Hi, this is going to be an extreme noob question. I purchased a pair of used/pre built speakers (Jeff Bagby's Solstice, Parts Express) from a person who shipped them to me a few months ago. Unfortunately they seemed to have suffered some damages on the way here, and I'm trying to fix the issues. I'm new to this, and only built one pair before myself that turned out without issues so I'm very lost trying to find the root of the issues.
The tweeter of one isn't playing, and the mid/bass pair of the other isn't playing. The crossover is built on a PCB, and the wires going from input - crossover board - drivers seems ok, I reattached them. There's still no sound from the tweeter, and woofers on the other.
I just bought a multimeter, and I would love to learn how to find the issues. Is it the PCB? Are the drivers damaged? Is there a weak connection somewhere?
How do I begin?
Really appreciate any help here, thanks!
The tweeter of one isn't playing, and the mid/bass pair of the other isn't playing. The crossover is built on a PCB, and the wires going from input - crossover board - drivers seems ok, I reattached them. There's still no sound from the tweeter, and woofers on the other.
I just bought a multimeter, and I would love to learn how to find the issues. Is it the PCB? Are the drivers damaged? Is there a weak connection somewhere?
How do I begin?
Really appreciate any help here, thanks!
Thanks! I opened one with the non-working tweeter. The tweeter measures all right at 6ohm, no issues. What can I check next?
Then the tweeter may be good. You could swap it with the other one to verify.
Do the same for the woofer.
Also we need the crossover schematic. There are 2 power resistors, 2 film capacitors, and 3 inductors.
You could check the resistors for value. The caps and coils should be ok. Check connectors too.
Why not sketch out the crossover while the cabinets are open? It's easy.
Do the same for the woofer.
Also we need the crossover schematic. There are 2 power resistors, 2 film capacitors, and 3 inductors.
You could check the resistors for value. The caps and coils should be ok. Check connectors too.
Why not sketch out the crossover while the cabinets are open? It's easy.
if that tweeter doesn't work
i would check the crossover visually.
idk if this will work but put a multimeter on continuity mode and put the one lead on the positive on the in side and the other lead on the positive wire that ends up to the tweeter and do the same with the negative. (do with the tweeter disconnected if it is not a bi-wire crossover also disconnect the woofer for the test) (it also depends on how the crossover was designed)
I'm terrible at explaining stuff so i hope you got were i was going, also a image of the crossover here would help.
I'll try swapping the tweeters next, looks pretty new though. Feels like something's in the crossover/PCB. Here is the schematic
I'll check continuity till the terminals...
I'll check continuity till the terminals...
i would check the inductors make sure both leads of each are attached so there should be 3 of them
have you got a real image of it u can show us
have you got a real image of it u can show us
I found something very weird.
In checking continuity on the multimeter, there is a weird gap.
On Points 2,3,4 on this photo...(basically l2, l3, c2 on the diagram). There is continuity between 2 and 3, 3 and 4, 2 and 4. There is continuity across the inductor (1 and 2). However on one speaker, there is no continuity between 1 and 3 and 1 and 4???
It's showing fine on the other side. Seems to be why there's no continuity between the amp input + and woofer output +...
In checking continuity on the multimeter, there is a weird gap.
On Points 2,3,4 on this photo...(basically l2, l3, c2 on the diagram). There is continuity between 2 and 3, 3 and 4, 2 and 4. There is continuity across the inductor (1 and 2). However on one speaker, there is no continuity between 1 and 3 and 1 and 4???
It's showing fine on the other side. Seems to be why there's no continuity between the amp input + and woofer output +...
Most look like cold joints on that PCB.
I'm exaggerating, but one or two look like.
Then the enamel on the copper is another unknown, as well as the PCB itself. I always advise to put the crossover out of the box...
I'm exaggerating, but one or two look like.
Then the enamel on the copper is another unknown, as well as the PCB itself. I always advise to put the crossover out of the box...
A lot of those solder joints on the PCB look kind of wonky...you should check them carefully, maybe even reheat with a little bit of solder flux just to be sure.
Mike
Mike
i made this image for me.
so if that cap is broken i don't think it would do anything as its not to the woofers it goes to ground.
what pcb is this the broken woofer or tweeter one
This is the broken woofer one. Would it help if I just resoldered all these points then? Shaking the speaker seems to have fixed the other one 🤯
i don't think the 25ohm resister is wired right.
i don't think it goes anywere
it should go to negative
ya ik this wont stop the tweeter working but this does effect the crossover
i think this is how its ment to be i looked for images and a few other xcovers using this board use 2 12.5 ohm resisters
like this
or I'm just an idiot
im sure this isnt a 2 layer board
put a your multimeter probe here and one on the negative
ya im like 110% the tweeter part is wrong
this is the same parts just using 2 12.5ohm resistors to make 25ohm you will need to alter the board
u might need some thin wire as i don't think there enough on the part to make it across
so this is what you need to do after you have fixed the woofer problems
that should fix the crossover point
i know i posting a lot
for the woofer not working i think its just solder joints
this is the same parts just using 2 12.5ohm resistors to make 25ohm you will need to alter the board
u might need some thin wire as i don't think there enough on the part to make it across
so this is what you need to do after you have fixed the woofer problems
that should fix the crossover point
i know i posting a lot
for the woofer not working i think its just solder joints
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Hmmm the parts you suggested are"continuous".
Also it's exactly the same on the other speaker crossover, and thats working perfectly.
And as I'm working on this, even the tweeter on this side stopped working lol. Looks like it's just extremely flimsy...
Also it's exactly the same on the other speaker crossover, and thats working perfectly.
And as I'm working on this, even the tweeter on this side stopped working lol. Looks like it's just extremely flimsy...
just brige the two on the back
as currently you can take the resistor out and it wont matter its not connected anyway
its also nearly 7 in the morning and i haven't slept so if I'm missing something its cos of this
much simpler
yes it will still work as that resistor goes to ground not the tweeter it effects the slope of the crossover so currently its not right and will sound odd once its fixed it will match the schematics
as currently you can take the resistor out and it wont matter its not connected anyway
its also nearly 7 in the morning and i haven't slept so if I'm missing something its cos of this