Anybody use punch sets to letter wooden chassis? Recommend a filler that remains after wiping and dries hard?
A punch on wood?
I've used acrylic paint and wax on plastic and metal projects. Ink is sometimes used, but that's probably too thin for wood. Used an automotive paint touch up pen once (on plastic).
I'd probably go for medium thick acrylic paint. Apply w/ a tooth pick, to fill the letters. Dry. Apply again to be sure it's flush or a bit over filled when dry. Let it dry completely (up to a couple days). Then sand away the excess.
I'd be afraid wax would sink into the grain, and not accept your final finish.
--I did a quick search and acrylic is not compatible w/ an alcohol based top coat, as it may dissolve the acrylic. Anything else (water or oil based) should be fine.
I've used acrylic paint and wax on plastic and metal projects. Ink is sometimes used, but that's probably too thin for wood. Used an automotive paint touch up pen once (on plastic).
I'd probably go for medium thick acrylic paint. Apply w/ a tooth pick, to fill the letters. Dry. Apply again to be sure it's flush or a bit over filled when dry. Let it dry completely (up to a couple days). Then sand away the excess.
I'd be afraid wax would sink into the grain, and not accept your final finish.
--I did a quick search and acrylic is not compatible w/ an alcohol based top coat, as it may dissolve the acrylic. Anything else (water or oil based) should be fine.
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You could use epoxy mixed with wood dust, metal dust, marble dust or something else.
I haven`t tried it with punched letters, but it works fine with carved letters.
Whatever you use for a filler make sure that you seal the wood first.
I haven`t tried it with punched letters, but it works fine with carved letters.
Whatever you use for a filler make sure that you seal the wood first.
you can use wood filler. comes in many colors to match different woods and goes on like putty. once hardened, sand off the excess and you should be left with a nice flat filled letter. post in construction tips and you might get more responses.
I have used a mixture of Tip-Ex correcting fluid with an xylene based conformal coating for vintage Bakelite front panels and it has worked well for me.
The correcting fluid is too powdery on its own and the conformal coating makes it more durable and tames down the brightness of the bright white of the fluid.
I used a tooth pick to apply it as others have done here.
The correcting fluid is too powdery on its own and the conformal coating makes it more durable and tames down the brightness of the bright white of the fluid.
I used a tooth pick to apply it as others have done here.
Attachments
Something else that might be good to try, placing a wet rag over the wood for about a half hour then using a clothes iron through the cloth, expands all sorts of dents and punches in wood, let it dry then sand and fill if needed, it'll make the filling less noticeable even if it won't completely remove the punches in the wood.
I note the question has yet to be asked as to intended finish after the "repair"
If there's any depth to pores of wood grain, it could be very trick to fill just the punched letters, and to get a deadly match on color of fill if attempting to retain close to original finish.
If it's solid wood and thick enough to permit doing so, I'd be inclined to plane / sand down to slightly below the level of impressions (to avoid telegraphing the stress on fibers from the punching) and refinish.
On the other hand, if to be painted over, then any decent resin bondo type product, and a few coats of high solids primer and then your color & top coats, and you'll be good as new.
If there's any depth to pores of wood grain, it could be very trick to fill just the punched letters, and to get a deadly match on color of fill if attempting to retain close to original finish.
If it's solid wood and thick enough to permit doing so, I'd be inclined to plane / sand down to slightly below the level of impressions (to avoid telegraphing the stress on fibers from the punching) and refinish.
On the other hand, if to be painted over, then any decent resin bondo type product, and a few coats of high solids primer and then your color & top coats, and you'll be good as new.
See #7 above - in my opinion the desired final finish( not yet specified?) will dictate the approach & materials used.
Found It
Thanks to those who replied; I didn't want to repair indentations but rather fill them with a colored medium so they could be seen.
The answer is Minwax "Wood Putty" that comes in wood tones and white. "Fills nail holes and other imperfections in stained and finished wood"
The bases aren't quite done but I've tried punching letters in varnished stock then applying this stuff. It stays in the punched depression but wipes off the varnished wood surrounding.
Thanks to those who replied; I didn't want to repair indentations but rather fill them with a colored medium so they could be seen.
The answer is Minwax "Wood Putty" that comes in wood tones and white. "Fills nail holes and other imperfections in stained and finished wood"
The bases aren't quite done but I've tried punching letters in varnished stock then applying this stuff. It stays in the punched depression but wipes off the varnished wood surrounding.
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