Hi.. I'm in the process of deciding a design to go with for my center channel. Right now the audax is looking pretty good, but I could use some other suggestions for designs that might be a little less costly and not quite as large. I was thinking about using 2 or 3 tang bands together because I heard they are very good full range drivers, but I have no experience in crossover or cabinet design. I was also thinking of making an mtm with a pair of vifa mg series woofers because I like their looks, but I haven't found any designs at all that use these drivers. Can anyone point me to some info on either of those 2 ideas? Thanks for the help.
I'll be using my pair of yamaha ns-a835's for the time being, but plan on building something like the proteus or another 2.5 way design to replace them eventually.
supes said:
You should consider eesigning all 3 across the front at the same time, even if you only start with the centres.
dave
also depends how big a center you can get away with.
ideally the W MT W version is a good mix of vertical dispersion and adequate bass. it means a 3 way but one can get away with using 1st order and Audax or Vifa sheilded drivers. w = 6", M = 3.5-4", T = 1"dome. this means the center would be atleast 8" high.
You can then use a similar drivers (WW MT or W MT W) in a vertical array for left and right.
tangbands with their wide range throw a wide range of interesting options. i got an idea tha uses 20 over 6 channels. someday i will get arround to executing it. if you are interested post so i dont waste bandwidth.
ideally the W MT W version is a good mix of vertical dispersion and adequate bass. it means a 3 way but one can get away with using 1st order and Audax or Vifa sheilded drivers. w = 6", M = 3.5-4", T = 1"dome. this means the center would be atleast 8" high.
You can then use a similar drivers (WW MT or W MT W) in a vertical array for left and right.
tangbands with their wide range throw a wide range of interesting options. i got an idea tha uses 20 over 6 channels. someday i will get arround to executing it. if you are interested post so i dont waste bandwidth.
I would like to hear about your idea for the TB's... since they are full range, this means they won't require a crossover right? So I could just wire up several of them in series and be ok? This would be a much more economical approach, I think.
OTOH, it seems like if I go with the audax center channel then I should also build the audax mains to go with it. i have heard good things about the center, but are there any reviews out there on the mains? obviously they use quality drivers but I was hoping to build something more along the lines of a 2.5 way for the extra bass. thanks for your responses, they're very helpful.
OTOH, it seems like if I go with the audax center channel then I should also build the audax mains to go with it. i have heard good things about the center, but are there any reviews out there on the mains? obviously they use quality drivers but I was hoping to build something more along the lines of a 2.5 way for the extra bass. thanks for your responses, they're very helpful.
actually now that I think about it, I could probably just build the audax kit and then build separate main speakers for listening to music too. There's so many designs I want to build.... I have a feeling the diy bug won't quit after these are done. 😎
hi supes
i've got me a pair of proteus a while ago. it was my first real diy project and took me about 4-5 months to complete. ok, i could only work some weekends time to time, but anyway. i think i've spent 130h in the garage building the speakers.
if you planning to use these proteus for home theatre i really recommend you to build a pair of bass units.
i've got me a pair of proteus a while ago. it was my first real diy project and took me about 4-5 months to complete. ok, i could only work some weekends time to time, but anyway. i think i've spent 130h in the garage building the speakers.
if you planning to use these proteus for home theatre i really recommend you to build a pair of bass units.
Using navin's idea excep that you mount the woofer on the top or bottom of the cabinet, thus making the profile less. Because low freq's have good dispersion, the sound should still be uniform.
20 tangbands 6.1 system
W = tangband with low pass filter
F = tangband all the way
front
WWWF. 3 Ws in series. keep impedance at 6ohms.
you can put 2 Ws rear facing (planet 10's suggestion).
thin tall box. either wall mounted or floor standing.
center
WFW. 2 Ws in series. again nominal impedance stay above 4 ohms. Ws are used to compensate for difraction step and augment bass.
rear (x3) wall mounted.
FWF
F in series by dipole or bipole orientation (possible?).
W top firing.
since rears are wall mounted difraction step is limited so 1 W can compensate for this.
as far as more conventional drivers are concerned the reason I dont like to use woofers on top is that my wife likes to put platers etc on top of speakers. the bottom is fine. remember you have to use 2-3" spikes to let them breath. If your front and rear baffles are the same width i would suggest rear. this allows you to tune the bass a bit better (moving the cabinet front and back) and also compensates for difraction step etc.
W = tangband with low pass filter
F = tangband all the way
front
WWWF. 3 Ws in series. keep impedance at 6ohms.
you can put 2 Ws rear facing (planet 10's suggestion).
thin tall box. either wall mounted or floor standing.
center
WFW. 2 Ws in series. again nominal impedance stay above 4 ohms. Ws are used to compensate for difraction step and augment bass.
rear (x3) wall mounted.
FWF
F in series by dipole or bipole orientation (possible?).
W top firing.
since rears are wall mounted difraction step is limited so 1 W can compensate for this.
as far as more conventional drivers are concerned the reason I dont like to use woofers on top is that my wife likes to put platers etc on top of speakers. the bottom is fine. remember you have to use 2-3" spikes to let them breath. If your front and rear baffles are the same width i would suggest rear. this allows you to tune the bass a bit better (moving the cabinet front and back) and also compensates for difraction step etc.
Try the Vifa Big A/V
Have you checked out the Vifa Big A/V kit yet? I built one a couple months ago, and have been VERY happy with it. I upgraded the tweeter a little bit, but the x-over and bass drivers that come with the kit are excellent. I got mine from Madisoun. I don't know if anyone else has them.
Hope this helps,
Zach
Have you checked out the Vifa Big A/V kit yet? I built one a couple months ago, and have been VERY happy with it. I upgraded the tweeter a little bit, but the x-over and bass drivers that come with the kit are excellent. I got mine from Madisoun. I don't know if anyone else has them.
Hope this helps,
Zach
here's a ht CC I've just finished...
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHT.jpg
actually pics of the finished speaker in a couple of days.
Uses 2 x Vifa M13SG09-16, D26NC15-06, TC0869-08
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/HexHT.jpg
actually pics of the finished speaker in a couple of days.
Uses 2 x Vifa M13SG09-16, D26NC15-06, TC0869-08
If you want to be selfish use the home theatre setup alone and set your system to have a phantom centre channel- timbre matching problem solved- its an interesting experiment anyway!
as long as you sit in the sweet spot
as long as you sit in the sweet spot
george a said:
This is how i deal with the centre channel... with speakers that image well, the CC is actually a step backwards (at least in my room)
dave
Timbre matching
How do you match timbres? What is/are the most important characteristic of a speaker that determines the 'sound'?
Of course it is always best to use the same units throughout. But in my case, I plan to build €900/pair main speakers (Visaton Topas ). Listening in stereo for me is 10 times more important than in surround. So I only want to spend €50-100 per extra channel. I dont need high fidelity sound when watching a dvd, but a close match between the speakers would be nice.
BTW the visaton topas has a magnetostatic tweeter and a titanium woofer. And (maybe) surprisingly a very warm and rich sound.
How do you match timbres? What is/are the most important characteristic of a speaker that determines the 'sound'?
Of course it is always best to use the same units throughout. But in my case, I plan to build €900/pair main speakers (Visaton Topas ). Listening in stereo for me is 10 times more important than in surround. So I only want to spend €50-100 per extra channel. I dont need high fidelity sound when watching a dvd, but a close match between the speakers would be nice.
BTW the visaton topas has a magnetostatic tweeter and a titanium woofer. And (maybe) surprisingly a very warm and rich sound.
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