crossover frequency
re:"how would you do this?" - as a first approximation, run impedance plots of all drivers and calculate the component values based on the actual impedance at the chosen crossover frequency
What about bi-amping
Hi Pete,
you are absolutly right on this one! I did some research today and looked at some graphs and after gathering all impedence curves and spl/frequency response graphs and cross over calculators your right on! That AN has a nasty peak at 4k-6k and nothing can change the raw driver makeup. what about using my scott tube amplifier just to run the full range and using another amp for the HIVI, would comb filtering still be a problem? would if I just use a second order L/R only with the tweeters in a bi amp setup I probably would still need an active crossover with that and that's expensive!!!
so Just looking at options.... anymore thoughts to consider? appreciate what you already gave me thanks and bless you Pete! Lydia
Hi Pete,
you are absolutly right on this one! I did some research today and looked at some graphs and after gathering all impedence curves and spl/frequency response graphs and cross over calculators your right on! That AN has a nasty peak at 4k-6k and nothing can change the raw driver makeup. what about using my scott tube amplifier just to run the full range and using another amp for the HIVI, would comb filtering still be a problem? would if I just use a second order L/R only with the tweeters in a bi amp setup I probably would still need an active crossover with that and that's expensive!!!
so Just looking at options.... anymore thoughts to consider? appreciate what you already gave me thanks and bless you Pete! Lydia
Oh well, that 'nasty peak' can be converted to 'gently descending' response
with an inductance . I guess 😱😎
But I guess also that if the AN driver is claimed to be full range , the usual trick
to make the crossover for bass a 1st order and the highpass 2nd order
won't work much . Surely , for the rear tweeter a 1st order with a 'knee' placed very high ...well ,maybe at the very right,looking at the dB/Hz graph 😛
would work, with some resistance to pad down .
For the power delivered to each component, I wouldn't mind messing with active; that would be useful for crossing from the woofer to a subwoofer ,where
power-transfer and efficiency/price ( crossing that low means large inductors &
caps) matters . But a 10-20 W component doesn't deserve such attention .
with an inductance . I guess 😱😎
But I guess also that if the AN driver is claimed to be full range , the usual trick
to make the crossover for bass a 1st order and the highpass 2nd order
won't work much . Surely , for the rear tweeter a 1st order with a 'knee' placed very high ...well ,maybe at the very right,looking at the dB/Hz graph 😛
would work, with some resistance to pad down .
For the power delivered to each component, I wouldn't mind messing with active; that would be useful for crossing from the woofer to a subwoofer ,where
power-transfer and efficiency/price ( crossing that low means large inductors &
caps) matters . But a 10-20 W component doesn't deserve such attention .
yes, some inductance may tame it (and probably give a more balanced sound by adding some BSC), but because the xover freq is so high, it'll be a bit of a juggling act... you don't want to leave a big hole between the 'full ranger' and the tweeter - you'll need to pad down the tweeter a bit to match.
Ribbon tweeters are fairly fragile, so a minimum of 2nd order is needed
Ribbon tweeters are fairly fragile, so a minimum of 2nd order is needed
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what about using two woofers with high spl low ecursion
Here is a thought, I can mitigate a change and go WTW or MTM with that setup
I would still need to have equal to 94 spl some thought! Get the full range out of there and go with a woofer with high spl such as a 5-1/4" x (2) with the HIVI what would happen? would two woofers sound less distortion than one driver? what crossover would be desired then? comb filtering concerns? don't know. what would benefit from this configuration? Lydia
Here is a thought, I can mitigate a change and go WTW or MTM with that setup
I would still need to have equal to 94 spl some thought! Get the full range out of there and go with a woofer with high spl such as a 5-1/4" x (2) with the HIVI what would happen? would two woofers sound less distortion than one driver? what crossover would be desired then? comb filtering concerns? don't know. what would benefit from this configuration? Lydia
re:"I would still need to have equal to 94 spl' - why? just put an L pad on the tweeter if matching it is your concern.
My preference is for WWT, you can make this a 2.5 way and get full BSC with the second woofer. But to keep it simple, you're probably best to go with a single high quality woofer, such as the SEAS CA18RLY, which should match well with your HiVi tweeter & is easy to cross over
My preference is for WWT, you can make this a 2.5 way and get full BSC with the second woofer. But to keep it simple, you're probably best to go with a single high quality woofer, such as the SEAS CA18RLY, which should match well with your HiVi tweeter & is easy to cross over
re:'Maybe an RLC series notch' - that would work, but I suspect the OP was hoping for a simple crossover 😀...
Let's keep it simple
Now, The speaker baffle is only 6.25" wide so I don't think baffle step correction is needed unless you intend to place it up against a wall? I want to keep this as simple
as possible to get best sound and yes I do want the rear firing tweeter and I can Xvr'
that on it's own 1st order at 6k I think would be good! again a switch to turn on or off when disired. If I need to go higher in crossover on rear tweeter so be it It could be used as a rear supertweeter with only added ambience at very high frequency's solved!
AS far as the most critical One woofer, tweeter or two woofer and tweeter in a 2.5 way would be good and 2nd order linkwitz/riley should take care of that! sound from my enclosure will be split by a triangle piece in the center of the chamber to deflect the sound out the top slot and the bottom slot out the waveguides! so Is there still going to be a juggling act? Lydia
Now, The speaker baffle is only 6.25" wide so I don't think baffle step correction is needed unless you intend to place it up against a wall? I want to keep this as simple
as possible to get best sound and yes I do want the rear firing tweeter and I can Xvr'
that on it's own 1st order at 6k I think would be good! again a switch to turn on or off when disired. If I need to go higher in crossover on rear tweeter so be it It could be used as a rear supertweeter with only added ambience at very high frequency's solved!
AS far as the most critical One woofer, tweeter or two woofer and tweeter in a 2.5 way would be good and 2nd order linkwitz/riley should take care of that! sound from my enclosure will be split by a triangle piece in the center of the chamber to deflect the sound out the top slot and the bottom slot out the waveguides! so Is there still going to be a juggling act? Lydia
you may find this thread interesting:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/67921-fostex-168esigma-vs-audio-nirvana-6-5-a.html
re:"I don't think baffle step correction is needed unless you intend to place it up against a wall' - precisely the opposite
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/67921-fostex-168esigma-vs-audio-nirvana-6-5-a.html
re:"I don't think baffle step correction is needed unless you intend to place it up against a wall' - precisely the opposite
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