M-lytics have been my favoutite ps caps for a long time. In tube PS i have a small preference for the old black Cerafines but can easily live with the M-lytics. In preference to any other electrolytic or film cap.
Are they better than Rifa 169? Difficult question, they are just different. To compare them to any Sprague cap is ridiculous.
As much as i like them, i have to acknowledge others don't always agree. Some find them cold, mechanical and lacking at the reproduction of voices.
Are they better than Rifa 169? Difficult question, they are just different. To compare them to any Sprague cap is ridiculous.
As much as i like them, i have to acknowledge others don't always agree. Some find them cold, mechanical and lacking at the reproduction of voices.
Well, I think you should know that the probably “most expansive” high-end amps from FM Acoustics are using Nichicon VX/VR... Please use “appropriate” capacitor in different parts of the circuit.
Low ESR, high ripple current type caps in power supply, and (as mentioned by other people) make sure that all stages are properly “decoupled” before playing with expansive capacitors. That is, optimize the design before playing with “audiophile” parts.
My two sents...
Low ESR, high ripple current type caps in power supply, and (as mentioned by other people) make sure that all stages are properly “decoupled” before playing with expansive capacitors. That is, optimize the design before playing with “audiophile” parts.
My two sents...
Mlytic HC
going with the HC means the best Cap you can buy atm. I compared so many high end caps. There is nothing like the HC around. Its not bright, its perfect. It will give you a improvement in bass e.g no other cap will do. Thumps up for that masterpiece.
Regards
Sunny
going with the HC means the best Cap you can buy atm. I compared so many high end caps. There is nothing like the HC around. Its not bright, its perfect. It will give you a improvement in bass e.g no other cap will do. Thumps up for that masterpiece.
Regards
Sunny
No-One seems to mention exactly Where/ What purpose of these caps?
Presumably a PS Cap bank?
Good luck with audible differences there. Certainly so when already using Decent quality ones.
Well into Faith based improvements IMO.
Besides IF grasping at straws then a Multiple array of Lower Uf caps is claimed to do better than a single or few larger ones.
Presumably a PS Cap bank?
Good luck with audible differences there. Certainly so when already using Decent quality ones.
Well into Faith based improvements IMO.
Besides IF grasping at straws then a Multiple array of Lower Uf caps is claimed to do better than a single or few larger ones.
I have just recapped my Linn Lk85 with Mundorf AG 10000µf and Nichicon KZ Muse 100µf caps, and it is a quite noticeable improvement. Can't wait how it will sound after burn in.
How many hours is the burn in time normally? (10000 mf 63 Volt Mundorf AG).
In my Copland CSA-14 are 4 pieces of 10000 mg 50 Volt. Would I gain something by installing foru of these discussed Mundorfs instead? Or are there a better alternative?
Kind regards,
Redfox
In my Copland CSA-14 are 4 pieces of 10000 mg 50 Volt. Would I gain something by installing foru of these discussed Mundorfs instead? Or are there a better alternative?
Kind regards,
Redfox
Right, so I ended up buying M-Lytic Mundorfs at 22.000µF, 63Volt. 4 pieced and then rebuilt all of the amp with near all components replaced with new and better. Also designed small pcb's for the resistors in front of the output transistors, which also got replaced with the newest and best available, plus took out the 5 bridges and replaces with state of the art ceramic 1000V ones, and also designed an electronic relay at the output, instead of the old mechanical one. Then decided to get rid of the cables, and the galvanized spades, so solderen in new silver/copper wire directly. Then I chose to double up on the output transistors. Designed mini pcb's with smd resistors instead of the high inductance ones and finished off with installing a softstart to power up slowly and spare the big cans a little. Also installed a set of new quality valves and adjusted the bias. Finally doubled up on the wires to the output, and soldered new copper/silver wires in directly. Finally, decoupled a lot on the underside of the pcb.
Result: AMAZING sound! Sorry, words cannot describe it. It was good already, but this is a completely different league in every single aspect. Simply AMAZING!
Not optimal high mass binding posts, so will do that in the next round, as well as deleting the fuses and all of their galvanized spades. Must go!
Kind regards.
Result: AMAZING sound! Sorry, words cannot describe it. It was good already, but this is a completely different league in every single aspect. Simply AMAZING!
Not optimal high mass binding posts, so will do that in the next round, as well as deleting the fuses and all of their galvanized spades. Must go!
Kind regards.
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