Need Help Assemblying ElectroVoice T-35 Compression Driver

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I want to thank anyone who takes the time to help me with repairing my T-35 horns. I recently purchased a pair of vintage EV Regency speakers. The speakers have some issues that I am trying to take care of. One problem is that a diaphragm on one T-35 was bad. I purchased a replacement diaphragm and watched the videos on youtube showing how to assemble them. The videos show the following process a) glue one gasket on the face having the magnet; b) glue and center diaphragm in gap; c) thread diaphragm leads through eyelets and solder leads to corresponding terminals.

I am sure there is a simple way to solder the terminals to my version of the T-35 but I don't see it. Any help would be appreciated. See the attached pictures. If I attach (e.g. glue) the diaphragm to the magnet side of the casing I would then have to solder the wire to the leads on the other casing. If you look you will see that there are terminals on the inside of the other casing (where the sound exits to the horn). In fact, disassembling the halves was a destructive process (which I was unaware of) where I ripped the leads separating the halves.

I guess I am asking what technique you used to successfully assemble this version of the T-35. How do you hold the halves in position where you can solder them together? Do you fold or bend the leads back upon itself to line up with the terminals? If I separate the halves and use enough lead to solder to the terminals they could end up touching the diaphragm or metal inside the case. Also, let me know if there is someone you know who could replace the diaphragm if I am not up for the task.

Once again. Thanks for any help you may give.
Regards,
gwho
 

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Thanks for the help but I saw the videos on youtube and they do not help. That is why I inquired here to see if anyone could help. I was able to install the diaphragm by holding the cases close to each other having the smallest gap possible that allows me to reach a soldering iron in the case to solder the wire to the bump. There is slack on the wire that gets folded into the case.

gwho
 
could be you missed the part where the "bump" that is solder covering the hole that the lead goes through is cleaned away so that all the slack is fed outside the casing assembly(no need to fold excess lead into the case) the enamel coating on the leads dissolves with the heat in soldering.
to wit the driver is assembled and the screws are installed before you solder.
the video that Atom666 linked to shows this at about to the fifteen minute mark.
 
Thanks for pointing that out but I did see that. The early models have a solid post extending through the interior side of the cover with solder on the end of the solid post. I did try to remove the solder but found the solid post. If you look at the last picture you will see the external cap on the solid post. There is a hole formed on the external part of the post. The cap screws down and clamps onto a wire inserted into the opening in the solid post.

The only thing I found on the procedure was in the Klipsch forum where someone says these early ev t-25's are a pain in the butt to get back together. I can attest to this fact.

Regards,
gwho
 
I apologize, in my reply I meant T35. The speaker terminals on those look similar to the ones on a T35. Do those terminals also have to be soldered from the inside of the case like the T25 or can you thread the lead through the post.

Regards,
Gary
 
The cabinets have the usual scratches and some dents you would expect in 50 year old cabinets. I am not going to do anything now other than get the speakers working. I wonder if you ruin the value by trying to refinish the cabinets.

Gwho
 
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