Need help - heatsink on S/500 damaged

[SL10User]

Hi everybody,

today I damaged one of the heatsinks. Had an accident on the stairs and one heatsink fin is heavily bent (besides a damaged stair...).

🙁

Tried to correct it by means of a huge pliers.
- No Chance, I suppose the metal will break if I use greater force.

Any ideas where I can get a new heatsink, or maybe somebody has a spare for me?

🙂

Cheers,
Gerhard

 

[Eric]

I am not familiar with the S/500 configuration. Does one fin make that much difference? Is the bent fin just an aesthetic issue, or does it kill the cooling capacity of the sink because of blocked air flow? I'm inclined to say leave it alone. Otherwise, unbend it and it if breaks, file the edge so its not sharp and color it with a Sharpie.

 

[Andersonix]

You take a chance by trying to bend it back again, as it may break off. Pics?

Did you check inside for damage or shifting of transformer mounts?

 

[KatieandDad]

Its unlikely to break if you just bend it back.

Unless it is made of really crap ally. If it bent one way once it should be OK to bend it back. Keep on doing the bending and of course it will break.

You could always warm it up before tring to bend it back. I'm not talking about welding torch heat but just a hot air gun.

 

[SL10User]

Thanks for the replies.

Of course it's only an aestethic issue, but it hurts my heart. So it's a health-issue, too.

🙂

I'll try to warm it up and bend again.

No one out there with a spare?

 

[Gyuri]

Not a terrible disaster.
If we disregard the damage was on your soul.🙂
In my opinion, you can straighten it without breaking it.

 

[Eric]

That doesn't look at as bad as I was thinking. A little heat (heat gun, hair dryer, etc) and some gentle use of plies and cloth should be able to fix that without scratching it.

 

[CanAm Man]

THe heatsink was made from an extrusion aluminum alloy. That means it was shaped using heat and pressure. As such, heat and pressure also can be used to reform it.

If it's easy to remove the heatsink, I'd do it. (Even if it's not easy, I'd do it anyway.) You can then preheat the sink with a gas torch (propane would work). You don't want to get it hot enough to ablate the finish (anodize). Then, with a pair of vice grips (or an adjustable wrench fitting the thickness of the fin, carefully bend the fin back into shape. If you get the temp correct, it should not require much muscle-power to reform it. You may not get it perfect, but hey........

Trust me. It can be done. I've done it several times. Just be careful, and work slowly.

I would not try this, if you cannot remove the heatsink from the electronics....!!!

 

[CanAm Man]

(I just read Eric's post, directly above mine..... You might want to try a professional-grade heat gun as your first try. Using a propane torch requires some finesse in using it--so I'd only try a torch if the heat gun doesn't do it)

 

[coolnose]

bending back and turnign upside/down

Hi,

good tips on bending it back already..

I am not familiar with the 500 construction, but I suppose you could undo the electronics on the heatsink, try to bend it back, and turn the heatsink upside /down to "hide" the corrected fin.

Cheers,

Max

 

[SL10User]

Thanks for the recommendations!

The heatsink is very easy to remove.
I'll try my very best....

😱

Keep you informed.

 

[SL10User]

Almost like new!

🙂

Removed the heatsink from the amp, heated the bended part up with a 2 kW heat gun. Then it was easy to bend it back. Mounted the heatsink upside down back to the amp. It's almost invisible.

Thanks for the heat gun advice!

And thanks to Nelson for the symmetrical design...

😀

 

[Eric]

Excellent work! Don't you just love a happy ending?!?